In Need Of Clear Finish That Does Not Change Wood Color

[Rocket]

I want to keep the look of my maple fretboard as natural as possible and the tests on scrap have shown clear enamel, boiled linseed oil, Minwax Polycrylic even Thompsons water seal to make the wood tone change. I learned CAB-Acrylic lacquer might be what I'm looking for but I can't find small quantities - I don't want a gallon of it. Any place that sells smaller amounts or have ideas for other finishes that don''t change the wood tone ?

[ihocky2]

Automotive poly's don't change the color. Another one that has a growing fan base is Sherwin Williams conversion varnish. Basically anything listed as water white is not going to change the color. Even then it is only to an extent. It will always change the color slightly, raw maple with a water white finish will look like you wiped it with mineral spirits. Ever so slightly darker and more definition to the grain.

[Moth]

Unfortunately, wood normally looks a little different when you finish it. Whatever color the wood is when its wet is the color its going to be when you finish it with a clear finish. However, if you're okay with that, then I'd say that pretty much any water or alchohol based finish (shellac, polycrylic etc.) will work out for you. Oil based finishes will yellow with time.

[WezV]

+1. its a simple fact that a raw wood surface will reflect light differently to a finished surface - raw wood always looks paler than finished wood, unless you leave it raw - then it ends up darker and grubbier

i would go with the lightest of the ones you tried

[spudler]

If you don't have any poly on it you can try some Rust-oleum Specialty Laquer #1906830 Clear or I have had good luck with Rust-oleum Crystal Clear Enamel #7701 Cyrstal Clear. I have used it on my current Ibanez body I play daily and I just did the headstock on my project guitar. It dries quite fast so you can put on 4 or 5 coats in 30-45 min. I usually wait 6-10 hrs before I wet sand to smooth and make sure surface is staying flat. I use a 3M rubber sanding block and 2000 grit sandpaper to do the wet sanding. I dip the paper in water then dab it a little so I just have enough to sand without having water getting into areas I dont want it in. I would do 2-3 thin coats then sand, clean and repeat. I also have noticed that Duplicolor Grease and wax remover works awesome for wiping area just prior to painting or top coating.

[Rocket]

Rust-O-Leum Crytal Clear Enamel was one of my tests, and it does change the shade of the wood. I used it on an unstained, maple/maple Allparts neck and that neck is very light colored, even lighter finished than this other neck I want to do is raw. Which surprised me when I sprayed a scrap piece from my raw neck and it darkened. So I guess maple can come in different shades.