Jump to content

Push-pull "Switchblade" mid booster preamp...


mistermikev

Recommended Posts

so yawn... yest another push-pull preamp layout from mike v... I know.  Just figured I'd share... another variation on a mid booster based on popular internet schem. 

NOTE: need to wire in some resistors across lugs 1/2 and 2/3 to turn a 250k(or 100k) pot into a 50k pot depending on what is available (100k if 100k or 62k if 250k).

BladePreampe_V1.2.thumb.png.7dd81c80256afc2b300bfcee0ce5df37.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

BladePreamp_V1.3.pdf

BladePreampe_V1.3.thumb.png.e7bfca31511262358fc94d241699b416.png

for the record and in case anyone wants to try this I made some changes(new version above) and verified this version tonight.  There are a few small changes/notes I would make regarding a build:

1) pretty std practice but resistors first, then ic mount, then there were a couple parts I mounted on the back of the pcb since they would be close to the push/pull.  the diode for instance (make sure to orient correctly or you won't have power).  Also the .0033uF cap - you could bend it flat and it's really close but I just mounted it on the back.  finally, the 4.7uF cap - I used tantalum and bent it away from the push/pull.

2) I couldn't find acceptable pcb mount push pull pot so I used a std lug 25ok linear.  I used a set of 62k resistors and wired them directly to the pot lugs connecting together in the middle... I used the extra lead from each resistor to mount the pot to the board.  I drilled bigger holes for the dpdt part of the switch and this allowed the std lugs to push right in.

3) the ic is really close to the push/pull... I actually bent one of the tabs on the push/pull downward to give just enough clearance to sneak the chip in but with more patience it probably would have fit fine.

4) I had to trim off the bottom row on the board (by the pot) as my top was 1/4" thick.  More than likely this wouldn't be a problem in the std strat pickguard but if you need to you can sand off that bottom row (ground) and simply run a wire from bridging the top left corder to reconnect the left side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...