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Everything posted by Keegan

  1. Electronics ordered and on the way. Now all I need is a bridge, nut, tuners, and strings and it'll be ready to go. I'm just going to re-use the neck off my MIM strat that I took apart. Tapping the heel gives a nice tight percussive vibration. Not quite as much sustain as my Junior, but better than the MIM the neck came off of. I have a feeling it's going to be very quacky. edit: Electronics all wired up and working, woo.
  2. Audio engineering is completely different. Electrical engineering is designing circuits, not what electricians do. I don't think being an electrician even requires college, maybe a vocational college. Make sure your school has Electrical Engineering courses applicable to audio though.
  3. If you want to be sure it's the pickup, you can hook it up directly to the jack and test it. Is it still under warranty?
  4. There are two "channels" on it. The rhythm channel uses just the neck pickup and its controls are on the upper horn. The lead channel is fully configurable with whichever pickups you want(first and second switch on the lower horn) and then the third switch on the lower horn is a treble bleed(.003uF cap and 56kohm resistor) on a normal Jaguar. The volume and tone near the jack are also for the lead channel. Each channel also has different impedance values. The lead has two 1Meg controls with a .01uF capacitor and the rhythm has a 1Meg and 50K control and a .01uF cap. Here's a neat interactive demo of the controls http://www.webrocker.de/jaguar/cms/2007/05...ractive-jaguar/
  5. Mhmm. Here's some Jag goodness for you http://www.last.fm/music/We+Versus+The+Sha...d+Is+for+Lovers
  6. Those are all good combinations. Seems like you still have all the bases covered. You aren't missing much not having the neck + middle in series or bridge + middle in parallel. Plus that gives you the option of going back to a single pickup without having to fiddle with the slide switches.
  7. It wouldn't be weird. Each position has its own solder lugs, they aren't shared like the normal strat 5-way. You can't block 2 and 4. You could have your middle selection carry over to 2 and 4 though, so you just knock the switch all the way one way for pos 1, all the way the other for 3, and anywhere inbetween for pos 2
  8. Planning sort of a modernized Jaguar parts build. Thought you guys might be interested. Specs- Body: USACG Mahogany Jaguar Top-routed, Midnight Wine finish Neck: USACG Maple/Rosewood US-4 headstock, Asymmetric, .850" thickness, 10-16" radius, 24" scale length, 22 frets, 1.650" nut width, 6105 frets, top truss rod adjust, satin finish Pickups: SD Vintage Jaguar Neck RWRP, SD Stag Mag Humbucker Bridge Controls: Custom Jaguar wiring Bridge: Hipshot Hardtail Tuners: Schaller locking Pickguard: Custom Black Pickguard Control Layout: Thinking of building a tube amp Tweed Deluxe-style and 212 cab(with eminence cannabis rex's) to go with it. Now I just need the money to do it
  9. Why wouldn't it move smoothly or naturally? You're just impeding its progress to the outside 2 positions.
  10. You could use just the first 3 positions of the super 5-way if you were so inclined. Or just think of something to do with those extra positions. Or there's this http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/S...itchChrome.html But that's a toggle, sorry. edit: I just had an idea for the 5-way. You could make the hole smaller so that the switch could only travel to 3 positions. If the hole is already cut, you can put a small metal plate on top.
  11. Hmm, it looks like the only difference is the shaft. I was looking at these http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectron.../C/mini_pot.jpg I suppose I could use the original ones if I needed to, but I'm designing a new circuit and wanted to use 500k/250k. I guess I can't go wrong with the original rhythm controls with the original Jaguar neck pickup I'm using. 45kohms of impedance on the neck pickup just seems odd though. Here was my idea, except instead of a jaguar pickup in the bridge it'd have a P-90: Thanks though. I wish they gave specifications on the inside diameter of the rollers.
  12. Will just any mini pot work for the rollers? Or do I need something special? Also, how would a linear taper affect a tone control?
  13. You should be able to get one from a nearby PRS dealer. I don't know of any other place that sells them, since they're stock hardware, but I assume you need it to replace an original PRS bridge. Alternatively you could fill the stud holes with dowels and put a Tonepros in. edit: Here's PRS's adjustable one http://www.elderly.com/accessories/names/p...ld--ACC4006.htm The non-adjustables go for $175 from PRS, so it'd also be cheaper to just get a Tonepros. Here's a cool place I found that sells every kind of tonepros bridge imaginable http://www.marquisdistribution.com/store/index.php
  14. You can get #10 threaded inserts and machine screws at any hardware store. #8 might do too, but I stuck with 10 because that's the size of the normal neck screws. If you want to buy online you could try ebay or Ed Roman sells a kit(though it costs way more than the hardware itself would, $20): http://www.edroman.com/parts/IS_specialparts.htm#DCK Woodcraft has the inserts, but I'd stick with their 8-32 because the 3/8" pilot hole for the 10-32 might go through the side of the neck. http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?Prod...p;FamilyID=1048 Machine screws are easy to find, you probably want 1-1/2" length, measure your neck pocket to see. It's better to buy hardware in-store though.
  15. If you're just going for standard 3-way Gibson wiring, all you need is Single-pole. Double or four pole might be easier to find though, they'll work too. It might be easier to go to 5-way PRS-style switching though, since 5-way 4-pole rotaries are available at most guitar parts places. http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectron...W/wdu_hh5r11_01
  16. Blackstar and Blackheart also sell some good low-cost tube amps, but are going to be louder than the Vox. You can drop the gain by switching to a different preamp tube though.
  17. Will this do? http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.p...mp;d=1140981189 edit: This one might be better http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.p...mp;d=1148506552 Yet another, more detailed than the first but with single coil routes unlike the second: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.p...mp;d=1140294031
  18. I prefer silver, cobalt, and aluminum to rock. If I had to choose a type of rock I'd go with bloodstone though.
  19. Well if you try to make an LP well-balanced and more modern looking you kind of have to end up with that shape, haha.
  20. Not sure of the specs on PRS SE necks, but they're supposed to be wide and fat. Agile has some 1-3/4" wide necks but they're only 21.5mm at the first fret. Classic Vibe Squiers have C-profile necks, which are pretty thick. If you want a cheap guitar with a fat neck, you could just get an SX and put a Warmoth neck on it. That'd run you around $350, about the price of an Epiphone.
  21. Hmm. I wonder if anyone has reverse engineered one.
  22. Duh. I looked all over for it, sorry. Who'd you have to kill to get a vintage wide range?
  23. Is that a re-issue wide range?
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