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Posted

Disclaimer: first project

I am embarrassed to even post this, but I would appreciate some advice on the best way to fix this. I made a pretty decent mess of cutting a switch slot in a maple capped tele. So I am trying to figure out the best way of covering it up.

I know the first option is to go buy the tele control face plate and use that, but I have already cut an access hole through the back with the idea of not covering up a bunch of the maple. It has some pretty nice figuring.

The next idea I thought of was to create my own small switch plate. I don't have any way to make a chrome one (which would be my first choice), but I was able to rough one out of some scrap maple.

slot4.jpg

Here are some other angles:

slot3.jpg

slot2.jpg

slot1.jpg

What do you think? Should I go with something like this, or just go get the tele control plate and be done with it? Or, are there other options?

(EDIT)

Here is what I did to the back of it, something different for the string ferrules.

teleback.jpg

Posted

the thing you have right now is a good way to go, dont use a control plate it will cover up some beautifull wood

but if you want some contrast you could always stain that little cover thing.

so my oppinion is to use a maple (or other wood) little cover plate

Posted

The only difference between a good carpenter and a great on is that a great one knows how to cover up his mistakes. :D

Looks rather classy to me.

BTW what besides a Phat Cat are you runnin for electronics?

Posted

Good call on the neck pickup, Litch, it is a Phat Cat. The other is a Jerry Donahue Tele bridge pickup (Seymour Duncan). Don't know what it will all sound like when it is up and running, but I can't wait to find out. BTW, I also hollowed out the body, so it is a sort of thinline tele.

Posted
I don't have any way to make a chrome one (which would be my first choice),

you might be able to have someone here make one for you! Give 'em a diagram, and have them cut it out of nickel silver with a jewelers saw (the same kind as used for inlay), get a small, cheap file and bevel the edges, then sand 220, 320, 400, 600 and buff the sucker out!

If you're looking into doing other inlay work at some point a jewelers saw frame and blades is a good thing to have, and a file is cheap (here's an auction for 12!); otherwise, roughing this out with a saw is not hard and takes maybe 15 minutes tops if you're at all experienced. Ask around; someone here would probably be glad to do it for you.

The wood one looks great, though!

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