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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. right on. I thought I had seen you use a router plane setup b4. one way or another - got her done.
  2. well... my router jig is adjustable in height so... idk if that's what you mean. also, I find cannons or hammers get the most use in my tool arsenal! Everything looks like a nail... er, um... cannon fodder.
  3. would have been a good use for a router plane jig. I got an extra one but I'm pretty sure I'd have to mortgage my house to ship it to you!! at the end of the day... doesn't matter how you get to the church... just that you are there. I'm sure I'm repeating myself... by that top is really lovely in natural.
  4. the glow in the dark accent ferrule surrounds is really a nice detail. "It's the little things". cudos.
  5. right on. that looks great. almost looks metallic. some nice curves there too.
  6. for some reason one of your pictures or videos isn't showing... 7th down. looks good. the green and natural contrast is really classic.
  7. that's a really nice looking guitar. afa neck pocket... for me... I like to lay things out. I know that Ash's advice above has worked great for him and many and is rock solid... but just more comfortable mocking things up in an editor and being able to see it virtually and "play" with the angle. really was surprised the first time I did it how arbitrary the angle really is. If you factor in the fact that you could (in theory) plane off some of your top at an angle too... or just plane the pocket at an angle... there is a surprising amount of play. in the interest of providing options... it's one you could consider. when I've done it... I lay things out actual size in graphic editor. I mock up a sideview of all components... my body, plug in a mock neck, add frets based on my actual fret height, mock up my exact bridge minimum height at my actual scale length, put a line in to act as the string sitting 1/64th above the fret. I take the neck as one whole component and rotate it and I can see where minimum is and decide if I want to go more or minimal. as biz pointed out... this lets you see the sideview and anticipate where the fretboard edge is going to be in relationship to the end of the guitar. anywho, just a thought.
  8. i too am a big fan of mohawk. Before I had a compressor I was all about their lacquer color tone series... still have a can of that that I have to use. About the best quality from a rattle can I've ever experienced. Now, using their guitar nitro lacquer and it's also very nice. Can't recommend them enough.
  9. hehe, nothing quite like fully admitting you forgot the lyrics. In high school... i did a benefit with this band... and we played war pigs and I sang... couldn't remember the lyrics to last verse and was not able to admit it (now in darkness world stops turning...). so we just did this extended version where I stalled by saying I wanted to see everyone banging their heads. I wish I had had the balls to just admit it... and then have someone remind me. Comes off pretty balsy, lol.
  10. i'm not really a modern guy... but that's a nice build. good job. typically p90s do get a 500k and singles a 250, but looks like you got it on the run.
  11. there is some spray... well just watch this video (i believe it's butle cellusolve(spelling!!))
  12. I don't know if this would have saved you completely... but a while back i saw a video comparing a number of commercial/diy end grain sealers... and the jist of it was that elmers white glue (not wood glue... the kind you use with glitter!) was better than many and almost as good as some of the expensive options. Been using it to seal my end grain since. afa top twist... i haven't had to fix twist but I have def fixed cup. I've done the sprits of water followed by weight and repeat... but never submerged them. Typically this has fixed them a little, but never completely flattened them... and I just ended up clamping them flat to cut a join and sanding out any leftover irregularities. The best thing I've found is just to leave them sit for a long time with a bunch of weight on them and dry. that takes a long time and may not completely fix the issue, but it's a lot less effort!!.
  13. I can confirm... yonico is def chinese. that said... they are really great bits... been using them for a while. You wouldn't expect them to last like whiteside and they don't... but when they are new they sure cut like whiteside. I would wager they last longer than the bosch or other "mid grade" bits. cool thread and a lot of detail there... I do mine by cnc now but had considered this route a while back... I'm guessing this will be a very useful thread for many. cudos.
  14. in one of my builds here... sweetspotblue... I did an all tru oil finish. did a waterslide for the headstock... used tru oil on ebony. used acrylic to coat the decal so ink wouldn't run... built up tru oil on headstock and got it glass smooth, put on waterslide, then burried it in tru oil. no issues whatsoever. i don't know about other oils as tru oil is really more of a varnish than an oil... but it will def work with tru oil.
  15. that is most def due to humidity. common issue. worst is... freq you can get blush from humidity that shows up a year later. Doen'st just happen to nitro but it is pretty infamous for it. Things you can do to mitigate: warm your lacquer and do extremely light coats that you let dry for longer than normal. if using a compressor def want a filter on it/water trap. other than that... it's really best to wait to lay down paint till you have lower humidity.
  16. i actually looked it up after that post... my take-a-way - what an odd name!!
  17. i have no idea what a frisket is... but I like the word. hehe. have never done this myself... but have often thought about it. if I had to do it... I would probably do a scan of my inlay and get it into my computer, then print out those lines on my vinyl inkjet paper, use a sharp fiskars detail scissors to cut the lines carefully... and then tape it on carefully. all easy to do. another idea might be to use flex-all or other rubberized paint... use a detail brush to paint it on... spray over it... rubber should just pull right off the inlay. I think the frisket (whatever the hell that is lol) could work just as good... the trick I think is going to be nice clean lines. I have recently used vinyl as mentioned above to do nat binding and it worked very well. was super easy and I got nice crisp lines. Painting something on... gonna require a real steady hand to get those kind of lines... but doable. hope something there helps.
  18. coming together nicely. when I saw the bown dust above... I thought "jeez I better save some of that" - hehe. old habits and all hehe, then I noticed the cup lol. Might want to store that away from the coffee!
  19. that fretboard looks awesome. the gobs of green goo look like quatrophonic lung butter tho. hoik.... patewey.
  20. right on... little blending and "ninja vanish".
  21. well... it just struck me when I saw it... was thinking "well I bet that would take a looooong time"!
  22. above... first post... you say "Fret slotting files can be very expensive. Mine cost about €5 (yes, it's a feeler gauge"... I think you mean nut slotting... and if not I would very much like to see how the hell that works!! some great ideas in this thread from all. I imagine this to be a solid resource to others so... here's small contribution: for shooting they make these been bag rests... it's the perfect neck rest! $7.99 and best of all - zero effort!! https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Support-SandBag-Holders-Photography/dp/B07WDW92WQ sanding beam - well another option is a machined level. generally $20 from hardware store and decent precision... I still use for lower grits. That said - I've found an actual precision bar is very much worth it here for the final leveling - ymmv.
  23. so... little late to the party so forgive if it's been addressed... but at 1 1/4" that's going to be rough afa clearance. I think a 5 - way switch might just sneak in there but a tremolo is usually going to require 1 1/2" minimum unless you get something really low profile like used in the sabre series. ok, that out of the way... jem - cool. is on my bucketlist to build a jem. have a 77fp. one of the best guitars I've ever played, and easily one of the best sounding guitars ever. best neck finish: well... best for feel in my experience is tru oil. just feels like a raw neck despite offering pretty good protection. best for sealing/stability - probably poly. necks that are well sealed tend to fluctuate less with the humidity and for some this is a huge thing... others a small thing. decal - have an inkjet or laser printer? get some clear waterslide decal stock. You can whip up the logo of your choice, print it, spray a few light coats of clear acrylic on it... and slide it on just like a model airplane. if you want to get fancy... you could print it out reverse, paint in some details with gold paint marker, add clear add very light clear, flip it and slide on. or... you can try your hand at screen printing. you can get screen/ink from many art stores as well as paper you can print, apply chemicals... and parts that aren't printed will dissolve. stick to screen... and you can squeegee on a logo. lots of options anyway. body finish - well same as neck... tru oil is just the best for a raw feel imo. osmo poly x raw is another I've learned from folks here that is just great.
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