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Routing templates


fidgec94

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£21.50 for a humbucker template from wdmusicproducts.co.uk ($30 from .com)

-way too pricey

approx $5 from stewmac

-great price but its either spend $20 on shipping or pay $7 on shipping and wait up to 4 weeks

Anyone got another suggestion? I SUCK at making my own, so i either need a template or a idiot proof way of making one

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For me, it's not worht my time to make templates for things like pickup cavities. I do make my own for the top trem routing but I try not to spend time on these things if I can avoid it. I don't have as much time to build as many others here probably do so if I can buy a good quality, accurate template - that's what I do.

If I lived in England, I would probably just pay the $20 and get it there quicker (and buy some other stuff that I might need later). If you have time to spend building your own, that's obviously easier on your wallet.

How do you go about making yours now? I know you said you're not happy with the results. What I do is screw stop blocks and straight edge guides onto the template stock and rout the cavities with a template bearing bit. It would probably be easier with a router table (and use a flush trim bit) but I don't use it. It usually requires several changes of the stop blocks and edge guides to get one completed but it does end up accurate and clean looking. I use jointed edges of hardwood for my edge guides.

Pics would probably help explain the way I do it but I don't have any right now. Let us know how you are currently making yours - maybe we can help.

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Also given the fact that the exchange rate is near 2 quid to 1 dollar now, you should order a bunch of stuff from stewmac. 10 PBS is cheap for postage if you look at it that way. I would NOT do surface mail. Everything I send that way gets damaged. Go air mail.

<edit>

Dave, why dont you do all the stop block set up to make a template. You'd do all the hard work once and then be on easy street. :D

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Dave, why dont you do all the stop block set up to make a template. You'd do all the hard work once and then be on easy street. 

What I do is screw stop blocks and straight edge guides onto the template stock and rout the cavities with a template bearing bit.

I guess I didn't word that clearly - all of that was how I make my templates - not how I rout the cavities. Besides, the screw holes from the guides and stop blocks would look horrible!!! :D

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What I do is screw stop blocks and straight edge guides onto the template stock and rout the cavities with a template bearing bit.

I guess I didn't word that clearly - all of that was how I make my templates - not how I rout the cavities. Besides, the screw holes from the guides and stop blocks would look horrible!!! B)

I think I read that too quickly. I missed the fact that you were routing templates. I feel so silly now. :D

*thinks of diversion*

<-------- Oh look! A dancing banana!

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I had a crack at it the other day on some 6mm mdf, just to see what i could do. I used a coping saw and then some small files for either end where the ears would sit.

It was just a trial and i hadnt really thought about it that much....think i try again with my router and some straight edge guides. It should be pretty easy to rout out the basic rectangle, then the ears with a smaller straight bit and then a file or something to round all the edges (i like the look of a humbucker body rout with rounded corners rather than straight, looks less.....robotic if you know what i mean :D )

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I used a coping saw and then some small files... It was just a trial.... think i try again with my router and some straight edge guides.

(i like the look of a humbucker body rout with rounded corners...

mdf makes great templates with uniform edges, but i think you'll find the router will give much cleaner results -- a smoother cut, exactly perpendicular edges, and it will automatically leave rounded corners from the radius of the bit, even if your straight-edge guides have square corners.

a drill can also be used to make rounded corners, but a drill press is best to get the holes exactly straight. i prefer drilling the holes first, before routing, since even with a press it can be tough to get them to line up really really close, like within a couple 64ths. then i rout between them with the straight-edge.

i've used the stew mac templates as straight-edges to rout templates for 7-string humbuckers and single coils. it took a lot of clamping and readjusting, but it worked really well. next i'll have to do the same with 6-string recessed Floyd templates...

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