asm

yes, yes i do. actually i just like to try different things if they arent to much trouble to make work... ive got a usb keyboard laying in front of me right now, its the square type pin plug like in the pic i posted. and when i plug it in its kind of a pain to get out, because the recpticle connector is also a box, and when they are inset each other its alot of side contact area, so there is no side to side motion, and they have a little lip that requires to you kind of tug it out. frickin thing is actually harder to unplug than any 1/4" trs ive ever seen soooo... dunno. look likes it would work, im easy on cables to. i just was making sure the connector could handle audio applications as i may be epoxying a connector in the side of my guitar one last chance..... you sure it would work? lol

im following you guys! thx for all the replies! check this out.... if i use usb connectors and use one of the 4 plugs for a ground, and use hi quality mogami shielded cable where could that go wrong? usb plugs fit tight to so i dont think that would be a problem! this is becoming an intresting discussion. thanks guys! keep em coming

so instead of an on board battery have a remote power source for active pickups? or did i read that wrong? hmm, so that would leave only 2 post. you sure thats enough contact area? looks pretty small. but then again i dont know how much is needed, cant figure its alot coming from a guitar before the amp. but i may be wrong.

lol

well, the joint is completely different. and when your talking about joining the two main pieces of the guitar, it does produce different results. heres a glue in mortise/tenon joint: and heres a bolt on joint: you can see it doesnt have that tight fitting joint like the glue in one.

ok, theres both ends of the connector. i think i might epoxy the connector into the guitar so i dont want to pull it out. do you belive that is enough contact area? and how would i wire it? 3 for data and 1 ground or data+/data-/ground and then leave one empty? thx for the help so far!

AMPED!

i agree, but since you have the signal split up over 5 or 6 smaller pins instead of one big one that could cause problems? and exactly how much surface area do you need?

oh, and the connector would only be different on one end, the guitar end, the amp end would be typical 1/4 inst cable

nice post man, i appreciate it, i kinda allready know all about cables and all, ive made quite a few xlrs. i was planning on just using a different style connector though, and was wondering if the connector could mess up the signal any. i'll be using some good mogami mic cable and was just wondering would a connector like usb, firewire, cat5, midi or any other ones cause any problems and for what reason. see what i mean? thx for the response!

hmmm what do you think about this, its the cable, not the connector, ill just be using the connector of this cable but i guess its only as fast as its connector right: The backplane version uses two single ended signals and operates at 12.5 [TTL], 25 [TTL], or 50Mbits/sec [bTL or ECL]. The cable (differential) version operates at 100, 200, or 400Mbits/sec, [800Mbits/sec for 1394b] using half-duplex [full duplex 8B/10B encoding for 1394b]. Devices on the bus are Hot-Swappable. It supports up to 63 devices at a maximum cable distance between devices of 4.5 meters. The maximum devices on the bus is 16 allowing a total maximum cable distance of 72 meters. Transmitting data over CAT5 cable allows data at 100Mbps to travel 100m [1394b]. Fiber cable will allow 100 meter distances at any speed [depends on the type of fiber cable]. ------------------------- also check out this: http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_Firewire.html#e any advice on if that would work fine? thx for the help so far!

sweet. ill check into it, do i have to have a ground btw?

great! to save me some time, what are some cables i should stay away from?

i thinking about using a different port instead of a 1/4" instrument cable to connect to the guitar. my question is, how much information is passing thru from the guitar, and why couldnt you just use like a midi cable or a cat 5 or an xlr and just tie all of them together except for a ground and have the same thing as an instrument cable? would this work? thx for any help!

ive seen two ways so far. doing it by hand and a chisel, or making a angled router jig, sorta like a slope for the router to go up. i think somone posted a pic of it a while back, do a search for it too.

ive heard some *bad* stuff about titebond, such as moisture retention, long dry time, possible warpage, ect. on the other hand ive only heard good stuff about epoxies, and supposedly they are supposed to be better for resinous woods, faster dry time, clear glue lines, as strong/stronger than wood glue, ect. soooo.... i was thinking of just using all epoxies instead of titebond for my project. what are the disadvantages of epoxy? all i can think of is cost wise it may be a bit more. please share any ideas and experiences with epoxy too

i cant find any of the mp3s? got any links to them?

yeh, im sure they have some difference, but seriously. alot more depends on pickup choice, scale, fret size, string guage, nut and tuning setup than the difference between Black walnut and Claro walnut. now, there is an obvious difference between hard maple and walnut, but comeon

65" ? you sure?

its the same thign as black walnut per se. same family wood i believe. claro is just a different breed of the tree, one that just grows in the valleys of california and surrounding area. sometimes they grafted the trees with english walnut and it makes for some amazing grain variations. personally i would just finish it smooth and put a clear over it, to nice of a wood to put any dye or stain on.

i think most people stray away from maple top and body because its possibly to bright sounding or not enough contrast. dont see to many 3 piece thick bodies. alot of people will probably say thats alot more glue lines than necessary

check guitarbuild.com for cad files, one might have bridge holes in there. check out warmoth.com, they usually have drilling and spacing dimensions for popular bridges. alot of people print off templates from a cad file, scale it 1:1 and print it out then just tape it over plywood and cut it out, then theres your hard template.

any nice koa is gonna be EXPENSIVE. i mean killer expensive. the reason you see it on the back of an acoustic is that its reasonably thin. if you want a carvetop solidbody expect to pay around 300+ for a flame top. even plain grain koa isnt cheap. wenge is real nice, dark and hard, difficult to cut and sand though. good for lows. paduak i havent figured out yet. you dont see a ton of people using it for guitars, some but not alot. you can get a highly figured piece of it for reasonably inexpensive, i dont know why though, mass availability or not the best tone wood would be my guest.

i think its a real good deal. especially with the case. real gibson cases are around 100$ used i think. keep in mind about the finishing though, if you want to do a nitro coat then youll need a gun, and if you plan on dying it or burst then extra cost and effort.

that looks pretty sharp. i like the body wood alot. i would go with a matchign headstock wood however to make the colors flow a little better. i like the inlay pattern, a good bit but not over done and complicated. never seen a TOM setup on that body, looks pretty nice. i think it might look better though if you took off the bottom right control section (with the 3 switches). and incorporated it somewhere else. i like how the control panels mesh in with the pickguard. NICE!