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Drak 'the Devil's Right Hand'


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Actually, I am right now gluing up the 2nd raked shark from your Bubunga Erik :D .

I haven't come up with a name for it yet tho...

I was able to cut your booked halves set caddy-corner to caddy corner and get two V tops from it.

The second one is getting glued over a Mahogany body and is clamped up as I type.

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OK, let's pick the story up.

Here are a few shots from what I took a few years ago when I started this one.

Bubinga top over Walnut body, entire guitar slightly dyed w/ cherry red, then lacquered over.

The dye really helped the Bubinga and Walnut blend together nicely.

No grain filling, which is happening with successive coats of lacquer then sanding back, which is what these pics are showing, the original dye, the original lacquer coats, and the initial sanding back, being very careful NOT to sand back into the base and ruin the dye job.

WALNUTV001.jpg

WALNUTV003.jpg

WALNUTV005.jpg

WALNUTV006.jpg

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Any reason you are using lacquer build up and sand back to grain fill on this one, or is it just the mood you were in?

I'm curious about that aswell... as I'm using the same method and I know where I got the idea from...

Mockups (black, good choice!) look great, the switch ring... well... no, I don't like it. And as we all see the top wood looks great, what about the back? Any more pictures of that?

Edited by SD83
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The hardware is just for the pics, the 3-way toggler is the only one I had lying around, and the pkp rings might get lost for a direct-mount method instead, I just wanted to give you the idea of what it will look like with what parts I had here already.

I mean hey, that's what mockups are for! :D

I really can't remember why I filled pores with lacquer.

I actually do that quite often whether I want to or not, as you have to do it that way when doing a dyed/bursted Maple top,

which I do a lot of.

So I'm completely used to doing it and basically, since I dyed it, my mind probably subconsciously was doing it just like I do Maple tops, as it was dyed the same basic way (right onto the wood).

I want to have a closer look at the pores, I was wondering what it would look like with black epoxy filled pores, but I'm not sure the pattern of the blackened pores will 'go along' with the natural pattern of the Bubinga itself.

I will inspect my pics after I post this, I am thinking out loud right now...

You can see in the last pic I have another one started sitting right next to it from the same piece of Bubinga, and was considering that option for the new one, it might make it look quite a bit more interesting.

A really super-cool look is black epoxy filled Paduak.

I never see anyone do it, but I did it once many years ago, Paduak having really large pores, the black filled pores looked absolutely killer against the red of the Paduak.

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You know everyone is going to be scrolling back up before they finish your post to see how black epoxy will look in the grain now. Looking back at the pictures I don't think the black epoxy will work with that grain. The pores seem to stay pretty straight, but the figuring swirls. It looks like it might clash.

Direct mounted pickups could look pretty sweet.

Not to jump into another build already, but I am guessing that other one has been bleached?

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