LGM Guitars

I get such a kick out of the router love on this site LOL!!!! I wouldn't route it off, that wouldn't even be my 3rd choice. First choice would be a bandsaw. But it has to be the RIGHT bandsaw, I'm not talking a little 14" with a 1/2" blade (although I'm sure you could do it with that too) but a LARGE bandsaw with like a 1.5" resaw blade. Set the body up against a TALL rip fence, cut the top off leaving 1/8" and then run it through a thickness sander. Second choice would be to run it through a thickness sander with coarse belts until you were nearly done, then smooth it out with a finer belt. I would not use a thickness planer for this job due to all the routes in the wood and the fact that figured wood really doesn't work well in a planer. Third choice would be to steam the top off, I've seen this done on a LP and although it's not my first choice, it saves the top and the back of the guitar. Yes, it's very possible and is the only non-destructive method of removing a top. Maybe for a fourth choice I would route it off, but man, this means you need a HUGE router base, and a level jig all the way around the entire body, plus a way to secure the jig and body all together, yeah, it's not hard to do, but in the time it takes to build the jig and router base you could have bandsawed it off or thickness sanded it off. Routers have their place, IMO this would not be one of those places. Just my 2 cents.

Not quite true, I am ONLY doing complete custom guitars and the Leviathans, just not doing the custom mod's to existing guitars anymore.

More than a Mexican Strat, less than an original 59 les paul In the end, after he gets the clear and everything done, he'll have spent about $10,000 Canadian on the paint. The clear is being done at the same body shop who did the prep work on it.

Yup, it will be cleared in the end, as for it being a bit much, I love it, and to each their own

In case you miss it http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16586

4. Now take a curved stencil (I made a few out of photo paper and solvent proof airbrush stencil material) and start to crisp up your pattern, start doing some filling in and start to build the fire pattern. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/stencil1.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/stencil%20and%20red.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/stencil2.jpg 5. Then I goofed and didn't take a picture, but after you lay out your first stencil set, spray the entire thing with a Kandy Tangerine same as you did with the Kandy red. 6. Next, using chrome yellow, start to brighten up the outter edges of the fire as well as the base of the fire. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/yellow.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/yellow2.jpg 7. Next take the same Kandy tangerine you used in step 5, and spray all the yellow back. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/tangerine.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/tangerine2.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/tangerine3.jpg That's all for now, after 16 hours of spraying today, I'm beat, will finish up tomorrow. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/16hours.jpg

Here's some pics for you on the current project in the shop, a 2004 Chevy SSR. Yes, I know it's not a guitar, but the same principles apply! 1. First step was to sand the entire truck with 800 grit, this was actually done by the body shop that will be clearing it (due to lack of a full size booth at my shop) http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/prep.jpg 2. Then using Moly Orange, lay out a loose pattern for your fire. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/map.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/map2.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/map3.jpg 3. After your pattern is done, spray over it with a Kandy red, I like to use a Kandy wine red, it looks darker and deeper (more evil) Don't worry about the kandy overspray if you're spraying on black, you won't see it once the clear is sprayed. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/SSR/red%20...y%20tonneau.jpg

I did read your previous posts, but have you tried Depaule supply? Andy is really good to deal with. http://www.luthiersupply.com/

Too bad for short tone? what's short tone?

I don't mean to sound rude, but if you can post on an internet forum, why can't you order from online stores? No credit card I presume? You can use the fender pickguards, cut them into squares or whatever, and sand them down thinner, the top layer of the pearloid guards is usually about .050" thick, you can sand it down and not lose the pearl look to it.

Sure they would have, see http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16510 Just bustin yer chops bro

See, you could have used enough o's LOL!!!!!

will you ship a blank up to canada?

Maybe during the next 1000 you can work on your spelling Brook - Broke Mabye - Maybe

thought you might dig these http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/dragster/dragster%201.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/dragster/dragster%202.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/dragster/dragster%203.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/dragster/dragster%204.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/dragster/dragster%205.jpg

actually, I will trade for the right larrivee or breedlove acoustic

Bought from Vwall a few months ago. Nice guitar but I never play it, kind of an off white finish (looks like white washed fence, satin finish) a little odd. Some minor finish damage on the headstock that was there from new from hanging on a hanger that wasn't properly protected and a small scuff on the back that was also from new. I got this from Scott for a good price because of the finish issues. Comes with a beautiful Guild fitted case. $550 + shipping lgm@lgmguitars.com Jeremy

