Jump to content

Old School Inlaying, With Hand Tools.


Recommended Posts

I was just sort of wondering, how would i go about inlaying things with hand tools? i never really considered it, cost being a reason, not being able to afford a CNC mill and all. but, could i do it with hand tools? how would i do it? i would sort of like to inlay a guitar im building, with a lighter wood into the darker wood.

so, how do i do it the old fashioned way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you most definitly do not need big expensive tools for good inlays. all you really need is a dremel with a router base attachment. with that, you can do it all. or even a regular router with a really small bit.

i mean, without electricity at all.

i would assume you were amish, if you didnt post that on the internet, but why would you want to do that?

inlays (for me at least) take long enough already;

the reason youd want to use a dremal/router, is the becasue your trying to acheive their very motion, a plunge and hollow type of deal;

what are you trying to inlay?

the fingerboard? definatley want a dremal;

a body? if its big enough and its like a top or something, you could cut it out with a coping saw and inlay prior to gluing;

but even then, your gonna want a starting hole that would take an electric drill (technically)

dremel 60$

base (if bought) 50$

an inaly that dosent look like its sitting in a puddle of epoxy; priceless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can do it with an exacto knife to cut your outside pattern. Depending on the wood this will take a lot of blades (especially if your inlaying dense fretboard wood)as you have to slice down the full depth of the inlay. Then you need a couple deadly sharp chisels, and you best know how to use them. You will be wishing for a dremel if you do much inlay at all. Personally I would never do it this way unless there was no option.

You also need a jewlers saw and a bunch of 3/0(this is the size blade I prefer at least) for shell or #2 works well for most wood. A selection of small jewlers files. A work board with a small V cut in the end to help cut your inlay. You will want to design your pattern (photo copies are handy so you can cut out each individual shape if you build multi piece inlays). CA works well to glue up multi piece inlays. Either Epoxy or CA works when glueing the inlay in place. Epoxy does not ahear to epoxy well, so when you need to drop fill bubbles or gaps CA is a better way to go.

A book on the process or a video would go a long way if you are serious about wanting to do inlay work.

Peace,Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe i shouldn't go all out hand tool on it, then.

but, a dremel can't make angles. can it?

Buy or borrow a book on basic inlay techniques. Maybe there is something on you tube? Sounds like you need to see or read through the process.

Good luck,

Rich

I think most people do use hand tools but remove the bulk of the wood for the inlay using a dremel router setup and a small bit. You cant make square corners or even a long thin taper shape using a round bit. Probably back in the day's they used a small router plane when there was few electric tools but cost is an issue with buying proper hand tools vs a dremel. You could use a foster bit to remove bulk but the probability of mistakes is increased over a router. I dont know why a CNC machine was mentioned becsause thats for production work and is beyond the scope of 99% of the forum members.

Edited by Woodenspoke
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i happen to have access to a laser CNC machine, and the know how on how to program it, but i don't want to do that...

:D

Then maybe you should forgo any tools at all and just use your teeth :D

(If you do go "all-handtools" please post a tutorial. I'm interested to see how this stuff was done back in the day.)

good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Inlay isn't a new art form. If they could do it before we even had electricty, we can do it now. I don't know that I'd advise it, but it's very do-able. We have better tools than they did back then and we like them for a reason.

To cut out the cavity by hand (no electricity) is extremely possible. Using the "all X-Axto" method will take you forever. You'll definately want to scribe the outline deeply with the knife. After that, it's all hammer & chisel. Practice on some scrap before trying it on the real thing. If you go this route, PLEASE take lots of pics and show us how you manage.

For cutting out the pattern, the jewler's saw is the way to go. You'll want a board with a V cut out to work with as well. This kit from Stew-Mac will work, but it certainly isn't necessary. Any thin piece with a cutout clamped to your workbench will do the trick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i happen to have access to a laser CNC machine, and the know how on how to program it, but i don't want to do that...

I have used a standard CNC for metal but I am wondering how you get proper depth control with a laser on a fingerboard. I would certainly use it to cut the inlay if I had one, since cutting inlay is the hard part of the whole job.

The easier and more accurate the better I like it. It's the results that matter not how I got there.

The bottom line is a Dremel is cheap. You don't need a special high priced router base from SM to do the work as long as you can see the line. Carbide resharpened dental bits are a good choice for the Dremel. Make a base on the Laser.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...