psw Posted August 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 (edited) When I switch to harmonic mode, should my tone change? I thought it would not but, it does. The tone goes really trebley. Oh...it's hard to test things like this out at 4am in the morning...(about to go to work).... Well, yes and no! Harmonics are really high, at least an octave above the note being played (sometimes two) and that takes it way over the guitar's normal range. But, the harmonic should emerge from the original note, which should sound no different initially. Now, I can switch between harmonic and normal sustain modes with no clicks, pops or tone change...but...I have noticed that on some tone settings, I am thinking a Dire Straights Patch I have that seems to be giving me this kind of problem. It could be that the thinned out compressed tone (think sultans of swing) is accentuating some ugly frequencies, or that the Digital Effects Processor (a cheap Korg G1) is having trouble working on such high frequencies (it sounds kind of grainy in that mode). Otherwise, there is no tone change...so I need to look into this a little more. One thing that will effect it is low battery...that could cause this problem. It could be possible that stray EMI is somehow cancelling frequencies of the pickup...but as I say, it isn't generally a problem with my guitar so, I don't see why effects processing should effect performance really. By changing out the output capacitor to the lower 100uF you have made the sustainer amp very treble biased...if EMI is getting into the pickup (the Pup is sensing the driver's signal) this may cause this problem, but I would have thought it would happen in either mode. Remember that the harmonic mode is caused by the cancellation of vibrations (the fundumental mode of vibration) and is simply a reverse of the signal not itself a high frequency signal. Anyway...change out the battery and test a few different tones and see if that helps...good luck...now off to work and into the start of spring! - pete hey...101 pages...I wonder what happens when you go over 999? The thread went a little quiet there... Edited August 6, 2006 by psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilki Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 hi, i was wondering if it would be possible to pull the wire out of an old transformer to use for the sustainer driver. would it be long enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Hi and welcome Wilki Probably not a good idea and not as easy as you might expect. There is a fairly strict yet simple formula for this device that really shouldn't be under estimated. You need some 0.2mm insulated copper wire and this will only cost about $5 for a small reel, enough to make a few drivers. Unwinding wires out of devices is a false economy, it may not be the right guage, it will have conformed to what it has previously been wound on, may loose some insulation and possibly short and be hard to wind and pot; just for starters... Anyway, take it a step at a time, feel free to ask advice and be prepared for sustain... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilki Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Hi and welcome Wilki Probably not a good idea and not as easy as you might expect. There is a fairly strict yet simple formula for this device that really shouldn't be under estimated. You need some 0.2mm insulated copper wire and this will only cost about $5 for a small reel, enough to make a few drivers. Unwinding wires out of devices is a false economy, it may not be the right guage, it will have conformed to what it has previously been wound on, may loose some insulation and possibly short and be hard to wind and pot; just for starters... Anyway, take it a step at a time, feel free to ask advice and be prepared for sustain... pete ah ok, thanks. i will get some next time in in town. is this the right stuff? http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/W3132 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Exactly like that...there is 85 metres on there for $A6.95...ideal for a few attempts...a driver only has about 200 turns so there is plenty for mistakes and development. And, it is likely that the first driver might not be quite as good as you would like...though it is easy enough. So...are you in Australia then? The tricky bit is not the winding, but making the bobbin to wind the wire onto. Remember, this is a driver and according to my design principles should be very thin (3mm) even if you are not making it on top of a pickup as I did. You will have to wind the the thing around a steel or magnetic core as was discussed (mine is a 3mm ordinary steel blade design cut from the stuff you find in a hardware store), but very importantly, must be totally saturated in glue. I used ordinary PVA woodworking glue...a bit messy, but it's water based so will wash off. The glue is important (as is taping it tightly with PVC tape or similar) as there must be no internal vibrations in the windings. As you wind it you will find the ends of the coil get quite tight but the sides may be a bit loose...just keep pushing them in and winding over them as you go (I used an icy-pole stick). Protect the windings from the steel with some pvc tape, add glue and as you wind the glue will be forced up through the windings...add more as required! The whole idea is that the windings become electromagnetic and if at all loose will attempt to vibrate themselves...not the strings! This wastes efficiency, but also generates it own signals and noise...not good. Otherwise, it doesn't need to be that fancy and wont take long to do, once you work out how to make the bobbin to wind it on. Now...you will also need to work on that circuit, DSE has your LM386 and pretty much anything else you'd need I imagine... Good luck, keep in touch... