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Quarter

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Everything posted by Quarter

  1. Thanks for the update Rich, interesting topic
  2. If 47 is available, I'll take it, or did you mean 49?
  3. Love the stepped quilts like that
  4. The 4th prong on the battery might be for alternate installation options or other tools. My Milwaukee gear is like that, you can flip the battery pack if it gets in the way. Does the battery fit in the charger?
  5. I've never done this, but here is an off the cuff science project. What if you took a piece of PVC pipe, a couple caps and taped in a schrader valve. Roll the veneer up, add dye, pressurize to taste.
  6. Thanks for the tip Hound, I'll have to give it a try sometime. Another thing I've found that can help a little is to angle the board a bit when sending it through. Though, thats not always possible with wide and or very long boards.
  7. Thats going to look sharp ... like your take on the body shape too
  8. LoL ... had me going for a sec ... forgot it was April 1st Guess I'll wait till tomorrow to post about the free band saw combo deal I found
  9. Thanks mdw3332 and lowrider mdw3332 ... good luck with the steel, they are a fun build and a kick to play.
  10. Thanks GregP I am just a hack player on steel but its such a ton of fun to play. I mostly stick with some open E or D as its a little more familiar territory for me. But, the instrument itself is so versatile, it can do rhythm, lead, country, rock, blues, jazz, gospel, you name it. Its really great to see it make it back into todays music a little more. Here is a cool YouTube of a cover of Modern Love by Last Town Chorus
  11. They seem to be Lowes answer to the Home Depots Husky line.
  12. Thanks Tim Tru Oil really does do a great job of bringing wood to life while offering a little more protection than a strait oil. The fret markers are strips of .032 aluminum and the bezel surrounds on the paua is 9/32 aluminum tubing. I didn't get a good pic of the inly on this one, but here is a pic of the same type inlay on a 6 string mahogany build. .
  13. Thanks j. pierce 25" would be considered a long scale, Asher uses a 25" scale too. 22.5" was / is more common, with vintage steels, but then the bulk of those were student models. Though, many say the best sounding Fender Stringmaster was the 26" scale model. Construction is pretty strait forward, no truss rod and no frets to level or dress. Because of the way it is played, you have a bit more design freedom as compared to a fretted instrument. Nothing under the left hand plate, just decoration. The bridge cover is a 3 point mount. There are two 1/4" dowel pins mounted forward in the cover that seat into shallow 1/4" holes in the body. It is held in place with the maple knob that has a 8/32 brass shaft that mates with a threaded brass insert in the body.
  14. Thanks Andronico, I have a blast dreaming them up and then bringing them to life Looks like I screwed up a couple of the thumbnail links, so here they are fixed with a couple more .
  15. I've done it by hand and also using a lint free cotton swatch and often mix the two depending on my mood and where I'm at in the process. Try them both and develop a feel for it. The key in either situation is keep the coats light.
  16. Thanks Strings are at around 7/16, scale is 25", and its strung with 12-14-16-18-22-26w-30-36 Edit: forgot to add, here is a good string gauge chart for steels http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/learning/gauges.html
  17. Thanks Xanthus It's tuned in kind of a hybrid C6 tuning I guess, something that the customer requested, from low to high - C-E-G-A-Bb-C-E-G Its all Tru Oil, it took a bit of effort to build and fill the walnut, but it wasn't too bad. This time around I tried some of their Tru Oil in a rattle can for the last couple finishing coats and it worked ok. I've thinned Tru Oil with mineral spirits and shot it through my gun with good results. Though, the rattle can stuff seems to dry / cure just a little bit faster.
  18. Here is my latest steel Black walnut and birdseye maple 25" scale Lollar reproduction Gibson Console Grand 8-string pickup Tru Oil finish . .
  19. Just a random thought ... maybe drill a tight fitting hole, then tap an appropriate thread for the barrel. To keep it locked in place, use a set screw system much like for a solid shaft knob.
  20. I've been thinking of building one myself, kind of like the looks of this Freud fence http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SH-5-Professio...r/dp/B00005Q7CN
  21. I have one of the cheap Harbor Freight units. While I don't necessarily trust the numbers it reads, I think it can be useful for relative / comparative testing.
  22. I have not used naphtha with Tru Oil, so can be of no help there. It may work, <insert standard test on scrap disclaimer here>
  23. I sand with the grain, then kind of burnish in the "slurry" cross grain with my fingers or palm of my hand. The friction and heat from your hand will work it in and help set it. You want to work it in till you feel the drag, almost dry. Once I get it mostly filled, I just start applying multiple even wet coats, then when dry, block it back with some mineral spirits and some 1000. Rinse and repeat as necessary. Here is a walnut / birdseye lap steel that I'm finishing up. Pic is after a final 1000 blocking and one coat of the rattle can spray. I'm doing one more spray coat, then let it harden / cure for 4 - 5 days before I do the final rub out. .
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