ToddW Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Just found these sites. Thought they were worth listing here. Prices look good to me. May already be listed, and if so, sorry for the repeat. http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-cr.htm http://www.goodwindskites.com/merch/list.s...solidflatcarbon Regards, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Hey Erik, The prices are simply so much lower than Stew Mac that even with sepparate S&H, I saved money. 48" for 14.75 instead of 18.75 for 24" . . . Actually ordered some of the .25"x.25" ones to put under those fretboards you're working on for me. Figured 1/4" depth means I don't need to worry about carving through to the rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Hey Erik, The prices are simply so much lower than Stew Mac that even with sepparate S&H, I saved money. 48" for 14.75 instead of 18.75 for 24" . . . Actually ordered some of the .25"x.25" ones to put under those fretboards you're working on for me. Figured 1/4" depth means I don't need to worry about carving through to the rods. Yessir, they certainly are less expensive than SM. I recall hearing about the kite shop on the OLF, but just never took the time to check it out. So thanks for that! Just keep the CF rods far enough from the edges of the neck and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicko_Lps Posted June 13, 2008 Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 Guys,i really wonder why you use carbon fiber rods.. Can anybody explain the reason please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted June 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 Hi Nicko, It makes the neck slightly stiffer and some people say in eliminates dead spots. I don't know about the latter, but I figure I put so much time into a single guitar, that the slight insurance the rods offer to twisting or warping of the wood make it worth a little extra effort and the $15 it cost. If the neck is going to move a lot, I'm sure the rods won't entirely stop it, but I think they will resist smaller movements. I also like laminates, so maybe it's just that I'm a fan of overkill. Best, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 13, 2008 Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 Not only what ToddW said, but the CF rods are also much more stable over time than wood....ergo, your neck will be more stable over the long haul when it evolves from being a "new build" to a "vintage instrument". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicko_Lps Posted June 13, 2008 Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 I dont really know if that i was true but someone told me that after years carbon fiber rods will fed up?something like that. Also in my first build i used a mahogany bubinga birch bubinga mahogany neck(each laminate is 6mm) and on top of it 5mm ebony fretboard 25.5" scale. The thickness is 2,5cm at 1st fret and 2,4cm at 18th fret.From 1 to 5 fret is C shape and then goes from soft V to hard V. That fretboard with absolutly no tension on the trussrod does not bend when in tune and does not detunes. Wood seems to hold well at that thickness with those hardwood laminates. You are using that fiber rods for thinner fretboards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Carbon rods will what? You mean fold up? Wood bends and deforms over time, inherent to the beast. May be minimal, may be more. CF does not and springs right back to the shape it was in before. Yes, a neck can be made so stiff you need a dual action rod (only happened to me once, though), but I'll keep using them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 You are using that fiber rods for thinner fretboards? Stability and going thinner. I just finished a 4-string bass with 3-piece maple neck, CF rods and wenge fretboard at ~0.77" to 0.85" thickness. Plays very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicko_Lps Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Carbon rods will what? You mean fold up? Wood bends and deforms over time, inherent to the beast. May be minimal, may be more. CF does not and springs right back to the shape it was in before. Yes, a neck can be made so stiff you need a dual action rod (only happened to me once, though), but I'll keep using them. I would like to see a pic of how work with these CF rods Mattia if possible.I have a gibson style truss rod but instead of 4-5mm curve below the 7th fret i have 1cm curve,that way it bends the neck easy.The thing i was telling you is that when the guitar is in tune the strings do not pull up the neck,without tension at the truss rod it gives me 1mm curve in the 7th,when pressing down 1st and 24th fret.The frets are ok installed and i have no rattle.In 4th and 5th fret if i use a split coil i notice some buzz small but noticeable,with humbuckers is not noticeable.Im planning to leave the neck and see if it finally curve from the weight of the strings and then level the frets because i havent had done any leveling yet.You guys agree with that?The fact that the neck does not bend with the weight of the strings is considered good or bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 I install two rods parallel to (with minor tapering, following the edges of the fingerboard) the truss rod - see Stewmac.com's page on CF rods, under 'instructions', for how exactly. I use dual action rods exclusively, presicely because of the fact that sometimes, rarely, the neck is too stiff for the strings to pull relief into. 1mm strikes me as a pretty large amount of relief at 7th fret, though; I shoot for somewhere between no relief and 0.5 mm (average for low action: 0.2-0.3mm) at 7th. Too much relief will lead to more rattle, as will too little relief. Whether a neck bends or not under string tension is neither good nor bad, at least, unless you only have a single action rod and need the string tension to add a little relief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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