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 16, 2006 Report Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hey Pete how even or should i say perfect were your windings on the pickup in your tutorial does scatter winding the pickup make a differance? can the magnet be a polepeice? im making three differant drivers 1. just like your tutorial 2. just the driver part of your system 3. a bilateral driver as close to the patent i can get im trying your idea to adjust to the pitfalls of this basic system before getting deeper into the bilateral design wich i understand is not what this thread is about its just that im bi-polar so my brain moves kinda slow as it over thinks every possible process in other words i think of every possible solution before/during and after anything i touch i wish i could print the whole thread so i could read it like a book as i have done with the patent that i have read some twenty times or more so far by the way if you have not read it there is a ton of info to be had thanks for your time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Enamel Posted August 16, 2006 Report Share Posted August 16, 2006 patent that i have read some twenty times or more so far by the way if you have not read it there is a ton of info to be had thanks for your time I was embarassed to mention it but I've read the whole patent too! I'm glad I'm not the only one with way too much spare time! You're right, there is a s$%t load of info there. I'm curious to hear/see this bilateral driver you're worknig on. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2006 Beware of the Patents...they are designed to mislead... All the same there are very many sustainer patents and others that may relate to other types of electromagnetic devices... I think anyone who has been following this, and me given most of the posts and all of it has been "hosted" by myself, has a tendancy towards this kind of behaviour... Now, don't think that that particular hoover patent is the only way to approach this (this mid driver design never made production) or that the z-style pickup (fender) bi-lateral driver is the only way to approach it. My hex driver designs were the culmination of a whole range of ideas of which the dual coil EMI cancelling approach was only one. I don't want to give up all the details (who knows what I will do with the ideas that I explored there) but here are a few approaches that cut back on the EMI output >>> Multi coils of opposite polarities...in the Hex drivers six separate "driver elements" >>> Multi magnet drivers...in the hex drivers there were 12 magnets in an aligned array >>> Coil alignment in respect to pickup coils...in the fernandes version of yore, it was like a stacked single coil on it's side (my hex drivers were very different again but the same principle) >>> Magnetic shielding...using magnetic or ferrous material to absorb EMI and protect pickups from EMI >>> Magnetic focusing...similar to above but keeping the energy focused on the strings, not leaking everywhere >>> Higher Efficiency...requires less power to achieve effect, thus less EMI >>> Compactness...keeping things small can contain the EMI effect to a localised area. OK...now bear in mind though, that these are strategies to reduce EMI, not necessary improve the performance...that is, the "effect"; what the thing does... So, before getting carried away with complex notions (as I am most guilty of if you have looked at the Hex era of this thread...) in driver or cuircuit design, step back a little as I did when coming up with the thin driver...and think about what you are trying to achieve. And...that might be to think beyond the patents, or even disregard them! So...what has this thread and my work brought to the Sustainer development. Well, the thin driver exploits compactness (a result of my miniture hex driver designs) both to contain EMI to a smaller area and to increase speed and efficiency. This increased speed allows for the use of a very simple low cost amplifier. Note, that for all the work on the bi-lateral driver, the patents specify secret AGC and frequency/phase compensation circuitry to drive it and magnetic "shunts" to get those high strings singing. None have come up with a device that will drive all strings equally, all favour the lowest tones...as does mine. spazzyone and Tony Enamel...use the USPTO site and get a reader (eg infraview) to down load the images (it's all free) and check the way the patents are referered to and referenced by...don't rely on third party services necessarily. Also, be aware that there are patents offices in different countries, I'm sure there is heaps more in Japan for instance. Beware of the way they are worded and see if they really are offering something or just trying to be different and cover all bases so as to get the patent approved and shut out the competition (such as me)! spazzyone... Hey Pete how even or should i say perfect were