WiFiGuy Posted January 21, 2011 Report Posted January 21, 2011 Hi, I think this one will be easy, but since it involves a fairly pricey electronic device, I figured I better ask before I do something I may regret. Here goes: I have a Line6 POD XT that won't turn on. It's on / off switch is a rocker switch that I think may be bad. The switch has two "legs" or contacts that are soldered to the device's main board. When the switch is in the ON position, I would think that there should be continuity between the two contacts but there is not. Is it possible that I could simply solder a jumper wire across these two contacts and then power the device on / off by plugging / unplugging the power supply either at the wall or at the power input jack on the POD? There is continuity to each leg of the switch from the stero type power jack. The middle pin inside this jack connects to one leg while the side or sleeve of the jack connects to the other leg on the switch. I'm hesitant to try jumpering this since I don't want to fry the ICs on the unit and then lose my $300 investment in the gizmo--it's actually pretty cool to play around with. Line6 has no tech support whatsoever and cannont or won't answer my repeated questions about this switch. Any help of advice that you can give would be greatly appreciated. Quote
Ripthorn Posted January 21, 2011 Report Posted January 21, 2011 A typical rocker switch is little more than making a bridge between the two legs. You could do the jumper and probably be just fine. But don't hold me personally responsible. But virtually all the time a power switch is an spst for the positive voltage to the circuit. Quote
WiFiGuy Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks very much, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Of course if I do try this and it does wreck the device, I would the responsible party. By asking on this forum, I was just curious to see if anyone else shared in my assessment of the problem. Here's another quick question: The power supply used for this device outputs 9vAC@200mA, would 22 gauge wire be OK for the jumper? Thanks Quote
Strato-Master Posted January 21, 2011 Report Posted January 21, 2011 I would just try to find a replacement switch soldering isn't hard there is a ton of info around the internet on how to do it. Here is a couple tutorials I found one through google the other through the forum search function. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ http://www.kingbass.com/soldering101.html Here is a website to buy components. http://www2.mouser.com/Home.aspx You would be looking for a single pole single throw rocker (SPST) switch http://www2.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Rocker-Switches-Paddle-Switches/_/N-5g2q?Keyword=rocker&FS=True Others on here could probably give a better opinion but I think jumping with 22AWG should be ok. (Scroll down) http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Hope this info helps! Quote
Mender Posted January 22, 2011 Report Posted January 22, 2011 ...The middle pin inside this jack connects to one leg while the side or sleeve of the jack connects to the other leg on the switch... Whoa there. If the power input from the jack is connected to the switch legs in the way you describe, bridging the two pins will create a dead short across the power supply! Have you removed the switch completely from the circuit board? You may find more contact points underneath the switch itself. First thing to do though, before you mess around with the PodXT, make sure it is the correct power supply for the PodXT. You say yours is 9v AC 200ma. It should be 9v AC 2000ma. Assuming you mis-typed the details, and it is the correct power supply, check that it is actually working, because obviously, if the power supply isn't working, the PodXT won't switch on. Quote
WiFiGuy Posted January 22, 2011 Author Report Posted January 22, 2011 Thanks Strato-Master, here's a follow up: I de-soldered the switch and removed it last night. I was hoping for a part number that I could look up but there was only specification re voltage and milliamps on the side. I did some online searches with the numbers I pulled off the housing but wasn't able come up with any real matches. I did check Mouser's site (I buy stuff from them already) and scrolled through about 50 pages of switches and again didn't see the one I need. So...I went the easy route and jumpered the switch contacts on the board and it worked. I'll plug the hole in the case with a small piece of plastic and I should be good to go. Just a note to any of you who use Line6 products, they're quite breakable so treat them with care. If you do have a hardware problem, tech support for these type questions is non-existent. Thanks Quote
Strato-Master Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 No problem Glad to hear you got it working. Quote
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