Linny Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 This is my third build, the first is finished and the second is at the finishing stage. This is a laminated neck blank before i glued it up, sapele, birdseye maple, bubinga, birdseye maple, sapele. Doing my best to plane this lot flat. Cutting the headstock angle, i think i need a bandsaw or a big tenon saw Planed flat and square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I made up a 1mm thick veneer using my new Jet 16/32! Truss rod slot was routed on the router table, i then inlayed a piece of maple over the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) Ebony Veneer. With the little natty truss rod slot access. The jig to make the access hole. Ebony Board to match. Edited November 22, 2010 by Linny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) I cut the neck and fingerboard taper today and started to shape the headstock. Wasting material at the back of the neck with a handsaw and chisels. Edited November 23, 2010 by Linny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) Bandsaw fairy still hasn't sorted me out yet. I glued a piece of maple on to the back of the of the headstock. Edited November 23, 2010 by Linny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 I REALLY like your truss rod hole jig! Lookin' good and props on the hand tools skills! They are often overlooked by electric builder IMO. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 I REALLY like your truss rod hole jig! Lookin' good and props on the hand tools skills! They are often overlooked by electric builder IMO. Chris Trust me if i had a bandsaw i would have used that to remove the waste at the back, it all worked out ok in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Board tapered, inlayed and glued on. Still need to shape neck. Body started. Korina top and Cherry back. Not bad for a days work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CainMD Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 i really like this build and i love the killswitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Where is everyone getting these super cool arcade-style switches?!?!!? Chris PS: I agree, a bandsaw would have been more elegant. I was merely commenting that it's good you have the ABILITY to properly use saws, planes, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Where is everyone getting these super cool arcade-style switches?!?!!? Chris PS: I agree, a bandsaw would have been more elegant. I was merely commenting that it's good you have the ABILITY to properly use saws, planes, etc. The switch is from ebay, search for Sanwa. Yea don't worry i took your words as a compliment. I do prefer hand tools where possible to keep noise and dust to a minimum. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Body Finished. Cavity cover made, jack hole drilled, contouring done and battery box routed. I'm really surprised at myself for knockin out the body in just the weekend. Next weekend i will hopeful join the 2 bits together. Cheers Guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Last night i got the neck tenon thinned out and cut to length and today i married the neck to the body, not glued yet though. I squared the mortice instead of rounding the tenon. I recessed the kill switch hole a little. Tenon is still proud of the body by a few mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 This weekend i got the neck profile done, i have been looking at a trapezoid profile for a while and decided to try it for this project. You can read more about it at Rick Toone's website. http://www.ricktoone.com/2010/10/trapezoid...e-geometry.html Its hard to get a good pic of the shape. Basically the neck back is parallel to the fingerboard with a constant thickness of 20mm and because the flat area of the neck is a constant width of 20mm the angle the sides of the neck changes from 50 to 40 degrees, if that makes any sense??? Nice small heal and really easy upper fret access. Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAK Guitars Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Nice, very clean work. What is the back wood? Some kind of cherry? looks really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted December 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Nice, very clean work. What is the back wood? Some kind of cherry? looks really good. Yea its english cherry as far as i know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 So the Sanwa search on eBay worked great. There's literally TONS of choice in this arena. However, my question: How are you wiring it up? It has just two prongs and from the function it was made for, I'm guessing it's only in action when depressed. Ie: You can't wire it as an on/off, merely a momentary kill switch for when it's depressed, and everything comes back on when released again? Or am I missing something? Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Anderson Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 could you please tell us about that trapezoid neck? I wanted to try it, but I canceled it because on Toons' site he said that he put aluminum bar(s) in the neck, and I don't like that aluminum idea. did you use any aluminum bar or just trussrod? cheers!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I'm pretty sure you don't HAVE to put alum bars He just likes that kinda stuff. Actually, if anything, a trapazoidal neck has MORE meat on it than a normal neck and is therefore MORE stiff than a traditionally carved one. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Anderson Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I'm pretty sure you don't HAVE to put alum bars He just likes that kinda stuff. Actually, if anything, a trapazoidal neck has MORE meat on it than a normal neck and is therefore MORE stiff than a traditionally carved one. Chris so, does it mean the neck will be thicker? or "has MORE meat" means less shaping? can I still have 18mm neck thickness with this method? btw, I saw you on another board, you should post your geetar over there, man (mux ) terima kasih Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted December 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I have a stew mac hotrod in there, the neck is 20mm thick from the first fret to where it meets the body. You would need a different rod if you wanted the neck any thinner. In my opinion its the width of the flat part which will give you the feeling of a skinny neck. My neck has a flat of 20mm which is on the bigger side Rick Toone states he uses a width of around 5/8th or 16mm which would give steeper sides which i think would make the neck feel a little slimmer without actually making the neck thinner in the traditional sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Anderson Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 and how about the feel when you're playing it? I mean the edges, do they affect your thumb position or you just feel it like traditional neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Thickness that a neck will allow has a lot of factor going into it. Fretboard thickness, type of truss rod, etc. I can't just answer "yes, you can do a 18mm neck with this." That said, all things equal besides the carve, if you can do a normal carve with the neck in question, you can do a trapezoid carve with it too. And "more meat" means yes, less wood is removed in the carve. I mean, draw out a trapezoid and a C-carve and compute the area. But my guess would be the trap has more cross-sectional area. Chris PS: Ricky, my guitars are on here as well. Not that I know which you're referring to or what other board (I'm on a couple)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Anderson Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Thickness that a neck will allow has a lot of factor going into it. Fretboard thickness, type of truss rod, etc. I can't just answer "yes, you can do a 18mm neck with this." That said, all things equal besides the carve, if you can do a normal carve with the neck in question, you can do a trapezoid carve with it too. And "more meat" means yes, less wood is removed in the carve. I mean, draw out a trapezoid and a C-carve and compute the area. But my guess would be the trap has more cross-sectional area. Chris PS: Ricky, my guitars are on here as well. Not that I know which you're referring to or what other board (I'm on a couple)? I'm talking about TGP and for OP, could you show us (or me, in this case) how to do this trapezoid neck profile, step by step. I might try it in my next build. cheers!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 I dunno which you're referring to Ricky as I haven't finished or posted anything lately since I've been away at school as well as the fact I'm working on a big batch AND the movie how-to following them... so things move extra slow when I do have time to build. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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