your windings on the pickup in your tutorial does scatter winding the pickup make a differance? can the magnet be a polepeice? im making three differant drivers 1. just like your tutorial 2. just the driver part of your system 3. a bilateral driver as close to the patent i can get im trying your idea to adjust to the pitfalls of this basic system before getting deeper into the bilateral design wich i understand is not what this thread is about Ok...questions... Scatter Winding On a 3mm deep, hand wound coil you are going to be scatter wound...don't confuse this device with the tone concerns of a pickup, there are very few windings and it is not a major concern here. Theoretically it would make a difference (scattering may be better) but is unavoidable so don't even worry about it. Polepiece Magnet Sure, but it will be very hard to find a suitable magnet, especially if you want to make a thin core like mine (3mm). Tim made a good one if you've seen the epoxy bobbinless coil he made. This has the benefit of making the device compact...but then it won't work on top of the pickup. My combination driver/pickup uses the pickups magnet so is effectively smaller...things to consider! Driver only design I have made identical drivers, one in my guitar and another that has been tested on it's own...they both work fine but the separate drive would require the removal and loss of the neck pickup in most guitars...I'm liking the combo more and more...(if nothing else it fits a hole already there, uses the magnet that is already there and has height adjustment...already there...hmmmm) a bilateral driver as close to the patent i can get Well...be aware that this is not necessarily what is inside the production sustainiac...it is an illustartion of the principle. There is one by DizzyOne in the Sustainer sounds thread which is pretty impressive but it did need very complex and secret phase compensation circuitry. Here is a picture of the bi-lateral driver so people can get an idea of what it is about... This does not exploit the ideas that I used in the thin driver and allow for the simpler circuitry and EMI reduction...it is a lot larger, and at least as complex to make. There may even be a dead spot between the drivers that will effect sustain when bending the g string...hmmmm i understand is not what this thread is about Oh NO...this thread is about exploring all things sustain and there are quite a few ways to approach this. The thin driver is the model I am promoting as the easiest and most effective DIY sustainer that I could come up with...at this time. I do think that the idea is one that can be built on and an interesting direction to look into...but it is not to be found in any patents. I have a whole range of ideas that I'd like to explore or could encourage you to...BUT...I do think there is a time to step back and look at exactly what you are trying to achieve by adding complexity to something that works... For instance...I discovered a lot in the Hex design period...but I didn't end up achieving what I was setting out to do with it. In the end, I got better results with the simpler thin coil design that exploited the most basic of it's elements. What I was trying to achieve was a sustainer that would sustain all strings equally in a chord, allow the use of any pickup combination, be small enough to be surface mounted on most guitars, be able to be implemented with very little modifiction to the instrument...it got way beyond DIY and even my abilities to build it. I did learn a lot in the process and did make something very small (5mmx5mm) and that could operate close to other pickups...but I am not sure this is really the way to approach it anymore. So, feel free to explore other ideas, but there are not a lot of original information in the patents once you have read a few (I have read a lot of them) and you will learn more by building the thing and messing with designs of your own than following the patents to the letter. Just because it is in the patent, does not mean it ended up in the product remember, or that it really is an "improvement" to the basic concept of the device. enjoy and sustain on... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 17, 2006 Report Share Posted August 17, 2006 thanks ive been waiting on the magnet polepeice question i have a bobbin that i slotted for it ...ill post a pic i know the patents push sometimes misleading info...lots of it the reason im trying bilateral is EMI. that rail pickup i have worked good but the EMI was horrible at best but it worked i always read beyond everything i read. ill read something thru many times then ponder all the info then write everything i question down then try to come up with answers/solutions then read some more then tinker away. thus the many trials and errors my thinking on the bilateral is the same as a humbucker almost in that it can cancel noise/EMI and the bobbins i am making also slant like the sustainiac in the hopes of not losing the tracking when bending now one more question if i may on the staked pickup driver combo would it matter wich coil was on top? thanks again.....im off to tinkering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted August 17, 2006 Report Share Posted August 17, 2006 The driver should be on top, because the closer it is to the strings, the more efficient it is and the better it works. I wonder... using the bi-lateral