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killemall8

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Everything posted by killemall8

  1. killemall8
    Possibly! Except it doesnt change if i do expect it to go well.
  2. killemall8
    I honestly dont think its overconfidence. I am never overconfident in anything. I know things can go wrong any time, and they usually do.
  3. killemall8
    Just a little update, Nothing new here. I take a break for awhile, and things go great one day, then i destroy everything that went great hte next day. too bad, i really thought i had this down.
  4. killemall8
    Dang that neck blank is wide. You could probably have cut off 2" of it and used that extra piece in a multi lam neck.
  5. killemall8
    You can still use 2k if you spray the burst. Pick up some house of kolor kobalt blue ready to spray kandy. About 12 bucks for a 4 ounce bottle that is perfect for this.
  6. killemall8
    Negatory. An end grain joint like that wont hold for a few days.
  7. killemall8
    So I have noticed my thread has really been dead, due to my posts and lack of in progress pictures. I think i might give up on posting updates. I dont think it really helps anybody at this point. Thanks for everybody who has been involved recently.
  8. killemall8
    It has pretty much zero durability. Not too much different than raw wood. At least with the oil i use. It isnt a kind of oil that builds up like tung oil or tru oil. It is in the wood, not on the wood.
  9. killemall8
    They are indeed voids. On veneer this thin they were actually holes. I just filled them with black grainfiller and sanded flush.
  10. killemall8
    Complete. This is more like it.
  11. killemall8
    Thanks Scott. These olive ash veneer sheets were huge, something like 45" long by 20" wide each. I got 3 for bookmatching. I still have 1 whole one left. Here it is with some oil. This kind of wood really took the oil better than i thought.
  12. killemall8
    That is looking mighty fine, sir Scott. I still think zebrawood takes oil better than any other wood i have tried. It looks so great with oil.
  13. killemall8
    Here are some pics of the second olive ash exp. Not messing around with any other finish, just going straight danish oil. Should be a great guitar.
  14. killemall8
    I stopped using a grain filler because it always shrinks. that is why i went to a polyester resin that is supposed to never shrink or move whatsoever.
  15. killemall8
    So, I fully give up my efforts on gloss/ colored finishes. I thought i unlocked the secret with the solares as a sealer, but even with that, which is supposed to dry 100% cured in sunlight ad never move again, it still shrinks into grain. Seems completely impossible but it is still happening. No point in trying anymore. That was the last hope there was, and it isnt working. you would think after 10 years of absolute non stop building i would have eventually gotten it right.
  16. killemall8
    Thanks mike. I ran itno a different issue with this one. Now the finish has started to crack in about 6 places on the top. Have to sand it all off and use an oil finish.
  17. killemall8
    Haha, the camera setting sure makes the guitar pop and dulls the grass. The fretboard is indeed flatsawn wenge. I have used it on my last 3 guitars. I can finally find it locally, so it is probably my standard fretboard wood from now on. i can get a board that is enough for about 6 fretboards for 30 bucks.
  18. killemall8
  19. killemall8
    Man, 5 hours for 1 cut!!?? you sir, have some serious patience. I consider myself pretty patient but that is just absurd to me! I always love my bandsaw more and more every day. Glad building still feels natural to you. I go a few weeks without working on guitars and i forget a lot of things.
  20. killemall8
    I am sure the buffer is a part of the problem. I still gotta figure out the excessive scratching though. I keep running into different problems, so its hard to really get it down when i am not dealing with consistent issues. Here is a spalted maple strat i have been working on. I have always wanted to try a tinted finish like this. Looking good so far, except for the dang fish eyes again. Even though i cleaned it many times before spraying. Fisheyes are the hardest to fix because you cant sand them out without the whole finsh coming off.
  21. killemall8
    Looks amazing Scott. You are equally great at oil and film finishes.
  22. killemall8
    What is crosslinking finish, drak? I have never heard of that term before. The thing is,i know it isnt scratches from previous grits, because i always start with 2000 grit. It is almost like a little grain of sand or something gets under the sandpaper while i am wet sanding, no matter how clean i keep the paper. And if i do it by hand, with the same grit, there are still areas that the 2000 paper seemed to scratch more harshly than others.
  23. killemall8
    I would be ok with it if they were scratches and flaws you had to really look for to find. But the ones on this dont need to be looked for. It looks like a 10 year old used guitar. Scratches everywhere and fine swirl marks already.
  24. killemall8
    There are always different things that cause problems. I finally find a solution to my finish shrinking, then i start having other problems. I dont get why, but ever gutiar i have wet sanded recently ends up getting deep scratches somehow. Even while cleaning the paper every 10 seconds, it still ends up scratching the clear coat in some places. It leaves really deep scratches that look like 220 grit marks, but only in some places. And in some places the 2000 grit marks look a lot coarser. No matter what kind of a sanding block i use, or even if it is by hand, it still does this. I dont know what the deal is.
  25. killemall8
    Here is a prime example of why you cant trust pictures on the internet. In this picture it looks amazing, flawless perfect gloss finish. When in reality, it has an infinite amount of heavy scratches from 2000 grit sandpaper that woudlnt buff out. as well as about 15 mini dimples.
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