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rubber314chicken

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Everything posted by rubber314chicken

  1. I would use maple for the dark parts, then dye it black so it looks like ebony.
  2. if you use a .020 saw, you would probably get close to .023 in the slots just by cutting them because your hand isn't perfectly stable, so it would wobble, taking that extra .003 out.
  3. i'd love to see those on the pickup winder. could've stalled it out...
  4. 2 more ideas I've gotten: extend frets all the way up until the maple, so it looks like it has a lot of frets, but they were cut off to make room for the maple make the maple a hair higher than the rest of the body.
  5. 26" scale legnth!!!! yeah right. that neck is gonna snap randomly
  6. maple is usually finished with lacquer
  7. take the South from the neck, and put it directly to the right middle lug, and ground the right lug of the pot, and take out the other wire from the right lug of the pot. Then it will be perfect. -note I am talking about doing it from the one in #17
  8. I'm liking it. I would make the lower horn a little bigger, and use a 1/4" thick top for the teardrop, and have the grain running the length of it. that way, you get the benefits of having grain parallel to the neck, and the cool looks of the grain angled with the teardrop. the teardrop would look cool in spalted maple, bookmatched like this (with the "volcano"), and have a dark contrasting wood for the other parts, running parallel to the neck. The neck would look cool made of curly maple, with a purple heart strip down the middle. As for the armrest, maybe make it like a strat, but cut it down, so its smaller in size? And for the head, maybe like an arrow head, cut like a fender style headstock, but instead of being flat, its curved back.
  9. yeah, the frets are pretty snug in the slots, and I'm using superglue.
  10. no, 500K is brighter (more highs) 250K is more lows. 500K is used with humbuckers, because they usually have a bassier output, and 250K used with single coils, because they are very bright.
  11. titebond isn't a gap filling glue. epoxy is, and I've read people saying they cut .030 slots, and use CA.
  12. I decided against getting my board slotted, and just did it myself.
  13. yeah, I had to order some more stuff from stew-mac, so I just got the .25 saw. that and cyanoacryalate(super glue) will make perfect fret installation easy.
  14. which do you like better, wfret, of measuring?
  15. n/m what I said. I've been looking at it for 20 minutes, and if you take the south from the neck, and put it directly to the right middle lug, and ground the right lug of the pot then it will be fine.
  16. no, because the south isn't grounded. this is the pest you could do with a push pull pot. it will not work with the selector on the bridge position. to do that you would need to have a 3pdt switch. oh and the ground on the bridge coil- that is just the ground off the phase shifter.
  17. Sounds like an excellent way to add wear and tear and melted plastic to a perfectly good bandsaw blade... you'd be surprised. the plastic mostly sticks to the piece you are cutting.
  18. in the jp one, in series, it only uses the neck pickup, volume.
  19. ca is accelerated by moisture. so the rosewood was probably still pretty wet, as Maiden said.
  20. use you biggest bandsaw blade to cut plexi, and smooth the cut with the back of the blade (the side, but dont get the piece near the teeth.. viola!! a perfect cut piece of plexi. the heat from the friction will smooth the edge of the plexi.
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