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First project design help?


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I am currently designing a 24 fret neck through guitar.

Its my first project and I was wondering if you could help. Since its a neckthrough can I move the place where the neck meets the body back so instead of the normal 16th(I think) fret join its a 20th fret or something making it easier to reach the last frets.

Also is it hard to cut a neck angle into a neckthrough guitar?

Thanks

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the only thing i can see that would be a problem, is that the neck is going to look huge, but i think, that when you have it that big, its going to possibly warp your neck more, since it has a longer area to pull,

Curtis

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first off its noit physically impossible its just that the bodt shape would be akward, or do you mean that the "neck" part of the neck be moved farther up, in any case yes, but it needs thorough planing,

as for neck angle this has ben dicused you can either angle the neck or have a proper dropoff when the fretboard ends (the taller the bridge the moer the dropoff)

off course an angle is harder then a dropoff, but both ar duable with the same tools,

damn you curtis you posted faster :D

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TrueRussian

He said a NECKTHROUGH not a bolt on

the neck angle, from what i get for neckthroughs are that you just take it as a bigger peice, laminate it in the centre and have fun with a bandsaw, just cut it on a slight angle, i am not sure of the angle, but i did a 5 degree angle on my bolt on.

Hope this helps some

Curtis

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i know, but to make a lower neck-to-body join, you can either A. modify the body shape to achieve this B. move the fretboard up north to achieve this, or C. a little of both

and for the correct action you can either have a dropoff where the fretboard ends (in adittion the the fretboard) or a neck angle

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the only thing i can see that would be a problem, is that the neck is going to look huge, but i think, that when you have it that big, its going to possibly warp your neck more, since it has a longer area to pull,

Curtis

They do it on bass necks!

I don't know if they make longer truss rods, though. That might be nice. If not, it'd probably still work as long as the neck isn't TOO much longer!

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LOL, I too am building a neckthrough, 24 fret SG! The body begins at the 21st fret, ie. thats where the contours of the double cutaway begin. I cut a 3 degree neck angle which begins at the end of the fretboard. Do some searching on the history of the SG and you will find that the early series had some structural problems. The original neck to body area was at the 21st fret, not much wood left on a 22 fret guitar with the pickup routs so close to the edge. Lots of necks were cracking in that area. Basically, because they were set neck guitars with the pickup rout cutting into the neck tenon. Also, the guitar had a relatively thin body leaving very little wood for structural support in the most crucial area at the back guitar. So they remodeled and set the neck to body at the 19th fret and routed the neck pickup further into the body.

My previous guitar is unusual, to say the least, also a double cutaway neckthrough. I wanted full access to all frets so the end of the fretboard is actually not even level with the body of the guitar. I mean, its a 22 fret guitar, but the neck to body area would actually be at 23rd fret. This gave me some room to install a truss rod adjustment hole. Also the 4 degree neck angle ( a little steep, had to sink the bridge) begins a good 3 inches into the body. The neck pickup rout is perilously close to the edge of the body but I found you can get away with this when building the neckthrough style because the back of the neck, where it meets the body, is one solid piece. In reality, thats where the neck turns into the body. I didn't even need to have a very big heel on this guitar. Here are some pics:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288...tulation_page=Y

The only drawback was a question of balance. Because I set the fretboard so far off the body the neck wound up being slightly longer so I had do a little balancing act. I originally had full size Grovers on the headstock (VERY heavy tuners) which I switched to mini Grovers since then. I also hogged out some wood from the edge of the control cavity and poured some molten lead in there. The result is a perfectly balanced guitar which weighs exactly the same as my '88 Am. Std. strat...8 lbs.

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If Im putting in a trem (most probably a floyd) does it affect the neck angle.

Im thinking of a 3degree angle like my epi g400. If Im making a longer scale, neck through and more frets than a regular SG (25 1/2" instead of 24 3/4") I dont think moving the body back about an inch will realy make that much of a difference and also Im using a pretty strong wood(Goncalo Alves) for the neck so that should help.

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It all depends on your preferences, I am considering eighter an SG or an Explorer with the neck thru that Carvin Sales, I will not have an angle the angle is mostly for when you have a carved top or a TOM you need the angle to get the right string action since the TOM is higher than a neck without angle... I will probably use a TOM with string thru like carvin does, this way I can do with out angle... And if you go here you will see that Tommi's SG has 24 frets and the body meets at the 22nd. I will so like this. It looks great.

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if you recces a floyd theres no need for a neck angle, if its flush mounted you either need a neck angle, or a dropoff at the neck (i think wes used 1/8" dropoff for the floyd), if you dont do any of them then you cant get the strings parallel to the fretbgoard, which is really uncomfortable,

Not necessary, the Kramer Focus 1000 that I had was not recessed and I could lay the action all the way down, when you get your Floyd check to see the one that you are getting, there are ones that you need to recess and others that doesn't.

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