bluesy Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 As I mentioned in my other recent post, I am going to use white acrylic (automotive paint). I as wondering if people ALWAYS use a clear coat, or are alternatives possible, such as sanding, polishing, and maybe, waxing the white colour coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Not sure how much waxing would help, but a clear coat does not have to be used. But the paint will scratch, chip and fade quicker. Any of the Fender Olympic White guitars did not have a clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Not sure how much waxing would help, but a clear coat does not have to be used. But the paint will scratch, chip and fade quicker. Any of the Fender Olympic White guitars did not have a clear coat. I guess I only mentioned waxing from the point of view of maximising the gloss, if gloss was what was desired, as compared to a full-gloss clear finish as the alternative. Anyway, I need to consider if I really want clear over the top for myself then. Maybe just a nice thick colour layer would be good. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foggy Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 As I mentioned in my other recent post, I am going to use white acrylic (automotive paint). I as wondering if people ALWAYS use a clear coat, or are alternatives possible, such as sanding, polishing, and maybe, waxing the white colour coat? In the simplist of terms it all depends on the paint that you're using. Some paints are specifically designed be applied and then sealed with a lacquer or finish coat (these are commonly known as 'basecoat' paints), other paints are mixed specifically as one application paints and don't need any finishing after application. If you use a 2 pack basecoat white paint (designed for a lacquer finish coat) and then don't seal it in, it'll soon look very 'second hand' and I wouldn't imagine it'll last very long without the protection of lacquer. As for alternatives to clearcoating base paints - have to admit I don't know having only ever used lacquers over paints. Even if you're spraying from rattlecans I'm fairly sure you'll be able to find an 'all in one' white paint that doesn't need any laquer coat to seal it in, I'd have thought this was a far better option for a straightforward white finish. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 The guy who owned my strat before me spray-painted it (over the original finish), presumably with auto acrylic. Since I didn't feel like taking it apart and refinishing it (it plays and sounds great and never goes out of tune) I was able to polish the parts that show to a fairly reasonable gloss. I'd recommend the micromesh pads for that. But yeah, the paint will be pretty fragile -- it seems to me that the acrylic stuff is much more fragile than nitro in that respect. But it's possible that the acrylic polishes up better than the nitro (not lacquer, the color coat). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Even if you're spraying from rattlecans I'm fairly sure you'll be able to find an 'all in one' white paint that doesn't need any laquer coat to seal it in, I'd have thought this was a far better option for a straightforward white finish. Jim I am thinking that most automotive "touch-up" paints in rattle cans, are intended to be used without a clear coat over the top. My test piece now has a good thickness of just such a paint. I will let it cure for a day or so, and see how it comes up with some sanding/polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 The guy who owned my strat before me spray-painted it (over the original finish), presumably with auto acrylic. Since I didn't feel like taking it apart and refinishing it (it plays and sounds great and never goes out of tune) I was able to polish the parts that show to a fairly reasonable gloss. I'd recommend the micromesh pads for that. Haven't found a source for micro-mesh pads here in Australia. Do Bunnings sell them? I need to look a bit harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foggy Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Even if you're spraying from rattlecans I'm fairly sure you'll be able to find an 'all in one' white paint that doesn't need any laquer coat to seal it in, I'd have thought this was a far better option for a straightforward white finish. Jim I am thinking that most automotive "touch-up" paints in rattle cans, are intended to be used without a clear coat over the top. My test piece now has a good thickness of just such a paint. I will let it cure for a day or so, and see how it comes up with some sanding/polishing. Yes, you're probably right on that one, it's usually only the metallic finishes that require a lacquer coat out of touch up cans right enough. Just thinking that if you are using rattle cans and you're trying to get a high shine on the finish, as has already been advised by Mickguard micromesh might be your answer, then possibly a really good automotive polish - as it's automotive paint you're using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 The difference if something is hardend or not. There are many 2 part sealers that wouldn't require a clear because they are hardened. Part 2 of these paints is the hardener. But your typical uro basecoat wouldn't hold up becuase they are not hardend. Typically masking tape can make them lift they need the solvents from the clear to bite through and make the whole surface 1 film that is durable. Single stage paints are hardend, most stuff in a rattlecan is hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 The difference if something is hardend or not. There are many 2 part sealers that wouldn't require a clear because they are hardened. Part 2 of these paints is the hardener. But your typical uro basecoat wouldn't hold up becuase they are not hardend. Typically masking tape can make them lift they need the solvents from the clear to bite through and make the whole surface 1 film that is durable. Single stage paints are hardend when it's two part. If the rattlecan says it doesn't need a clear or mention it then you should be fine without clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.