design, could one feasibly pump more power through the treble side since it takes more power to drive the higher strings (keeping in mind, of course, any EMI restrictions you may run into)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2006 now one more question if i may on the staked pickup driver combo would it matter wich coil was on top? As far as I got...I couldn't get the driver to work beneath the pickup...the driver needs to be very close to the strings. It's a shame because it would look so much neater and easier if you could just stick it on underneath. Yes, well EMI can be a problem, but I was able to overcome it with the thin driver design. I would be interested in a bi-lateral or some otther EMI cancelling device so as to fit to a middle pickup so that either neck or bridge pickup could be used. A bi-lateral design may well suit a conventional humbucker too...but it would be hard to fit two coils on top of a conventional single coil. So...you did get the rail to work?! So, can you give a few more details. I was wondering about them from a few aspects...each coil has a very thin coil and if wound as a driver, would that be even better? What if you wound both as opposite driver coils that spanned all the strings...would the push/pull of the opposing driver coils cause problems or solutions while cancelling EMI. If I remember right though...didn't you try to get sustain by burning out the pickup by running a few volts of power through it. This is not the way to make a driver, a pickup is a different beast and not designed for this purpose. It reminds me of when I was young....I used to make model areoplanes, and my brother once pointed out that with a big enough engine, anything would fly. Hmmm...so a brick with a big enough rocket attached will fly, but is it a plane. It is an experiment, but the end result may not be an aeroplane, or in this case a playable practical instrument...just a thought.... EMI is a fact of such a device...if it was totally enclosed and magnetically shielded it would have no EMI...but it would put out no magnetic energy and thus do nothing! EM energy is how it works the "I" (interferance) is when it get's into the pickups or wiring causing problems. Some EMI is unavoidable then. In particular, if a lot of power is used it will travel down the metal strings to the pickup anyway. So...that is one reason to stick to low powered amplifiers rather than slamming the device with a lot of watts. So, one approach is to make a device that is efficient enough to work with a low power which itself will generate less EMI as well as smaller amps and better power use. Anyway...since people seemed to be interested in reading patents, my long posts like these should give no problems...if people are interested, I'll keep writing them I guess...keep contributing... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 17, 2006 Report Share Posted August 17, 2006 yes the rail works it was the amp that died ill try using both coils one reversed phase and see what happens and as thin as the coils yes they would work great and the few volts were 70 to be exact lol. here are some pics the amp i was using http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...uitar/aug-4.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...uitar/aug-3.jpg single unit driver http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...uitar/aug-2.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...uitar/aug-1.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf.../guitar/aug.jpg twin rail pickup with a penny to better compare coil size http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...uitar/aug-5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2006 (edited) Yes...well...I would switch to low powered battery amps like the fetzer ruby and wind drivers to suit the impedance. I know micheal brooks is suposed to be running a conventional pickup from 110volts but he refuses to confirm or give details on the infinite guitar...mind you he is a qualified electronics expert, so, you know....he has a licence to kill himself with such things! He appears to have a mammoth transformer attached to that strat and I know the sustainiac guys looked it over before they came up with their version....which does not use such voltages, so...eh! The performance of the infinite guitar or any of the other "sustainers"...are they really any better than this DIY version (pop not withstanding)? Anyway...a 70 volt output is designed to be used with impedance matching transformers and is likely to have damaged both the pickup/driver and the amp. Just on practical grounds, you were never going to be able to supply 70 volts into the guitar... I would strongly advise you to get with the program and devise a suitable amplifier that would work in a practical sense...that is, a usable instrument...and play safe. There is a lot of driver development to be done from this base as well as circuit design if you wanted to get more into that, without risking frying your equipment or yourself. As for the thin driver approach, while it may seem simple (and it is), it is based on some practical ideas and experience...the thing is compact so leaks EMI far less and is more efficient so runs on less power for a given effect (also aiding EMI reduction)...it also works much faster so can handle the higher frequency strings without complicated phase