lotass Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 Well I used a chisel and i got some strong sandpaper, but there is still some uneven wood in spots...like if I try to chisel it down some more, it ends up that the area i just chiseled becomes lower down then the original "low area", anyway I can get rid of the high places (sandpaper hasn't worked well yet, maybe if i use it excessively it might) but anything like a razor blade or the side of the chisel-type tool would help smooth it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 You can use a razor blade, and the trick is to go in the general direction of the grain, but with the razor at a 45 degree angle. After a few strokes reverse the angle. That should knock off any high spots while still removing wood quickly. Be careful of the corners because they can but big gashes in the wood. You might want to snap the corners off with pliers or round them over. You can also use a big file, but it will take long. If you're sanding without a block then your fingers are conforming to the high and low spots, so you'll never truly get the surface level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 yup, get one of those rubber blocks from wal-mart for getting a flat surface, what shape are you going for that needs so much work? don't tell me you're trying to carve by hand with sandpaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 You need a rasp. They are fairly inexpensive, can get a set of 3, round, half-round and flat. Best thing I ever used for roughing in and getting the basic shapes down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotass Posted March 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 yup, get one of those rubber blocks from wal-mart for getting a flat surface, what shape are you going for that needs so much work? don't tell me you're trying to carve by hand with sandpaper? er on the backside where your body rests against it. I put some sandpaper on a 2x4 block, but I couldnt seem to get the right angle because of the shape, so I'll probably try a razor and once all the wood is level try the block again. it's not that much work I dont think, only took about an hour today, ill take some pics tomorrow and post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotass Posted March 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 I dont want to start another topic cause i already have two on the first page and other peoples dont get read as much if they get bumped to the second so ill just post another question here.. Im going to route for my floyd bridge, but i want to make sure my measurements are right here. If i have a 24.75" scale length, and my neck is joined at the 16th fret then I took the left over from 16th fret - bridge and made a mark where that was. So that's where the beginning of the bridge would be correct? What happens if this is like 1/4" off? will the guitar be screwed? #2...scale length is nut --- bridge right? does it vary for different types of bridges? like nut -- beginning of normal tremolo vs. nut -- middle of floating? thanks I appreciate your help with my questions, couldnt build my guitar w/o you guys. edit- bleh just found a topic on it, now im all scared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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