killemall8

1 hour ago, ScottR said:

That blew right past me.

Looks great too!

What did you use and how did it go?

 

SR

I used the same 2k brand i normally do, but i found they had a flat finish available.
sprayed it the same way, but only 2 coats total. It doesnt spray very smooth and takes like a day to flatten out.

13 hours ago, mistermikev said:

that walnut piece... man that's nice.  not really a pointy guitar guy myself but if anyone could make one I'd drool over it'd be u.  cudos.  on the other two... just did a really classy job of dusting that outer edge.  do you use a detail spray gun or something?  all 3 look top notch as always.

Yes sir, i use a detail spray gun. super low PSI and hardly any fluid actually coming out. gives you a lot of control.

11 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Yeah, that Walnut is super nice.

Was a dang expensive piece, too. 300 for that billet that i still had to resaw

9 hours ago, ScottR said:

HAVE MERCY!

Looks like you have a nice supply of pale moon.

SR

not quite a good supply. i find a board once every few months and  buy it. wish i had more

First ever satin finish:

On 8/4/2020 at 2:01 AM, peterscott said:

I have also updated my Martin H 28 guitar. I upgraded the bridge that I bought online and have upgraded its bone saddles into a much more better quality one. I would like to share image for the same.. Let me know if any more customization that I can do with my Martin H 28.

 

 

This post was from 5 years ago

5 hours ago, mistermikev said:

that fretboard on that blue 'star' - is it actually blue streaks or is that just the camera?  if so... how'd you get blue streaks in there?  Is a really cool look. 

all yer geetars are stunning as usual.

Not blue, they are black. Pale moon ebony
 

2 hours ago, ScottR said:

You've taken those to a new level.

Now you need to tweak it a bit and make a dragonburst.

'cause that sounds so cool.

SR

People seem to call dragonburst different things.

Do you consider, blue, green and yellow, dragonburst?

11 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Take care of yourself, Luis. Mental health is just as important as physical. 

Trying my best. been a crazy few months for me.

2 hours ago, ScottR said:

What Carl said.

The guitar side of it looks great. Is that a reverse burst you are working on, or is it just at the sandback stage?

SR

Its in the sand back stage. the wood naturally had a color change around the edge there, so its a lighter yellow/ white color. But its about to get a lizardburst finish today.

Been busy. Both with guitars and with mental breakdowns.

2k satin? Which brand? Satin and matte finishes are one area i havent mastered yet

Those satin finished ones look great. What finish do you use?

that looks great. Excellent shape

3 hours ago, ScottR said:

So what I'm seeing is burl bookmatched at the live edge, which left a depression that you filled with epoxy.....correct?

SR

that is correct good sir. Sorry, i didnt realize you meant you didnt know what it was.

16 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Isn't it more like a catalysed polyester casting resin, so a lot more chalky than epoxy?

Thats really what it seems like but it definitely smells like epoxy!

14 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Whilst not quite original as such, I prefer the look of the exterior surface of the main cambium with its pins and textures. Almost like the "shore" of the river table idea. This approach turns otherwise unusable waste material into something interesting and compelling. As long as the underlying mechanics of the guitar are valid, this is something I'd love to try. It just means taking a pressure washer to blow the exterior layers off (unless maintaining those) and drying for a good long time.

Plenty of pahka on Tori....

 

Yes live edge stuff seems to work the best with this. This was live edge but its 1/4" thick, so it isnt as dramatic.

14 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

River tables are so last season, this one is something different! At first glance I thought it's a bookmatched piece of burl with an interesting coloured sapwood or heartwood. That sure looks organic instead of man made!

That was my goal! I wanted it to match the earthy/ reddish tones but still being noticeable. I called it "molten mars"

20 hours ago, ScottR said:

What is this?

And what is this?

SR

The resin i used is called "ecopoxy"

20 hours ago, ScottR said:

What is this?

And what is this?

SR

The resin i used is called "ecopoxy"

30 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Oh no you don't.

You have some 'splainin' to do Lucy.

SR

 

Haha!

Ive had that maple burl top with a live edge for almost a year. It was my plan all along. I glued the top to the body, with the live edge gap between it. Then i poured 2 applications of epoxy with the metallic powder.

This resin dries way different than normal epoxy. Its great! I even ran it through my drum sander to level it and it didnt gum up or melt.

Finally got around to this idea ive had for a long time! it was way easier than i thought.

That is a good looking first build.

Your run in with the misplaced bridge pickup cavity is why i always tell people that the best order of operations is to rout the neck pocket, then drill for your bridge, then pickups. That insures proper placement and alignment.

20 hours ago, Prostheta said:

In that case, it sounds very much essential. Hit myself or @curtisa up if you need anything. 

Been a while, is there a section for video tutorials specifically?

On 7/30/2020 at 9:10 PM, komodo said:

Care to do a mini writeup on your technique for dead perfect back ferrule holes?

yeah i can do that. I actually think i originally learned from a tutorial on here that might not be here anymore.

Its been a while since i last checked in. Hope you are all safe!
Ive taken on way too much work. 12 hour days every day to catch up.

On 6/28/2020 at 6:06 AM, Prostheta said:

That's ridiculous. How can you get any sort of good consistent pressure without either a flat backing platen or at least a tensioner....?

I shouldnt say there isnt a tensioner at all, but a non adjustable tensioner. It only has 1 setting, loose, or tight. and it isnt very tight.
I ended up grinding the platen flat. its a pain but it will work for now.

17 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Can you modify the front rubbing face? Flattening that yourself helps. Post photos of that with the belt off and I'll recommend something. Generally adding a flat face and covering that with graphite tape is the way forward. Very surprised by the lack of a tensioner. Those usually help with tracking also. 

going to talk to grizzly monday.

The platens are graphite, and checking them, they arent even close to flat. Off by almost 1/4" over the 31" length