Geo Posted December 15, 2008 Report Posted December 15, 2008 I'm fixing a guitar that was accidentally sat on. The soundboard received a long crack on the pickguard side, running with the grain. Because of the placement of the crack, the last ~2.5" of the x-brace on the lower bout treble side has come away from the top. I glued the crack in the soundboard. I tried sliding glue under the end of the brace with an index card. I gave it some pressure with a piece of wood wedged between the back and the x-brace. Unfortunately, when I went to test the repair, I still got some flex down there, and I can feel that the x-brace didn't take. The crack is fixed but there's still a fair amount of flexibility down there because of the last 2.5" of the brace being disconnected. Any suggestions? I've built an acoustic but this is my first attempt at repairing one. thanks. Quote
Geo Posted December 16, 2008 Author Report Posted December 16, 2008 Wait, I just answered my own question. I'll use magnets. Quote
Woodenspoke Posted December 16, 2008 Report Posted December 16, 2008 Wait, I just answered my own question. I'll use magnets. You were on the right track in the first place. magnets will not apply enough pressure to move the brace. Here is how I would do it. 1. Clean the underside of the brace of as much glue as you can; top and brace side. 2. a Turn buckle with either wood cauls or friendly plastic will give you a cheap clamp. They do sell longer clamps for these jobs $$$. 3. with the turnbuckle I suggest using some opposing force clamp to keep the top and back secure. As you apply pressure from inside clamp the outside down as well. 4. Make sure the acoustic is at proper moisture content or that the body is properly arched before you start. Hope this helps Quote
Geo Posted December 16, 2008 Author Report Posted December 16, 2008 Thanks woodenspoke.... I'll investigate what you suggested. I'm surprised magnets wouldn't be strong enough. I have some pretty strong magnets. Also, the brace doesn't really need "moving". It will sit flush with the top on its own, it's just disconnected. But perhaps I misunderstood you. Just to clarify: essentially, you're suggesting to clamp the box outside and support it from the inside. Quote
jammy Posted December 17, 2008 Report Posted December 17, 2008 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamps,_...epair_Jack.html Something along those lines. Quote
Geo Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Posted December 17, 2008 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamps,_...epair_Jack.html Something along those lines. Brilliant. I'll fabricate something. Let's face it, that should NOT cost $8. Quote
Woodenspoke Posted December 17, 2008 Report Posted December 17, 2008 Thanks woodenspoke.... I'll investigate what you suggested. I'm surprised magnets wouldn't be strong enough. I have some pretty strong magnets. Also, the brace doesn't really need "moving". It will sit flush with the top on its own, it's just disconnected. But perhaps I misunderstood you. Just to clarify: essentially, you're suggesting to clamp the box outside and support it from the inside. Correct, use something on the outside so you don't over expand the turnbuckle and make a bigger mess. I would lightly clamp a wood cam clamp onto the body, but most people do not have cam clamps. Some soft material to protect the top and back, a small 6" clamp and wood blocks to distribute the weight. Lightly clamp and then tighten the inside turnbuckle. I usually cut off the hook and loop on the turnbuckle and epoxy the cauls onto the threads (drill a hole first). Just like Sm does in the link below by Jammy. They probably thread it on but its harder to do because one side is a reverse thread. Quote
Geo Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Posted December 18, 2008 Thanks very much for all the help and advice! Quote
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