LGM Guitars

I've bought many tops from buzzsaw, talk to Inez, you shouldn't have any problems, they've always been good to me in the past, even when there were some problems.

This is an obvious question but...... You do have the metal cap off of the end right? you can see the needle and air exit hole from the front? If so, you probably have a bad o ring or whatever kind of seal they are using, since it's an internal mix airbrush the clog is happening between the paint orifice and the tip inside. This is forcing the air back into the bottle. Chances are if you were able to spray laquer thinner through it once for a short time, it had a non compatible seal inside, either the o ring or a bushing that has now swollen up and closed off the passages. Sorry to say but, in the world of airbrushes you really do get what you pay for and at $26.95 with 2 bottles, a cup and a hose, you sure don't get much in the way of the actual airbrush. On the low end for airbrushes you'll spend at least $60 for anything worth having. Only advice I can give is take the whole thing apart and clean it, make sure no foreign objects got into it, and check the seals. Other than that, look for a new airbrush, buy good, buy once, buy cheap, buy over and over and over......

I think it's a good concept, but having that many pieces that need gluing together afterwards leaves a lot of room for error. It appears you have 10 pieces in a completed block. This gives 9 glue joints and chances for error. If that radius surface isn't nice and dead flat you are going to have inconsistencies in your block. Worse yet, unless your blocks are perfectly identical and you glue them together on a perfectly flat surface spaced EXACTLY the same from the edges, you will end up with basically a warped block. If your surface you line them up on has a warp, with each piece you glue together, you'll end up with the same warp. Not knocking your idea, but I'd at least try doing them out of 2" thick pieces and many passes with the router. I also wouldn't use MDF for your block, it's to soft. I guess the big question is, although this gives you the opportunity to make any radius you want, after the time invested in building the jig, and the time it takes to make all the pieces and glue them up, is it really worth it over buying the machined blocks from stew mac? It might be, not knocking it, but I would question the accuracy of the completed glued up blocks. Anyway, cudo's for thinking of a new method to do them, just not a method I would personally use.

Honestly, on my computer screen, with the picture not being great, it looks a lot like alder, how heavy is it?

There was never gonna be an inlay on this one, are you thinking of the 8 string that the dolphins are going on?

Big D, since it's all within canada, shipping isn't a problem, and if it is, I'll load them all into my own vehicle and drive them out. But I've had lots of paints shipped to me within canada, just when you cross the border that dangerous goods really comes into play Thanks for the kind words guys, gotta take big chances in life sometimes

Here is Shane Regal's new Leviiathan 7, just have to finish the setup, cut a new nut (goofed my string spacing on this one) and make the rear covers. Spec's are: Flame maple top Flame maple fretboard Ash body Dimarzio Evolution 7's Graphtech Piezo system Gold side dot inlays Clear coat finish, no stains or anything, just 11 coats of high gloss clear I'm loving the look of this guitar and the feel, the top is 1" thick, how's that for a nice thick top More pics here: http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/leviathans/maple/

Well, the time has come to make a move. I have been fortunate enough to find the woman of my dreams, we are engaged and I am making a move out to the west coast. So, LGM Guitars will be making a move as well. I'm not sure exactly when this will happen but it will hopefully be within the next 2 months. With the current backlog of items in the shop, this means that I am not going to take any orders until the move is complete. For those of you with orders here who have been waiting and waiting, I apologize once again for the delays. As some of you know the shop has flooded 3 times this year which has set me back a ridiculous amount. The new facility will be just over twice the size of the current shop. The big goal here is to get all work completed and shipped before the move happens. Once in the new facility some major changes will be taking place with LGM Guitars. The move will be taking me to Abbotsford, British Columbia, it's about 45 minutes east of Vancouver, and the new shop will be just over a mile away from the US border. To all my loyal and very patient customers, a HUGE thank you to all of you for your patience, and kind words. To all the people who have supported me in times of depression, starting LGM Guitars, and the support you've shown to LGM Guitars, words cannot express the thanks I have to you. There have been many growing pains with the shop, times that have caused me much stress and anxiety, but things look to be turning around. I'm making this move with 100% confidence, but with the knowledge that it will be tougher than ever to start over in a new market place. I feel confident though that once the move is completed, it will allow me to speed up all work, and produce an even higher quality than LGM Guitars has become known for. I will keep everyone posted on the move, and if you have any questions or concerns about current projects please email me. Emails have been backed up lately due to extra hours being spent in the shop trying to complete projects, but they will all get answered. Thank you again Sincerely Jeremy Ferguson LGM Guitars + Graphix

Well, here are a few, kinda dark, but hey, here they are, I was to lazy to resize them, so go click a few links http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/complete/

We'll get some good pics today hopefully, the pics I took yesterday were with a flash and they just went all dark.

