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Walnut/mahogany Lap Steel-


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so- i shot 3 more thin coats on this- and now I know something is not right. I started to sand this again- but thought I would take a photo and show the group. The laquer has definitely sunk in- but more now than before (how is that possible??) I am shooting McFaddens- check that- this last batch is Seagrave (last 3 coats)- I have never had this happen before. I swear to you people this was level- there were a few spots that had some minor issues- but this section of the body was dead level- now- its like -well- see for yourself. Anyone else ever had this issue? I used McFaddens sealer (x2 coats) and about 10 laquer coats ( heavy but sanded back) to fill. There are probably 9 or so coats (thin) on top of that. I was under the impression that Seagrave was just a name change- not a formula change- so I should be using the "same" product. anybody have this issue?

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I hear ya Wez- but what I dont understand as this guitar sat hanging in my basement since last November with a pretty much level finish (minor issues noted previously)- and now- just after light scuff sanding and re-spraying these last 3 coats back around June 25th or 26th- it appears to have sunk in where it didnt previously. I dont get that. It drank in those sealer coats- and the first few laquer coats- but those 9 or 10 laquer coats were basically sanded back/off to leave "filler" in the pores (I dont like grain filler).

Anyway- i guess it doesnt matter- I will be sanding this puppy back hard once again- and starting it over. Maybe it was the last flash coat I used (30% thinner/70 laquer)-maybe that thinner did this. I dont know. Previous coats were approx15% thinner/85% laquer. I just hate getting THIS close to finishing the project and having to step backwards. Ah- such is guitar building.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am pretty sure the last "flashcoat" i did was the cause of the laquer sinking -I had so much thinner in that last coat it just melted that laquer on the surface and it just sunk in. Figures this would happen- I hate grain filling- and after reading about people who dont grain fill- and just flood the pores with heavy coats and sand back- I have been doing that the last few times- well- this time it bit me. Probably not an issue on maple or similiar- but these pores were pretty big- and deep- and I should have known better- lesson learned.

Here is a pic after sanding back heavy from the last pic above- 3 heavy coats- and just starting wet sanding with 800 grit. most of the pores are filled back in. The lines you see are from the paper clogging- at this point I am sanding the crap out of it and dont really care about it- just want to remove most of what I sprayed and leave the build up in the pores. I ended up drop filling that big old pore in the middle

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heres a shot after another 5 lighter coats. The force is in balance.Little bit of orange peel- and sprayer spit (I ran out on the last coat) Next time I will probably try the z-poxy that I am reading so many people are using to grain fill. I just REALLY hate grain filling.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

So the laquer has cured long enough on this one- time to wire it up. I was originally going to use a P-90 in this- but have decided to use a Seymour Duncan P-Rails instead. I have wanted to try this for a while- this seems like a good project to do it with. This pickup has a p-90 sitting next to a single coil "rail" pickup- so you can switch between the rail, the p-90 and then both together for a humbucker. We'll see how it turns out.

I need to make a decision about the cap- wiring instructions show a .047- and the old bag of caps reveilled that I have the following-

1)-unknown cap- only marking is .047 on end cap is black with brown, purple and yellow stripes

2)- Sprague Vitamin Q

3) Cornell Dubilier (I am thinking about using this one- its the only one I have)

4) Orange Drop.

I am too lazy/dont have enough time to set up a test station and try them all out- I am thinking about the Cornell Dubilier- has anyone used these before? I typically will use the orange drop- only because I bought a boatload of them and have them on hand. My brother gifted me a bag full of misc caps a few years back- and I pulled these others out of that bag. Typically my ears arent that fine tuned that I can hear "real" differences on these- usually you can hear the difference on some cheap ass ceramic caps (like stew mac stuff) vs a decent cap-anyone have an opinion on these caps?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Your best bet with those caps is to wire in a couple of alligator leads in place of the component.

This will allow you to quickly clip each cap into place and see how each effects the filter's curve and center.

No signal flows through the cap or pot on the way to the amp, they just shunt part of the signal to ground.

However, each component does have a character in the way it shunts that signal to ground, so try them all and see which sounds/feels (actuates with the right curve) for that particular instrument and your particular taste.

BTW, your build is coming out beautifully and looks hot hot hot!

If you still run into pore problems in the finish, you can sand back a little, screed down some Z-Poxy, block sand flat with 400 and shoot the rest of your nitro.

Nitro shrinks a lot as it dries and off gasses, so I think your "flashcoat" was simply ultra thin and you simply noticed what was already there.

When I sand with 600, I see the scratches right through the next dried coat of nitro that has been shot wet enough to be just short of sagging.

Kind of freaked me out the first time I noticed, lol!

Edited by headstack
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