avengers63

Restoration AD blade strat set. Hands down the best pups I've ever had. After that, I'm a sucker for DiMarzios and the old Teiscos.

Great input from everyone. It's all much appreciated. Let's not lost track of the goal - Something really basic that will make a reasonable clean sound for use as a test amp in the shop. I don't need any more than conversation-level volume, no overdrive, no tone knobs. Just pure, basic, clean amplification for the workshop. For a speaker, I could honestly care less what's used. If I could get away with it, I'd scavenge some stereo speakers and use them. If I had to get a "real" guitar speaker, I might as well get a used practice amp and be done with it.

Early on, I was using a brand new chisel. It slipped and went right into my finger, spewing blood all over the chechen. I went wailing into the bathroom. The wife came running, wanting to help ME. I sent her in to get the blood off of the wood so it wouldn't stain it too bad. We still laugh about the priorities on that one. I haven't had any belt sander mishaps that drew blood. I HAVE had the cheap-a$$ table saw I have grab a chunk and send it shooting across the room like a missile. I do whatever I can to avoid using that thing now. I hate it when I'm routing around the edge of a straight piece and the bit hits the end grain and wants to blow up the wood. I dang near load up my drawers every time.

According to Bob Flexner, Tru-Oil is a polymerized oil, which turns it into a type of varnish, and Danish Oil is really an oil/varnish blend. They may have started as linseed oil or have been mixed with it, but they aren't the same thing. A couple of quotes from the book, both from chapter 5: Understanding Oil "They (oils) also cure soft. /snip/ You can't build a thick, hard, protective film on the surface of the wood the way you can with film finishes. " Polymerized Oil "This (polymerization), or an equivalent process, is what is done to /snip/ Tru Oil." This changes the oils so that they complete their curing rapidly /snip/ and it makes the oils cure hard and glossy. In contrast to normal linseed oil and tung oil, it's possible to build the oils to a thickness on the surface of the wood" So while Tru Oil may have started as an oil, it has been chemically altered, no longer behaves as one, and for our purposes shouldn't be considered one. It should be classigied as a film finish because it can be built up, just like the "big three". You're right that the "big three" don't give the oiled finish feel. The closest you'd be able to get is with only one or two coats of shellac that's been buffed with steel wool. It won't be as "slick" as oil, but you can still feel the wood. My honest suggestion would be to get some Tru Oil and linseed oil and test them both to see which one you like better. They both behave differently and will give a different result. Wez & I can peacefully debate the semantics all day long and never help you as much as that would. I can offer first-hand testimony that Danish Oil and linseed oil feel very different, and that linseed is far superior in that realm. The end result also looks better. But that's also MY feel & taste, not yours.

First, a true oil (not tru-oil) will offer no protection against moisture and hand sweat. If that's what you want, you need a barrier finish. Look at lacquer, poly, or shellac for that. The tru-oil that's mentioned will build up a thickness as well, but I'd still use one of the main three for a barrier finish. To answer your question, I use boiled linseed oil. It's the only oil that actually cures, and thus keeps the wood looking nice. It gives the wood a nice slick feel while both keeping the "wet" look and retaining the natural wood feel.

I screwed it together. Like with any other blank, the side pieces were wider/longer than the final shape. The end at the neck actually came to a (relatively) sharp point that would be 100% waste material. Since the front was waste AND hard to clamp together, I used a couple of screws. The clamping pressure of the screws were a LOT more constant that I'd have been able to get with clamps, considering the angled sides. The back ends of the wings were pulled together by hooking the arms of the clamp around the points rather than letting the normal clamping pads be the focal point. They stayed on the points a LOT better. The rest of the body was just additional clamps locked in at weird angles, hoping that they stayed on.

Use another solution. The LM386... doesn't produce sufficient level for use in a band situation. I just want something to have in the shop for when I wire up a guitar so I can test it right there.