The concept evolved out of a lot of discussion Matt and I had, I suggested the boiling blood with the marble edges, and Matt loved it, so we talked a little about how he'd like to see it. Sadly, Matt got pretty sick yesterday and I had to take him home, so I stayed late at the shop and painted, then I painted some more, then some more and then a little more LOL!!!!! Unfortunately, Matt is still pretty sick today, so I'll be doing the level sand, and reclearing today, hopefully he feels better tomorrow so he can final sand and buff it himself (cuz I really don't want to do that to this body LOL!!!!) and so he can get the experience for himself underway. Had to make it look bloody and evil, he is a ministers son ya know, can't have him going home with an angelic looking axe

WOW!!!!!!!! ok, so, my name isn't there or anything, but the good Karma and all sure is!!!!! Check out this article!!!!! http://www.markwoodmusic.com/html/pepsi2005.html The violin Mark is playing in the commercial is one that I painted!!!!!! Talk of premiering the commercial at the Super Bowl!!!! how cool is that!!!!! YEAH!!!!!!

glad matt saw it on here, I didn't want that much drool (or worse) in the shop!

No tutorial or material here, just 5 straight hours of airbrushing bubbles I'll take some close ups of it today, there are 5 skulls, a hand, and a couple other sinister images hidden in the bubbles, you guys didn't really think all I'd do was bubbles did ya

Hehehe, Matt hasn't even seen this yet Matt got sick today and had to go home, since we're running out of time I stayed late tonight and got some paint on the impaler for him, check this out More pics http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2815.JPG http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2816.JPG http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2835.JPG

Thank you for the respect, that is always appreciated. To start with, it's exorbitant hehe, had to throw that in Anyway, if a shop did a poor job installing something, or doing work, take it back, demand it be done correctly or you want your money back. There are a million bad shops and techs out there who will NEVER learn unless they are forced to redo it until correct. Ok, first issue here, as I'm sure you know, your action has to be higher in the upper register than the lower. At the 20th fret you should have a string height of 1.5mm to 2mm (.059" - .079") from the crown of the fret to the bottom of the string. At the first fret you should have about .017mm (.007")from the crown of the fret to the bottom of the string. If your action is to high, you need to lower the bridge, however, in doing this, if your action is already to low at the 1st fret (and you are getting buzzing) you will need to raise the nut with a shim. If this is a lock nut, it is very easy, simply loosen the nut from the neck, and cut a shim from an aluminum pop can to fit under it, you can use business cards as well to cut the shim from. Keep in mind that the nut height will ONLY affect the action on the 1st fret (open string) since after you have a note fretted, any buzzing will need to be dealt with by the bridge action since the nut has effectively become whatever fret you have the string pressed against. Once you have the action at the nut set, try setting your bridge to give you the action you want in the higher register. BUT!!!!!! first, you need to make sure the neck bow is correct, so.............. You want some front bow in the neck. To check your front bow, press down the G string at the 1st fret, and the 12th fret, around the 5th or 6th fret, you want to see a slight gap between the string and the fret, about .004" or approximately the thickness of a sheet of construction paper. This gives your strings some extra neck relief when you are fretting notes. Dead flat will almost ALWAYS buzz, and back bow will fret out and buzz everywhere. Once you have the neck set to the correct front bow, check that gap on all the strings by fretting each one the same way, at the 1st and 12th. If you have less gap on the treble side than the bass side or vice versa, your neck probably has a slight twist, but even still, as long as there is a bit of a gap (relief) you're ok. Neck joint being uneven can certainly cause issues, but shouldn't cause any issues with the bow of the neck or the action. Where it will cause bigger issues is in movement of the neck. Shims in the neck typically are only to increase or decrease the rake of the neck (amount it angles forwards or backwards) for example, if you have brutally high action, and the bridge is as low as it can go, you want to shim the neck to tilt backwards more, this will bring the strings closer to the fretboard and allow you to raise the bridge for more adjustment. If the action is to low and the bridge is uncomfortably high, shim the neck foward to allow the bridge to be lowered into the body more. If your neck is moving side to side, you may want to put some shims in the actual neck pocket itself to make it fit tighter, if the pocket itself is uneven, the neck isn't seating well and there will be high points that it sits on, these will cause it to move badly. If it is shifting to much, you can cut a shim the full size of the neck pocket out of 150 grit sandpaper, glue it or use double sided tape, into the neck pocket, then put the neck on and tighten it, the grit side of the sand paper will bite into the heel of the neck and help to hold it in place. I would only do this as a last resort though, first I would try to determine what is uneven in the pocket and see if some slight sanding or filing will flatten it out. If the neck pocket is uneven, a new neck won't change anything. If the things I've suggested above don't help, then it's likely that your frets are uneven, this will require a levelling and dressing. That is more difficult and something definitely worth taking to a qualified tech to do if you've never done it before and are passionate about the guitar in question. I don't like steel yardsticks, I've seen to many of them that are bowed themselves along the thin edge, I like the hardened stainless straightedges, with ground edges. But, in a pinch, you can check the frets for level with a yard stick (I may be thinking of a different type than godblesstexas is talking about, when I think of a yard stick, I think of those aluminum ones you see in classrooms. I know you can buy a 24" stainless steel ruler though, and those have pretty good edges on them. Anyway, try these things and let us know how it goes. Jeremy