compensating circuitry. If you wanted to convert the rail to a driver you could destroy it, block up the bobbins and wind two 4 ohm thin drivers on there and see if that works...or work out some way to mount twin drivers on top of the twin coils and have a twin coil version of my device. I don't know how that would work as there are some problems that I can anticipate in certain modes of vibration, but they may not matter too much and it may be better....who knows?! In the end, if you wind up with a device that works as well as mine does...was the effort worth it anyway? If you were to make a driver that was so low in EMI with this method and was able to mount it in the centre position and could retain a choice of neck or bridge pickups...then my answer would be, yes! If a twin coil driver fixed the pop, maybe...if it made wiring and bypassing easier...possibly. But these posibilities are the best you could hope for...making a truely polyphonic sustaining device will be far more elusive I fear. Anyway...play safe... pete Primal...missed this earlier I wonder... using the bi-lateral design, could one feasibly pump more power through the treble side since it takes more power to drive the higher strings (keeping in mind, of course, any EMI restrictions you may run into)? Yes, possibly...maybe as simple as more windings on one coil over the other, different guages of wire or a stereo circuit with different frequency biases (output caps for instance). It would take some experimenting but that is what I was heading towards with the hex designs with each driver element tailored to each individual string. The thin blade design may do that itself by optimising the design for higher strings while leaving the easily driven strings to fend for themselves with a less efficient treble biased circuit and thinner blade...if that makes sense! p Edited August 17, 2006 by psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 Hey there...got this message.. I´m in brazil, i built a sustainer and dont work, i read all forum and my circuit really dont work... Do u have a step by step tutorial?...thanks Agnus Greff Hi there A.G. and welcome to the thread. To work out what has gone wrong, I'd have to know what you have done. As for a step by step, kind of...try these threads Sustainer Tutorial My sustainer driver Pictorial You need to be sure that you are getting sound out of the circuit. The easiest way of doing this is to connect the circuit to a speaker rather than the driver...remember that it is just a little amplifier. Now if you are getting sound, that should be ok, if not...you have not built that right and you have made a mistake in the building of it, and/or got a/some components too hot and broken them or simply putting them in back to front. The transistor in the Fetzer/ruby is the most obvious one to look at. Anyway, send us a little more information of what you are trying... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 Well i tested my sinlge driver today and wow i fixed my pa amp and use the 8ohm output if i crank it it rumbles like hell so i use a very low setting no EMI whatsoever only when cranked i traded the mag polpeice for a laminated steel core with thicker lambs on the treble side works damm good thanks PSW this is based of your thin driver im still working the mini bobbins to try the bilateral but this will work for now. im keeping the idea of an offboard preamp/amp so i can switch modes with my feet ill keep you posted and add a sound clip tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 Why are you so intent on using that pa? Its FAR too much power... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 because right this second its all i have to test stuff with and it works i have a jackson mid boost that ill also try but dont think it will work its trial and error correct? therefor till i build somthing better ill use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 i have a jackson mid boost that ill also try but dont think it will work probably (definitely) not as this is just a preamp...however, you could use this as a preamp to an LM386 chip with output capacitor for the most basic amp...just two components ($3)...a couple of more components and you'd be better off though stability wise though...just a thought... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 Just for kicks i went back and used that rail "pickup" and i have to say its the best thing i tried i know a pickup is not a driver but it does work good on the 16ohm amp output 2 x8ohm coils= 16 even cranked at there is no emi whatsoever when i get a little cash im gonna send one of these to Pete and let you monkey around with it i do have one question for ya if i may my e/a/d/g all sustain but my b and high e go to harmonics why? im not sure how i have the coils wired but i think they are outta phase ill check and repost. my other comp is almost done so i will get a sound clip up P.S i think i could even put this in the middle position im gonna try let me know what you think and so far a p.a amp and dual rail pickup does a sustainer make and yes im getting a 386 to use with that jackson preamp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 Alright, you got me, psw. After several months of being on PG, I've posted to your monster topic. I thought you might find this interesting - I came across a site by Benjamin Vigoda, an MIT dude, who