avengers63

Ummmm..... Yea! If this one is 100% better, then yes it's a whole different thing. It's pure coincidence that it looks exactly like the one I posted some pics of just to show off.

Thanks. The inlays into the maple wouldn't have been possible had I not made individual templates for every one. As for routing in those small corners... the Dremel is your friend. Those teeny bits got really close in, which made sharpening them up with an X-acto pretty easy. Once they were all epoxied in, I cut them down with a Japanese-toothed flush-cut saw. Man, that thing chews through wood like it's butter.

More noticing stuff in the background. I love it. We found those a couple of years ago. They were at the end of the driveway with a FREE sign on them,so the kids brought them home. They thought they were going to paint them for their rooms. After letting them sit there untouched for 9 months, I claimed the best of the bunch and disposed of the other three. They never noticed. I use that thing constantly - usually at the scroll saw, routing inlays, and during assembly, and other fine detail work. It's really a used-up POS, but it still holds my butt off the floor and I don't have to worry about messing it up, so it's perfect.

You & a lot of other folks here.

You know me better than that, hoss!

I decided that this body shape is called the JM Classic. walnut thinline body canarywood neck w/ walnut accents ebony fretboard w. canary, walnut, and white binding 4 Teisco pickups Rickenbacker style bridge Teisco vibrato white pearl pickguard

Perhaps my own Instrument Of The Bards. (RPG nerd joke FTW!)

I love my scroll saw.

I never cease to be amused at what folks notice in the pics. It's a 1 1/2 year old walnut log that I can't split but the wife won't let me keep in the garage. If I could split it, I'd have split it into boards 6 months ago like I did the others. They're all finishing drying under one of my workbenches. I figure to try and do something with them next Summer.

NECK teak neck flamed maple fretboard art deco inlays cocobolo faceplate cream binding for neck & headstock INLAYS cherry cocobolo goncalo alves yellowheart BODY 1"+ white limba base 1/4"+ cherry pinstripe 5/8"+ spalted maple top (I say "+" because I don't remember exactly how thick the pieces are, but they're at least as thick as the number listed) I'm currently planning out the carve on the new top. I might go for a cream binding on it as well. Maybe not. Like so much of this build, I'm really just letting the wood tell me what it wants to be, and the guitar tell me what it wants me to do to it. That's how the headstock and inlays came to be. gold hardware Wilkinson Imperial tuners Gotoh TOM resonator trapeze t/p Gibson P90 pups This one happened because I stumbled across some teak on the cheap. The first top was bookmatched hackberry. That ended up really looking like crap, so I planed it all off and went with the spalted maple. Y'all have already seen some of the inlay pics, but here's the whole thing in context.

Seems like a good idea.

Yep - eBay. Seriously - where else are you gonna get a radiused, slotted, pearl/abalone inlaid ebony fretboard for less than 1/2 the cost of the inlays alone? Just a radiused & slotted ebony f/b would be what... $50 retail?

You're not alone there, buddy. A couple of weeks ago, I had a 2"+ thick maple & walnut neck blank I was going to use for a back bolt. Well, the body I'm putting it on is too thin, so I split it and made two identical blanks from it. I scarfed them both then went to even out the face of both on the jointer. Something was SERIOUSLY out of whack on it because after 3 -shallow- passes (or so I thought) one edge was 1/8" thinner than the other. I didn't notice it on the first one I "jointed", so I accidentally ruined BOTH BLANKS! Oh, I'm surprised you didn't hear my head explode. I went absolutely ballistic. But it happens. I calmed down, and the next day I made a new blank that's cooler than the original. Sometimes ya just gotta start over. pics got posted while I was writing the post.... W-T-F is that? Were you trying to get him to make two blanks from one board?

canarywood neck with walnut scaf accent ebony fretboard - Washburn factory 2nd - no signs of any defect the f/b was way narrow, so I widened it out with 1/16" canarywood & walnut strips, then white binding. The end result is triple binding These pics were taken right after I put on the linseed oil, so it's all a little wet looking. The inlays were factory installed, as was the radius and fret slots. Not a bad buy for $29!!!! I picked up a different rosewood f/b that was radiused, slotted, bound and routed for trapeziods for $11.50.

Welcome back! I fave PH some thought for the lams, but decided against it. I didn't think the purple wood would look alongside the purple paint. They wouldn't match up closely enough. I AM using it on a different neck I haven't shown y'all yet.....

Did you do something similar? Can you please link the post? Because that's the template I have. After sleeping on it, I think I've changed my mind. I have some granadillo & bubinga left, and they're pretty close in color to the makore. The makore is pretty uninteresting to look at. I took a look at the other woods I've used for a f/b, and they're all way harder than makore - even the flamed & birdseye maple.

In the neck, it's thin lams for pinstripes. I'm still gonna have a go at it for the f/b. Thanks for the input though.

I cut the pieces for the replacement neck today - the one that will get the pearl V inlays. It'll be a 9-piece maple/makore neck with a makore fretboard. Not nearly as sexy as the canary, but it'll show off the inlays quite well. And I don't recall seeing anyone use makore before.

..The fretboards... Don't tease me, you hussy!!!

Speedbor http://secure.newellrubbermaid.com/irwin/c...IrwinProd160002 I have one. I didn't like it. The screw end pulled the rest of the bit faster than the wood would allow it to go. Made a real mess of the whole thing. Maybe I was doing it wrong - I don't know.

Yep. And a Washburn s/c in the middle.

All I can add is that shellac takes forever to dry. When I'm brushing on mine, I wait at least a full day between coats.

No lavender for me. It'll be medium to dark. I'm actually going to re-do the neck. I got past inlaying the dots when I remembered that I have a set of pearl V inlays I had set aside for this exact project. It's not like I can't or won't use the neck somewhere else, but DANGIT! I might even finish it up and put it on eBay to recoup the investment. That would make it easier to re-do the entire thing since I have issues with using the same woods in different builds. Right now, I have a BUNCH of options. NECK: granadillo, bubinga w/pinstripes, maple, makore FRETBOARD: canary, chechen, makore, bloodwood I need the neck to balance tonally with the mahogany body, and the fretboard to contrast with the inlays.