wisdom727 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I've started a headless neck-through build using the Steinberger-clone fixed bridge and headpiece from JCustom Headless Research. Any suggestions on how to ground the bridge? The strings will be electrically connected via a zero-fret, but I don't see a good spot to ground one of the saddles or tuners. Also, of note for anyone else planning to use that headpiece: The truss rod access hole is very close to where the neck plane 'shelf' is (assuming a 1/4" thick fretboard). This headpiece is intended to match specific Steinberger-style necks. So I will have to angle the headpiece downward to line up with the location of my Stew-Mac Hot Rod adjuster, centered ~8.5mm below the neck plane surface. (Build photos still to come in the In Progress forum.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I would just clear a spot underneath where one of the baseplate screws is and run my ground wire under the bridge and stick it in the screw hole. The saddle set screws will cut into the baseplate enough you should be fine. I looked into these bridges and they are cast correct? Having hollows in the baseplate (not milled out of solid block). How is the quality? How long did it take to ship to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks, RAD. I will start with a wire in one of the base-plate screw holes and check for any buzz. I might need to scrape off some plating underneath the saddle set screws - TBD. Yes, the bridge seems to be good quality. It's cast with hollows on the bottom -- it's a heavy sucker. Here's a pic: I ordered it on eBay late one Thursday night. It arrived at my door by FedEx the following Tuesday morning. Amazingly fast. Of course, I got a FedEx invoice a few weeks later for the import duty, tax, and processing fee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks, RAD. I will start with a wire in one of the base-plate screw holes and check for any buzz. I might need to scrape off some plating underneath the saddle set screws - TBD. Yes, the bridge seems to be good quality. It's cast with hollows on the bottom -- it's a heavy sucker. Here's a pic: I ordered it on eBay late one Thursday night. It arrived at my door by FedEx the following Tuesday morning. Amazingly fast. Of course, I got a FedEx invoice a few weeks later for the import duty, tax, and processing fee. If you don't mind me asking what did that run you? I have inside line with ETS and ABM so they are probably my first choice but I am interested in this bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 >> If you don't mind me asking what did that run you? The JCustom bridge was $130 and the headpiece was $80. $30 for FedEx from South Korea to Canada. >> I have inside line with ETS and ABM so they are probably my first choice but I am interested in this bridge. I had looked at the ABM product via Allparts, but the price was higher. I really had my sights set on Strandberg's single-string tuners and string-locks, but his web site says they are on reserve for his backlog of full-build clients. With Ola's permission, I hope to use his EGS body design for this build. I've never even played a headless before, so this will be an interesting experiment. BTW, my last build was a carved-top 7-string superstrat inspired by you, RAD. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 >> If you don't mind me asking what did that run you? The JCustom bridge was $130 and the headpiece was $80. $30 for FedEx from South Korea to Canada. >> I have inside line with ETS and ABM so they are probably my first choice but I am interested in this bridge. I had looked at the ABM product via Allparts, but the price was higher. I really had my sights set on Strandberg's single-string tuners and string-locks, but his web site says they are on reserve for his backlog of full-build clients. With Ola's permission, I hope to use his EGS body design for this build. I've never even played a headless before, so this will be an interesting experiment. BTW, my last build was a carved-top 7-string superstrat inspired by you, RAD. Thanks! Thank you for the information. For a 6 string that is a good price. I am looking into more strings than that so I may end up with ETS or ABM single bridge solutions. As for your last build verse your new build...Your welcome and you are making much better choice for inspiration on the new build. I am glad you are picking better role models moving forward! Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Who is the e-bay seller? I tried searching for the bridge, but couldn't find it on e-bay. Thanks, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The eBay seller is headlessresearch http://stores.ebay.c...HEADLESS?_rdc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Interesting....always good to have another source of headless stuff. I've still got a set of ETS single string headless units (they're slow, but they make fantastic stuff), but I'm filing that away. As for grounding, I don't see how this is any different from grounding any generic fixed bridge. Ground any part of the bridge, and you're done. The strings are all connected at said bridge, at the headpiece, and at the zero fret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Thanks Wisdom- Got it in my e-bay watch list now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 (edited) [...] As for grounding, I don't see how this is any different from grounding any generic fixed bridge. Ground any part of the bridge, and you're done. The strings are all connected at said bridge, at the headpiece, and at the zero fret. Unfortunately, this bridge has black plating covering every component, including the movable saddles, set screws, etc. Even the bare aluminum saddle inserts in my pic just sit on top of black plating. I haven't bothered disassembling the tuning knobs, but I'm assuming the same situation. Since this bridge is supposed to be a Steinberger clone, I searched the web for any mention of how those bridges are grounded, but couldn't find anything. I was planning to scrape the plating away where the high E-string saddle contacts the base plate, where the aluminum saddle insert contacts its saddle, and around one base plate mounting screw hole for my grounding wire. The E-string will connect to the other strings via the zero-fret. Just as I was about to post this reply, I decided to check the bridge with my ohmmeter. Sure enough, you are correct Mattia, the black tuner screw knobs are conducting. Relief! So I will only need to remove the plating around the base plate screw hole for my ground wire. Edited April 28, 2012 by wisdom727 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.