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Nitro On Plastic-coating.

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I'm in the middle of my first paint job (build number 2), spraying nitro from rattle cans. And I have to say that I'm liking the results so far.

For my first build (all-mahogany carved body) I rubbed-on 50% thinned Plastic-Coating, without any pore filling for an oil-like effect.

I'm now considering refinishing this one to something more protective and durable, like commercial all-mahogany electrics usually sport.

Iwill be sanding the current finish off, but I can't do anything with what's inside the pores. So, questions for the more experienced finishers here:

- Will a pore-filler like Rustin's work at all with some plastic-coating in the pores ??

- Suppose I don't fill the pores at all, will nitro still adhere well to the sanded wood AND the pores with some of the original finish still inside ??

Thanks for the help.

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Plastic Coating will have a shine that's at least as good as nitro, and at least as durable, so I'd just spray on a few more coats and/or pore fill with epoxy and apply finish over it.

Fill before you finish, though.

Hello Mattia,

I know that Setch has had great results with the stuff, but I "still" don't have any spraying equipment. And I am really interested in using something else.

I'm pretty confident (now that I have sprayed my current build) that I can get a decent finish using rattle-can nitro, that is why I wanted to move in that direction.

Rattle-can Poly-Urethane is another option available to me (GuitarSupplies.com), mybe PU will have a better affinity with the PC ??

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I just noticed you're in Europe.

Try: Laverdure --you'll want the 'vernis - laques' catalog. They're pretty quick to respond to emails, and of course you can call them.

In the catalog you'll find nitro in spray cans ('bombes') --they have tinted lacquer too.

They're the best cans I've found --the pressure is excellent and stays really consistent through 80 percent of the can or so. And the lacquer itself is excellent, flows really well, very little orange peel, polishes up really nicely.

You won't need spray equipment with these -- on the other hand, I'll be picking up a rig soon, since in the long run, it will work out as less expensive that way.

Or course, Laverdure has every other kind of finish too.

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I've done epoxy grain fills over a sealer coat of PC with no issues, so I imagine you could sandback the wiped-on PC, then grain fill with clear epoxy and overcoat with nitro. As always, test on scrap first.

Thanks for the replies.

When you say clear epoxy, do you mean something specific or just the usual, available everywhere, garden variety ??

The clear epoxy I'm using for the inlay work is the one I bought from StewMac some time ago, and it seems rather thick and too fast-curing for pore filling...

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