I was making a bunch of notes about the guitars I have thus far. 2/3 of them have either a maple neck or are some sort of lam with maple as the main wood. Sure, maple is great as a neck wood, but dang... there are just so many other woods available.

I'm trying to decide how best to rout the long, tapered bevels into the body. I decided that long, tapered shims stuck to the side of the body was the answer. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll be stuck with an even bevel all the way around. It worked, but the geometry was off somewhere as the bevel didn't extend all the way to where I wanted it. Instead of making new shims, I re-positioned them. The transition is a bit uneven, nut it cleaned up very quickly with a rasp and sandpaper.

Will you just finish this d@mn thing already!!!!! :D

It runs off a 9v supply. So, to make sure I'm understanding you correctly.... Making it a pure clean amp ain't happening, and the best I can do is just keep the gain pulled as far down as possible.

I pulled this uber-basic 1/2 watt amp schematic from runoffgroove. I got it wired up and working. It doesn't sound bad at all. What I want is to pull the component out that pushes it into overdrive. All I want pure amplification so I can use it as a test amp. Any clue as to what I'd need to do?

neck pocket - tight enough for a bolt-on not a huge amount of meat on the bottom, so I'll be using a plate instead of ferrules And my life might have become much easier. Check this out... That's where I can reach without trying at all. That line between the index and middle is the 17th fret. The end of the heel is midway through the 24th. I'll be able to easily reach everything, which means I'll not have to do any kind of cutaway. YAY!!!!! :D It pays to have huge hands and long fingers.

Don' sweat it, jack! I be fina re-doos one of 'em. Yea Wez, that sparkle or gold pearl would be pretty sweet on it. It'd cost a pretty penny for me to have it painted, too. God know knows how much a gold pearl job would run.

I seriously considered some big rocker switches from Radio Shack. They'd have fit the theme just as well. Bit i always hated them, so mini-sliders it is. If i had an extra rotary switch, I'd put in a varitone instead of a normal tone. that's give me all the excuse I'd need for some chicken head knobs. A gaudy, fug finish, huh? You mean like THIS.....

Isn't that ironic. You're the reason I tried a recessed/multi-level headstock. For the overall headstock shape, I was looking for something that would be in line with the goofy 60's Teisco headstocks. None of them really fit the guitar well either. If it doesn't fit this one... mission accomplished.

make me a good offer

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=380211189424 Yes eBay. Not Canada. Not really sure where, but in America. IDK how good it is yet, but it's better than some of the cheap-o hardtails I've bought for $10.

All debate about burning or not aside, it's kinda retarded not to take the re-usable parts off first... like the bridge. Now it'll be charred & scorched up.

No, there isn't. That just translates into more prep work and a solid test fitting of everything. Speaking of which.... I did my test fit yesterday. The string cleared the frets with plenty of height left in the bridge screws. The pups are pretty close to the strings, so I can't lower the neck any further into the body. So with all that set, it's time to start finishing the body. Hello, rattlecans! I'll empty the three partial cans I have, then see how it looks after a leveling sanding. I'll probably start with the MISTO sprayer after that. I buffed the neck to 1000 yesterday and gave is a light linseed oiling. I'll probably give it another oil wipedown this afternoon. Now I gotta figure out a t/r/c.

I like it hot too, but the wife can't handle hardly any spice. Truth be told, I'd rather have some kind of Queso. But then again I love cheese. like you can't tell I like the cheese from some of my builds

Lookie! No voulte this time! And this brings us completely up to date. Today I plan on doing the control cavity and a test assembly with a string to test for string height and clearance over the pickups.

tuner recesses walnut veneer clamping cauls veneer being glued on

Here's the original neck. It's going to be really pretty when I get it buffed and oiled up. This is the new neck. Maple & makore base, makore accent stripe in the scarf, and a maple headstock.

Same here on both counts. The "sand through on the edge" solution really made me feel like a dubma$$.