asm

metal jam trax?

i got my 2" bolivian rosewood slab resawed, bookmatched, glued and then thickness planed. as well as a 4 piece laminate ebony back glued up and thickness sanded. all for 80$. 52$ might be a bit steep if they are just joining and sanding. but, i think the average woodworking hr. wage is like 20-50$, so technically yes, but thats not to hard of a task

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=10693

could go the graphite rod reinforcement route. unseen and helps the strength. exactly how much basswood are you planning on using? edit: sorry, its late, thought you said basswood and maple Neck.

went pretty smooth, definately looking alot straighter: distance shot, not bad not bad. little more sanding with 320 on a block truss rod loosely fitted in: access hole hacked out, since this pic its been cleaned up alot more, will have pics tomm. due to obvious access problems, i had to order a different truss rod, one with a 1/8" allen head in the rod, so i dont have to worry about fitting a socket in the cavity. the new rod came in this afternoon, so tommorrow i'll silicone it in, glue on fingerboard, and take some pics of the back cavity plate i routed. Stay tuned!

about 15min into sanding. YUM! cancer cocktail! epoxy, ebony, and graphite dust, a 3in1 combo! about an hr of sanding later. now were getting somewhere. pretty and smooooth! cut off some of the way-excess waste off the headstock, starting to look like a neck now! (not really though) next problem to tackle is where to scarf joint monstrosity was...this should be interesting.

10 weeks later i come back to this, lol, not very inspiring Sorry for not having pics during this section, didnt have access to the camera for the day. i routed 3 channels, 2 for the graphite reinforcement rods i got from Lmii, and the stewmac hot rod truss rod. i didnt have a handheld router, so i set a jig up on my mini shaper table, drilled a similar small hole for entry of the router bit, then just took about 1/16" passes till it got done ( a long time ). then, when testing the depth of the channel with a small test piece of graphite (about 3"), it got stuck in the channel and i couldnt get it out. what a nightmare, i had to drill it out then break pieces of it off with a chisel and dremel tool. took about 3 hrs for that fun adventure. stuff is insanely hard, its like a mix of carbon fiber and steel. kills the sharp edges on tools. so when that was done it was time to pop in the graphite rods for gluing. i used Smith's All Wood Epoxy like i used for the scarf joint which turned out pretty nice. Except this time i didnt use any dust since its hidden. the right side rod went in great, nice and right below the surface. the left one was a major pain, when pushing it in, it would never seat all the way down, so i pulled it back out, scraped some epoxy out, then clamped it back in to try and press it in. helped alot but still sticking out about 3/16". so i just left it to deal with later. used a bit to much epoxy, i cleaned up alot of it but still got alot all over the place. i used a piece of tape to mask off the truss rod channel so no epoxy would run in and cause problems/more work later down the road. close up of the excess epoxy and graphite rod exposed: time to sand this neck flat. used a piece of 1/4" plexi i had laying around. adhesed (sp?) 2 pieces of 180 grit Klingspor paper down using Super 77 then went to work.

ive got a black js100 for sale. completely stock and is in excellent+ condition (thats saying alot cause its black paint) and with a padded hard case. let me know if your interested. t

i'd say forstner bit, then alot of hand sanding to bring the lip down so its not so steep. man that prs looks so badass.

oh come on. its tv yellow, youve GOT to relic it and the 'wings' on the p90's look a bit off.

hmm. my last scarf joint did that with the thick epoxy i used. stuff was so thick it wouldnt seep out of the side and give a good wood to wood contact. nerve racking!

about the bandsaw problem.. soo... you took a completed neck, turned it at an angle and on its side with the headstock flat against the table and pushed it thru? and you expected to get a straight cut. lol. man, your asking for it with something like that. play around with making jigs and fixtures. will help out alot if you have to do something like that in a hurry!

sure body type has a bit to do with sound, but think about construction (set neck or neck thru) material, pickups, scale, and what amp its thru and the processing before it. thats alot of factors. just get it and play the thing. worry about that stuff later. the guitarist from Nothingface plays a black gibson hollowbody tuned to B thru Randall amps and it sounds BRUTAL. so dont let that be the judge of the sound just yet. t

its towards the back of the neck. that way you get maximum clearence for your truss rod cover. if you had a angled headstock it would actually stick out pretty far if you put it the wrong way. ps- its 'wrench', not rench

what do you mean doesnt mess with with the original signal? i'd go rack Lexicon unit and find someway to control basic controls via footpedal. comparing a lexicon to any sort of combo pedal is not even in comparison. they have a large line, so you can spend 100 to about 8000.

for the gibson style angle you can go with this one or the one im replacing it with. are you building your own neck or buying one? they are the same length, ect, i just would have to make the access pocket bigger on mine, which i didnt want to do because im having neck thickness problems during construction. t

im not using a fillet though, filling up the channel with silicone. thus, making everything nice and quiet *except* for where the silicone wasnt, between the plastic and the rods.

doing a survey-ish type of thing on tuning machines. name your favorite tuner and WHY you like that one. remember, tuning machines, not chromatic tuners t

of the people ive seen shoot over gold and silver leaf, the clear wasnt their problems, its just really difficult to work with, really delicate and hard to adhere. dont know if that helps much but it may be a bit more assuring. i dont know why it would discolor the actual gold leaf, dont think thats possible. t

my headstock angle isnt as much as i planned, so rather than carving a larger access hole for the rod im going to get a 1/8" allen nut rod. this is a 1/4" Hex nut rod. never adjusted, completely new except for that i took off the red plastic tubing off the rods so they wouldn't possibly cause rattle. 10$ t

ive been in college these last 8 weeks. the woodshop i use is 4hrs away, so i cant work on anything here, no space anyways : ( ill be back to work on her in 2 weeks. cant wait. gonna be rusty starting back, but oh well. just wait till i start work on my prototype bridge. will definately turn some heads with this thing, been working on the idea for weeks

if you guys are "so mature", then why are you still in this post? and why even bother posting? shouldnt you have just gone to work or something, and laughed it off? or do you not have anything else better to do?

yes old wise man, i take all of your praises and get them tattoed on my forehead. since you are the all-knowing being. good grief man get off your high horse. you think that AGE has anything to do with respect? your way off

no problem! do you plan on doing the wing style, or wings for the body and then a solid top? one advantage for the neck thru is cost of wood is less usually, and that the neck is easier to compelete and assemble to the other pieces. keep in mind the cost of the wood for the neck though if your doing laminates, as the neck thru design makes it about 13" longer depending on what style body and what cut/thickness your going for.

when did i "slam" you? what are you talking about?