Dylanwad

Has any one used one of these? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...hlink:middle:uk Is it just a gimick or are they usefull?

I did this a while back. If your looking for a buckethead/tom morello type killswitch solder the wire carrying the signal to one post (1) and the shield/earth to the other (2). Then take the wire from the jack socket and do the same again (hot wire to 1 and earth/shield to 2). By using a momentary normaly off (no signal going through unless pressed) it means that your guitar will work as normal until you press the button and it makes contact with earth and cuts the sound. Doing it this way stops you getting hum when the button is pressed.

Thanks for the link biliousfrog, I'll keep them in mind. I considered doing the guitar in flip but decided to keep that idea for another day. The guitar I've got to play with is an old superstrat type thing and I thought that flip would be more effective on something like a les paul because of the curves. I am still very tempted though! There's a guy on ebay that sells it in cans.

By replacing moisture I meant stop it going dry and cracking. I have a guitar I want to do up and the rosewood fretboard is very dry and pale looking compared to the way it used to be.

Is the fretboard conditioner a Lemon Oil / Bore Oil type of product for replacing moisture in the fretboard?

Thanks for the input guys. The hardest part is picking a colour, I can never make up my mind!

The local Halfords is next door to B&Q! Handy. What type of paint are the Halford ones then? I assume they have compatable primer and clear top coat (what exactly should I be calling the clear 'laquer'/top coat?) How long does it take for a coat af paint/top coat from the Halfords range to dry? I suddenly feel like I'm asking too many questions! I'll stop now.

I'm glad to see this thread, I have a goatee (about half an inch growth). Would one of the full face respirators offer me proper protection? I'm getting ready to re finish a guitar for the first time and this topic is a bit worrying. I really don't want to shave the goatee off for several reasons but I am also very keen to try my hand at panting a guitar!

It had a similar trem to the one on this guitar. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gibson-Epiphone-U2-E...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks. Would this be acceptable. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1 The reason I'm asking is that it costs less than a third of the one they sell in B&Q. I'm wondering why it's so cheap. I don't want to buy something that wont protect me properly.

Has anyone ever tried this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gibson-Luthiers-Choi...1QQcmdZViewItem Any good?

Thanks guys. Who would have thought that there are so many types of paint? I seem to have a lot to learn. Better I do it now than find out after painting my guitar and the whole thing has turned into an expensive mess! Should I buy a respirator to work with acrylic paint?

This might help you. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

I dug out my first ever electric guitar (a Hohner Arbour MXJ) from the garage the other day and needles to say it's in rough shape! I need to replace all the hardware and I have a question about the tremelo. The original one was raised off the body, it was a locking type and it looked like something half way between a strat trem and a floyd. I'm thinking of replacing it with a Licenced Low Pro. Will I need a route if the original trem sat off the body? Will the saddles be in the correct place for inotation if I use the original mounting holes? Thanks.

Does any one know what kind of paint the Plasti-kote paint you get in B&Q is (specificaly the super and metallic range). I've had different answers from different people! Thanks.

That looks really good! Nice work.

I got around to sorting the wireing yesterday, fun and games! I bought a cheap solering kit off ebay to do the work. I don't know if it was bad solder wire or the iron not being hot enough but it took forever. I'll admit it's been a long time since i've done any soldering but I don't remember it being like that! The wire wouldn't melt on the tip of the iron, only halfway down the shaft, and when it did it wouldn't stick to anything (even after scoring the contacts), it just fell away in nice litttle silver balls (including into my paintwork . I've now got a moon like surface around my kill switch)! When I finally got it done I tested the guitar only to find that the push to break switch I used worked the wrong way! I replaced it with a spare push to make switch (after more grief from the soldeing kit from hell) and found that it worked as I wanted it to. After some head scratching I realized it was down to the way it was wired, the signal was goint to one post and off the same ont to the jack socket an the other post was connected to earth. It had to be push to make to make the connection to earth to cut the sound! It's been way too long since I messed with any electronics !!! I also plucked up the courage to knock off the nut. I don't know what I was worried about, it came off without any problems.

Thanks Xanthus. These are the switches I used. The one on the right is the push to break switch (I got it from ebay, you shouldn't have any trouble finding one. In fact it's the only design I could find). The one on the left is from RS (http://rswww.com), do a search for spst and it'll be on the third page. I bought it for the plastic ring and button suface. I quite like the sound of the neck pickup but I wouldn't mind replacing the bridge pickup - it's ok but it could do with being a bit more powerfull.

Thanks Biliousfrog, I'll give sandpaper a go.

I love the look of the carbon fibre guitar! Superb work. I've always liked carbon fibre on cars but I've never seen a carbon fiber guitar. Cool!

I need to file down the underside of the new nut because it sits too high. Is there a certain type type of file I should buy? I could only find refrences to slot files with the search function. Should I heat up the old nut to soften the glue before tapping it out? Thanks.

So far I've put on the straplocks, knobs, bridge, tailpiece, relocated the toggle and put in the killswitch. I like the look of the new knobs and toggle. The experience of drilling into a guitar for the first time is interesting! I can't imagine what it feels like when building from scratch, you guys must have steady hands. Knobs and toggle - http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w223/Dylanwad/du-3.jpg I couldn't find a switch that did what I needed and looked the part so I bought a couple of different ones and had a go at using the functional switch with pieces from the other that had more of the look that I wanted. I'm still working on this but here's how it looks at the moment. Killswitch - http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w223/Dylanwad/du-4.jpg

Why do 3 saddles on a tune-o-matic point forwards and the other 3 backwards? Does it have anything to do with the type of saddle? Should I put my Graph Tech saddles on in the same fashion? Sorry if this is a daft question, I've never noticed before!

Thanks Doug. Somethings been done to the fretboard, you can see the messy finish at the end of it. Here's a closer pic of the fretboard. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w223/Dy...fret-agos-2.jpg Should I sand the fretboard down before trying to stain it or if it has been oiled does it penatrate too deeply to bet rid of it?

I've just ordered all the parts but I'm still undecided on one thing. Should I stain The Fretboard black or not? I've found somewhere I can get Fiebing's Leather Dye, it seems to be what people suggest.Would it stain the inlays as well or won't it penatrate them?