icetrey Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 I was wiring in a new killswitch (I've already done one before on the same guitar). It's the Tom Delonge Fender Stratocaster. One pickup and one volume knob. I wired it just like the Fender site says to.Wiring Diagram I wired the killswitch with one side to the ground and one side to the middle prong of the potentiometer. All I got was a lot of buzz and feedback. I bought a new pot and the same thing. Anybody aware of what it could be? Quote
kpcrash Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 just to cover the obvious - have you tested the grouding on what you just installed? I know it sounds silly, but a ground wire coming loose/unset or not being connected properly (cold soldered?) will do that. Quote
borge Posted December 14, 2010 Report Posted December 14, 2010 I was wiring in a new killswitch (I've already done one before on the same guitar). It's the Tom Delonge Fender Stratocaster. One pickup and one volume knob. I wired it just like the Fender site says to.Wiring Diagram Why did you have to wire it like the diagram???? that's how it should've came stock... I wired the killswitch with one side to the ground and one side to the middle prong of the potentiometer. All I got was a lot of buzz and feedback. I bought a new pot and the same thing. Anybody aware of what it could be? When do you get the feedback? when the strings were muted? if so sounds like a microphonic pup, It's very rare for bad wiring to cause feedback. If you have a multimeter you can test alot without even opening the guitar, you can get one for $10 or so, you can pinpoint a fault in seconds that others spend hours changing parts/rewiring/resoldering to find. make sure you have your multimeter set to the correct range and/or try multiple ranges if it isn't auto-ranging: plug a lead in and test & record resistances (taking note of ohms range, some readings will be 1-10 Ohms, some will be 5-15kiloOhms ) of: 1 lead sleeve to machineheads 2 lead tip to machineheads 3 lead sleeve to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate. 4 lead tip to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate. 5 lead tip to sleeve, volumes wide open-should give resistance close to your pup readings when individual pups are selected (via pup switch), resistance should decrease to close to zero as you turn the corresponding volume down. I'll explain what they should be, that may help: 1 lead sleeve to machineheads-close to zero, proves the strings are earthed. 2 lead tip to machineheads-close to the pup resistance (5k-20k) (or the pup pair in parallel if both pups are selected)-proves pup/s in circuit and strings are earthed 3 lead sleeve to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate.-close to zero, proves pup cover is earthed. 4 lead tip to pup covers or if uncovered, the baseplate. close to the pup resistance (or the pup pair in parallel if both pups are selected)-proves pup/s in circuit and cover/s are earthed 5 lead tip to sleeve, volumes wide open-should give resistance close to your pup readings when individual pups are selected (via pup switch), resistance should decrease to close to zero as you turn the corresponding volume down. - proves volume pots are doing what they should. Quote
icetrey Posted December 14, 2010 Author Report Posted December 14, 2010 It did come that way stock, when I thought it might be the potentiometer I put a new one in and had to rewire it all. I don't have a multimeter handy. I'm in collage so it's back home but luckily tomorrow's payday and I can get another one. Thanks for the help, I'll give an update after I get a chance to see what it is. Quote
icetrey Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Posted December 17, 2010 Ok, so I've ran into a few of problems. If you can help with any of them PLEASE do. 1) I've had a multimeter for a while but never learned how to use it. I've Googled and searched but can't find anything that I understand. It's all way too in depth. I have the Innova 3300, if anybody can help me understand how to use it for what I need done it'd be much appreciated. 2) I soldered the ground wire again just to make sure it was connected good, now I only get a buzz when I touch the volume (without the knob, cause I apparently lost it). The potentiometer also has just a little scratchy sound when adjusting the volume but it's brand new from Fender. What could cause that? 3) There is also another bare wire coming from the pickup that's not in the diagram above. There's red & white soldered together, green soldered to the potentiometer, black soldered to far left terminal (back view), here's a diagram that does show the bare wire. There's a lace to have a ground screwed into the body and there's a also a place to run a ground under the bridge. Should the bare wire from the pickup be ran under the bridge? Wiring Diagram #2 I've never had this much trouble before and it's getting frustrating. Thanks ahead for any help. Quote
icetrey Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Posted December 17, 2010 Also, if I hold the metal part of the cord the buzzing stops. If that helps any. Thanks Quote
borge Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 so this is your meter?: http://img.shoppingnexus.com/products/equu...-multimeter.jpg 1) set the meter to the ohms (omega symbol) setting (you will be using the '200' '2000' and '20k ranges mostly) the meter should read 'OL' (stands for over limit) (or maybe 'OC' (open circuit)) when the probes aren't touching OR WHEN THE MEASUREMENT BEING TAKEN IS BEYOND THE LIMIT OF THE CURRENT RANGE - it's important to check at a higher range or your results may be useless. touch the probes together and the meter should go to zero or close to zero. now go through the tests is my post above, ie put one probe on the lead sleeve and other on the machineheads ect ect 2)the test will narrow that down. 3)the bare wire (called 'screen' or 'shield') goes to earth/ground, whether its the back of the pot (usually most convenient) the bridge, the jack sleeve doesn't matter, all these should be earthed and should be electrically identical. Also, if I hold the metal part of the cord the buzzing stops. If that helps any. Thanks Thats normal, your body acts a rather large antennae, attracting noise, when you gain a good earth connection (ie touching the jack sleeve) you are no longer an antennae and the hum will reduce. Quote
icetrey Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Posted December 17, 2010 One more question, to make me sound even more dumb. What do you mean by lead tip and lead sleeve? Quote
icetrey Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Posted December 18, 2010 You do have the right meter, but it only shows "1" (and the different decimal places) when I touch them to anything on the guitar. Only time I can get anything except that is when I touch the two probes together, it shows zero so I know it's working. Quote
icetrey Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Posted December 18, 2010 Ran into new problem. Now there is no buzz unless I touch the strings or something metal. Did a little reading on it and saw that this can happen when the output jack wires get reversed and it's not that. Any ideas? Quote
Tim37 Posted December 18, 2010 Report Posted December 18, 2010 well from what i under stand when mixing a peizo with a magnetic pickup its always best to use some buffers. i was looking at putting peizo saddles in my strat but from the research i did and what i got out of it is that you will need some electronics to get the most out of the guitar. Quote
icetrey Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Posted December 19, 2010 well from what i under stand when mixing a peizo with a magnetic pickup its always best to use some buffers. i was looking at putting peizo saddles in my strat but from the research i did and what i got out of it is that you will need some electronics to get the most out of the guitar. I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. My guitar doesn't use a peizo. Quote
borge Posted December 21, 2010 Report Posted December 21, 2010 One more question, to make me sound even more dumb. What do you mean by lead tip and lead sleeve? Most guitars use a mono/TS jack so ignore the ring. plug a lead in and do the test from the free end of the lead. don't forget this too: the meter should read 'OL' (stands for over limit) (or maybe 'OC' (open circuit)) (EDIT: or in your case ...1) when the probes aren't touching OR WHEN THE MEASUREMENT BEING TAKEN IS BEYOND THE LIMIT OF THE CURRENT RANGE - it's important to check at a higher range or your results may be useless. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.