piezo help....

[asm]

i need some links/pics/info on how big they are, what they replace, how much they cost, ect.

never seen one in person. i have the basic 'idea' of what one does but havent seen it in person to examine them.

any help appreciated!!

t

[Brian]

They vary in size, shape, quality and cost. Any idea what you want to use one on?

There are many forms of them for many different styles of guitars.

[asm]

looking at making a 7 string, neck thru, string thru, baritone.

thinking about a piezo system to either eliminate the neck pickup or keep the neck and just have it to give me some acoustic like tones.

not much of a 'shredder' so necks not to important to me

[Brian]

What kind of bridge are you planning on?

A blade or strip Piezo might work for you. There are plenty of 6 string bridge's on the market with them already built in but no 7's to the best of my knowledge at this point.

[frank falbo]

Graphtech might sell you 7 individual saddles you can use on a 7-string strat style trem or hardtail.

[asm]

i was thinking of winding my own, if not, an emg bridge.

so not many people sell them as individual saddles? ill check that company's website out.

t

[Brian]

I was reffering to the actual Bridge not the bridge pickup

[asm]

was looking at a tune-o-matic, but the only ones i can find in 7 string cost like 120$. so i might fabricate one and use saddles from a TOM, so the cost will be in the 15$ range.

also, i was thinking about using an acoustic-type bridge shown here.

and instead of bone use a hard wood piece. think that might work? or would it sound weird?

thanks for all the help.

t

[Brian]

Sweet looking example, I think I would stick with the bone though because hardwood will absorb more of the string vibration as it passes through it then plastic or bone.

You could place a ribbon Piezo under the saddle and grab every bit you want on tone though

[asm]

this might seem stupid, but how do you adjust string height and intonation on a system like that?

t

[Brian]

String height is adjusted by shaving the bone or adjusting the thumb screws that you can see on either end of the bridge. Intonation is a different story since it involves making sure you have the proper angle to begin with on the bridge saddle, once it's set there is no changing it.

[asm]

would you mind explaining a little more in depth about intonation and how it relates to the bridge angle? im not following 100%

thanks!

t

[Brian]

Take a closer look at the picture example on this thread you will notice on the bass side the saddle of the bridge (which is holding the strings up) is futher away from the trailing front edge of the bridge itself compaired to the treble side which is much closer to the front. It's all about the angle.

[James]

On the subject of intonation for an floating bridge, one that you can move gack and forth as in the picture. I find the following described method handy for me.

1. using a fairly accurate measuring device, at the small e string, measure from where the nut meets the fretboard to the 12th fret, write the result down.

2. measure from the 12th fret to where the string crosses the bridge, the measure should be the same as the first. if not, tap the base of the bridge using a small piece of wood like a paint stirer stick in either direction to where needed.

3. Repeat the same measure for the large E string, only for the second part of the measure add approximately 3/16 of an inch (or about 4mm if you are using metrics), this will get you very close to the correct angle of the bridge in relation to the fretboard for intonation, using a tuner then tune to pitch, check by plucking the string at the 12th fret, and pluck at 12th fret harmonic and adjust the bridge until the sounds match. Usually a floating bridge is already made to compensate for the other strings, so all you would need to do is the two e strings adjustments of the bridge. I am sure there are other methods but this works good for me and may be of help to someone else.