Bet this finish was faster than all of them, probably in excess of 200mph

The truss rod doesn't necessarily have to be broken or not working, if it's a fatal backbow, the truss rod could simply be loose already and the neck is just plain bowed. That's a downside to not having a dual action truss rod (different than dual truss rods, but Ibanez doesn't have either) So it may need to be pressed out with pressure and heat, I've had to do this to a few necks for people, works well in the end, but does take a couple weeks to do properly.

First of all, an ibanez neck doesn't have a dual truss rod. Secondly, you won't be able to tune the guitar period if they are different scale lengths. Intonation will be out by that inch difference. So, the frets will all be in the wrong location. If your schecter neck has a bad back bow, it might be able to be pressed out and then a fret level done. It's a long process, but usually works well. If it has a front bow, the truss rod should be able to pull it out, but you still may require a fretlevel if it's buzzing. If you're not comfortable with doing that yourself take it to a good tech. It might cost more than putting an ibanez neck on, but at least you'll have a neck that works. Schecters are big beefy necks, if you want a thinner neck, recarve the schecter neck to be thinner. If you do that, it may even allow the front bow to come out with truss rod and string tension once the neck is a little thinner.

He didn't forget about it, it was another guitar I was supposed to customize. Sadly, he never paid his bill for past work, so I was forced to sell this instrument to get back what was owed to me.

sold, turns out it was a good deal, it wasn't a pro in the end, it was confirmed a deluxe as BP said, a gibson expert spied it and jumped on it.

price drop, $125US shipped to the lower 48 or canada

Price drop, $1250 USD

bumpity bump bump bump

God I love some of the comments here, completely mindless. "Guarantee's", "worthless", "unplayable", "Unbalanced", "floppy neck' what great comments to make here. The Leviiiathan 8 is available with 36 frets, they're quite playable, they are far from unbalanced, the necks are rock solid, and they are far from worthless. Hmmmmmm, 36 frets, well, lets see, Washburn did it very well with the EC36, I had one, yeah, they were tight, but useless? no, I used them for tapping with the pick edge. I do 8 strings with 36 frets, yup, on a 25.5" scale they are tight, but you can still use regular fretwire, don't have to go to smaller wire, and yes, there is still a gap between them. As for truss rods, you still only need one. Carbon rods are nice as reinforcement, and I use them, but only as a safety. You're not adding a HUGE amount more tension over a 7 string guitar, with a high A string you'll want to use a 25.5" scale length, and yes, it can be done fine, when Ibanez brought out the Universe, Hamer brought out their answer to the 7 string with a high A, worked fine, I know a couple players that use high A's instead of lower strings as well. As for pickups, Seymour Duncan will do custom pickups, just be prepared to wait forever and pay through the teeth, the quality is questionable too after the last batch I received. Dimarzio won't do 8 string pickups, I've tried, seems unless you're Steve Vai, getting a custom pickup isn't happening. It's great seeing some of these comments on here, especially when they are being made by people who have never built the particular guitar in question. Speculation is one thing, but to be saying these comments like it's the gospel truth is ridiculous. The only thing I find impressive about certain members here is how they can still type with their head that far up their butt and both feet in their mouth all at the same time............