Like it says, DEAD mint, like new, showroom, like virtually unplayed condition. This is the trans cherry red finish Parker Fly Classic, composite board, SS frets, mahogany body, Parker tremolo, Full piezo system, fitted case, stereo cable, all literature etc. $1500 firm, no trades + shipping. lgm@lgmguitars.com Jeremy

Hey, I'm never going to finish this, so up for sale I have an Ibanez American Master. This guitar was bought from Scott (Vwall) with he headstock broken clean off. I have put a monkey grip in it, and it was the guitar I tried my first ever lions claw in (not great but it was done to small so it's easy to redo it correctly). The headstock is reglued but has no fretboard on it. I can install a rosewood fretboard if desired. This was the quilted cherry burst guitar, I have no pictures of it before primer was on it so don't ask. I just don't want it anymore, so if you're interested, let me know. I'm asking $300 as is, $350 with a rosewood board glued on (but it will not be fretted, it will be slotted and radius'd) plus shipping. Email me lgm@lgmguitars.com if interested. Jeremy

Nah, Canadians who hate the US, same as American's who hate Canada are just the uninformed minority who scream the loudest. Plus, you have to consider Canada is stuck with yet another idiot liberal leader and that's never done us any good in the past, go figure........

If you have to ask that question, it's obvious you've never been to Winnipeg It's dirty, has the highest murder rate in Canada, roads suck, it's the hardest city to navigate I've ever been in, just one of those places that isn't even that nice to visit LOL As for Duluth, if you're talking Duluth Minnesota, it's beautiful there, I wouldn't want to live there, but they've got some really great area's. (actually, if it was in the US, and I could live there, I wouldn't care where it was at this point, as long as it was in the US )

http://www.thruthewindshield.ca/featurerides.html I feel more proud of this one than the business feature to be honest I'm very proud of my bike and what it represents

heheh, I was just in saska-ma-toooooooooooon this past weekend. I really don't dig saskatchewan at all, nothing big enough there for me, but I'm a city boy, Calgary is bordering on small for me, Red Deer (where I live) is just plain crappy. One good thing about saska-ma-toooooooooooooon is you can get a panoramic view of the city just by standing on a beer can

100% of the guitars I have shipped with the strings loosened have arrived with the headstock and neck intact....over 1200 guitars and basses. 100% of the guitars I have shipped with the strings NOT loosened have arrived minus the headstock.....3 times I forgot to loosen them. I have also received two that had broken due to the strings remaining tight while shipping. When these get shipped from overseas they are packed 6 to a carton and a lot of cartons to a container. They are handled by material handling equipment and not subject to the human element of being tossed like a rag doll at the local UPS or airport terminal. A careless worker can easily toss one guitar hard enough to cause damage. Lifting a carton of 6 does not give you the same advantage. I know we could argue this all day as it has been argued for years but I'm going with what I know from experience. ← I won't argue with you, I've set up probably 1500 guitars that come into local music stores, the only ones there are ever neck problems with are the ones that ship with strings loose. Never once have we had a broken headstock and that includes factory packed guitars (you know, cardboard boxes with the little thin foam bag around the guitar) Either way, you're right, do what works for you. Like I said, my recommendation is to loose the truss rod off as well if you are loosening the strings.

Um actually i was hoping that i would get the kit that i payed for that includes all the parts regardless of what said kit cost. Otherwise why would you buy it? It would be kinda like buying a Kia and not getting the engine or the seats,because it didnt cost much. I am not expecting this to be a Gibson Les Paul,i am expecting it to perform like a 180 dollar guitar,and even the cheapest strat clone has a bridge and i dont even have to put it together. ← Understood, but keep in mind, if you could buy a Kia "kit", pieces would probably be missing. The reason these kits are so cheap is they are built, packed, and shipped typically by unskilled workers doing the jobs for next to nothing pay. This being the case things get forgotten, overlooked, call it what you will. I've seen many "kits" where pieces are missing, even in expensive ones. The difference in a $200 kit, and a $200 guitar (completed) is the guitar has to play before it leaves the factory (maybe not well, but everything is supposed to function). If a part is missing, chances are good it will not function properly. When the kits are being packed, it's likely that the small bagged parts get tossed around and some probably end up on the floor of the factory only to be kicked under a bench somewhere for the rats to use