built a "plastic feedback sustain guitar with a digital signal processor for feedback control" - otherwise known as a sustainer. The site is Oh Yeah Baby Guitar. He even has a little Quicktime movie on his page. And yes, I've been thinking about a sustainer in a guitar of my own making as well - just let me get through the first attempt at one. Then I'll be able to spend a few months digging through this behemoth topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 this is a horrible vidclip. i dont know how to set the video length on my digicam (never used it before) so it is short im not sure how i have the pickup wired but i belive it is paralell im still messing with it so ill add more latter this is just that little p.a amp output to "Pickup"@16ohms and an original spider with chourus/verb/pingpong delay opinions are suggested http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzeSyNjEtB0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzeSyNjEtB0 wow..wowzers. That's it. I'm building me a humbucking driver cause that was pretty damn good.And a pretty convincing argument for the humbucking/bilateral driver theory. I simply cannot believe you got such good response by simply slamming a p.a through a pickup . And NO emi you say ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 27, 2006 Report Share Posted August 27, 2006 im not so sure it was as easy as slamming a p.a into a pickup but that is all i did. there are no effects inline on that clip the chourus and delay are from the spider 2x12 impedance is a must on this as 4/8ohm do not work as good. and no EMI at all. if there was you would here it when i made mistakes. i did try it in the middle position and started getting EMI but only when everything is wide open and it does not sustain as good that way either and some chords do sustain good others do not. octave's sustain great in all positions. and it is a lot of power as you can see in the vid where i have to tap other strings to mute them from sustaining and i will no longer play with high voltage in this experiment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted August 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2006 and i will no longer play with high voltage in this experiment I'm glad seriously good stuff and a valuable contribution to this thread...it's sure to inspire! So are you saying this is just a rail pickup, you didn't wind it as a driver? I must say I had no luck at all with using a conventional pickup as a driver myself. Have you got any idea how much power you are pumping into it? It bodes well for some other ideas...Ideally I'd like to see some way to have the amp in a stomp box and sent into the guitar some how and the octave, etc operated with a foot switch. This would provide the potential for very minimal alterations to most guitars. Member Dizzy was able to get a mid driver to work but without the harmonic function. He was able to use both the neck and bridge pickups to create neat effects. He used complicated phase compensation (that could be addressed through more efficient driver design, and a bi-lateral driver. I prefer the idea of the rail model for EMI reduction though and would pursue this option myself. Great stuff, keep it up! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazzyone Posted August 27, 2006 Report Share Posted August 27, 2006 just the rail unmodified. i tried it with a single coil also with minimal results as far as power it starts sustaining at a 1/4 of the volume knob what ever that would be and i plan on making my version as a floor operated unit and puting a rail in each of my guitars and using a din cable instead of the 1/4" jack kinda like a "snake" that ill slpit on the floorboard. i have not tried other wire combos yet but im hoping i can modify a volume pedal with a blend pot to get (toe down=sustain/toe up=harmonics) but not sure that can be done. i would also like to be able to switch it from driver back to pickup the best part was "no"EMI at all. i am having trouble on the high E at the 14th fret up but im using 10's i belive going up in gauge will solve this problem though as i can go to th 22nd on the B string lovecraft is correct that the dominet note in a chord phases out the other notes in a chord but not in every case as i can get a few chords to sustian very well and im talkin 3 note chords ill post another vid from a camcorder showing the whole signal path with beter audio with hopefully no latency. i also want to try effects in the chain again but my power supply to my digitech rp6 died (left it pluged in too long=poof) wich brings another question the rp6 was 12 volts A.C i have another 12 volt D.C power supply could i remove the diodes and capacitor and make it A.C? i know that can be done but i dont want to fry the rp6. they are both one and a half amps and as i posted earlier im gonna send you one of these rails within the next month as im getting three more you started this thread wich is how i came to this so i belive you earned at least one pickup(money has been tight as i collect ssdi for my bipolar condition and they switched my meds so i cant work for another 2 weeks and i have to work a meaningless job at least 24 hours a week to collect benifets) but that also gives me a lot of time to tinker. thanks again Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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