Saddle Slot

[jaycee]

I have Cumpiano's book and I understand how he works out where to place the saddle slot. What I would like to know are the different methods you guys use so I can cross reference the idea's and see which way works best for me.

[Daniel Sorbera]

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

Just click the button for acoustic guitar. It will tell you exactly how much compensation you need. That sucker is accurate too, all my guitars come out with perfect intonation.

[Woodenspoke]

I just copied this jig from Stumac with some modifications. Set it and forget it, that way I don't have to think or wonder if I measured wrong. Took the compensation specs adjustments from the tool instructions. Worked well on my last acoustic, will probably use it as well on my next electric to locate the bridge.

[jaycee]

Nice one guys, I'll be able to cross reference my results now and make sure I get it right

I just checked my Tanglewood and the scale length is 640mm, the saddle is at 640 mm on the treble E side, using the Stewmac calc it is more or less 2mm to close to the nut, but I guess that's where compensated saddles come in.

Edited February 21, 2009 by jaycee

[truckjohn]

Nice one guys, I'll be able to cross reference my results now and make sure I get it right

I just checked my Tanglewood and the scale length is 640mm, the saddle is at 640 mm on the treble E side, using the Stewmac calc it is more or less 2mm to close to the nut, but I guess that's where compensated saddles come in.

Don't over think it too much. The Tanglewood company may have a messd up bridge gluing jig....

Carefully check the intonation on your Tanglewood with a good tuner -- it may be off.

I have seen many many factory guitars (Including Martins) with messed up intonation because they didn't add

the well known 0.150" to the scale length to get the saddle right.

On your build coming up....

I think it is a little easier if you first make up the bridge or use a Factory bridge -- then you can mark up

the exact position based on the dimensions of the bridge you have.... rather than marking up a bridge

position... then ending up with the intonation 1/16" off because the bridge was cut a little differently than "Theoretical"

If you already have your bridge -- it will also help get your bridge plate in the right position.

I used Cumpiano's method and then measured off a Pre-made bridge -- just measured it out with a set of Calipers

and a good machinists scale (Ruler) and marked a very light pencil outline on the top of the soundboard for the bridge.

Bridge glue up was uneventful and the intonation was dead on.

Good luck

John

[jaycee]

Thanks Truck, I have been fretting (no pun intended) over this a little bit, but with the other guys input as well I am pretty sure it will go well.

Whilst I have your attention guys, being that you have made acoustics, can you tell me what you think of this idea I really want to do it. My only reservation is that the tension will be to much and that a glue joint may not be sufficient.

I would set it up so that the lighter strings are coming through the back of the bridge and the heavier ones using the bridge pins, (which would also act as an anchor for the bridge as well)