riffster

I glued my frets in last month on my guitar build. I figured it won't hurt and it just gives me a little more piece of mind.

Sounds really cool. I have always been fascinated with the look of Brian May's guitar. I was reading your specs of what it will be like at it sounds like a very comfortably playing fast guitar. Lookin forward to it

The links don't work to msc direct for some reason. The part # of the cutter diameter that I saw was C92704. Again, the cutter diameter is correct but the pilot cap is not the right diameter for my ferrule. needs to be 5/16. I went ahead and got a quote for a custom bit from msc direct. I'm still looking around though. Has anybody recessed a stewmac ferrule with the flange with these type of bits? I'd like to know where you found 'em if you used 'em.

Yeah, I checked those part numbers several times, they don't match up with my ferrules from stewmac. It is easy to find the main bit for the ferrule (5/16 diameter hole). But, I cannot find a counterbore cap drill which has a pilot that matches the ferrule hole of 5/16. The closest I can find is this. The pilot hole diameter is just too small compared to the 5/16 hole that the ferrule requires. I must admit, this is getting frustrating.

Hello all, I decided to recess my rear stewmac ferrules for my guitar project. I am using part number 0173. I got the idea to recess these ferrules after this link here at project guitar. The problem is that I cannot find a cap screw counterbore bit that can match the 5/16 diameter hole (not the flange). I can find the cap screws with the cutter diameter of 25/64 but the cap won't fit the main hole. Has anyone done this before? I want to counterbore to make a clean look and for a fast and very precise hole. I already checked ics cutting tools and msc direct. Can anyone help? Maybe I missed something. Nathan

I think you have to explain that...you know I´m swedish... sorry, luck should have been "lucky". Also, one of the Aztec's weapons of the era consisted of a long tube and they would blow darts out of it. The darts would be covered in poison. The person or animal shot would fall to the ground as the poison from the darts would take effect. It was a very accurate weapon, unless you sneezed and accidentally shot your friend. Hope that cleared things up a little, I think I got myself carried away.

Kind of reminds me of what an indigenous Aztec would do if he got hold of an LP today. You could of provided some poison blow darts to the luck buyer to protect this baby! Awesome! GOTM!

Sorry to hear about that top. Thats unfortunate. I understand now . I am planning on a birdseye build myself. I am looking forward to see your next build with the birdseyes. Hopefully you will have better luck next time.

I don't care for it too much but that does not matter because many others will, and what counts is that you like it. That is what building is all about. I am wildly confused why you would paint over a beautiful birdseye maple top. Only 1% of the maple in the world is this type of wood! Where did you get that maple cap anyway? Looks great cause I don't see any heartwood or mineral streaks.

Yeah, again I look like an idiot. I was looking at the new stewmac catalog and I saw 82.50. That number ended up being for both rasps. That was the first number that jumped at me, So I need to drop out of college and go back to the first grade to learn how to read. Hope some people were entertained by my stupidity, or most likely--disturbed.

Those stewmac rasps seem like such a cool thing to own. But, I don't know if I'd ever purchase them from stewmac. I would probably purchase from this site based on price. In this situation, would buying these rasps from stewmac be the best decision? I'd rather save a buck if I could.

Cool, great idea. Adds a nice touch. Sorry for making you answer my question, I read the thread over and you answered the question previously. I should stop skimming.

I love that guitar. The neck is cool, looks really sporty. How did you put that half oval thing on you neck in pic 4? Was it paint or some type of joint?

I am starting to think that I would just be delaying the inevitable with the paduak. Here is where I read it.

Cool. I'll keep that in mind. I'll read up on how to finish with it. I thought gold hardware would look nice with it. Thanks for helping out with the experience and questions. I guess paduak is misunderstood because its just not used as much as other woods.

I asked the same question some time ago on this forum about that same question about where to ground a tunomatic. I was told that you ground the bridge stud/post. Here is the link I used. Grounding a Tunomatic. The guitar I am making now is going to use a tunomatic and I am not using a tailpiece, just string ferrules.

Well, I guess the only way of finding it out is to take a piece of paduak and go through the same sanding and finish applying process and leave it in the sun to see how nice it will age. If I use it I want it to look good with the hardware, theme etc since I have not seen a oxidized piece in front of me . But I have been researching for the past couple hours drawing on others experiences and you (Roman) seem to have the same experience as others. what hardware did you use for your instruments?

Here is a guy that makes dulcimers and uses PH regularly. His instruments look fantastic. He says that when the PH is cut it is purplish gray, and then turns the wonderful purple color. You can read about his experience with PH Here. And here is the guys experience with paduak. So, according to this builders experience, the purpleheart gets more spectacular. While the paduak does oxidize but still has a rich red color.

I'm such a doofus. here is a thread on protecting woods from UV Rays.

Oh, here is a thread on purpleheart. Now what about paduak?

I saw a post recently that someone had a paduak body, which looked beautiful! I read somewhere that if you use these woods and you want to keep the original color, your gonna have to use a finish with UV inhibitors. Does tru oil have those inhibitors? Can you use tru oil then put some sort of small protective coating on them. Options are open, I am just curious. What have you guys used for a finisher on these woods?

Beautiful. . Paduak looks awesome. You said you used tru-oil and 0000 steel wool, now did the oil that you used have UV inhibitors in it because the wood will fade to a brownish color. If the oil did have the UV blocking stuff, what brand was it and where did you get it? I am considering getting a paduak body with some sort of maple top and I want to keep that beautiful red hue of the original wood. Again, that guitar is stunning!

Ok, now I understand. I understand the tonal transfer stuff, it makes sense. I wish some scientist would test all the guitar claims and theories to see if the human ear can really tell a difference. Like lacquer on a guitar compared to natural oils and so forth. Now I am going somewhere completely different. Thanks again for the input everybody.

I will of course have to move the bridge because of the difference in scale length. I guess I was not clear enough. What I meant was more like, could the neck pocket be smaller and still be structurally sufficient. The formula just scaled where the neck meets the body on both the bass and treble side to an exact measurement. I don't want more frets to be covered on the body than I have to for the sake of fret access. I don't want the same neck pocket on my 25 as my RG because the neck pocket on the RG would be larger than what would be required, considering my 25 scale neck is a smaller neck lengthwise. My question more dealt with is the size of the pocket too small for a bolt on guitar without running into problems. The neck pocket is 2 and 3/4 inches and the treble is 1 and 3/8 inches. There is a arch that connects the two on the back for more support. Killemall you are correct, I just don't want the 4 bolts to be too close together because I am unfamiliar if any problems would arise. I hope I am more clear now, sorry for the confusion.

My Rg Prestige's neck pocket on the bass side is 2 and 13/16 inches and the treble side is 1 and 13/32 inches. The RG has a 25.5 scale. Heres a link to the back of an RG I like the neck pocket, so I wanted to find the structural equivalency since I am building a 25 scale guitar. Here's my formula: nut to neck bass body meet (25.5 scale) / Total board length (25.5 scale end of pocket) = X (25 scale nut to bass body meeting) / Total board length (25 scale end of pocket). The fingerboard does not extend over the neck. I did the same formula for the treble side, changing the distances of course. The neck pocket on the guitar I am building with the 25 inch scale would have a neck pocket on the bass side of 2.75 inches and 1 and 3/8 inches of the treble side. It is structurally equivalent, but is it too small of a neck pocket for a bolt on build? I am 95% sure that the pocket would be large enough, but I just wanted to make sure. Any comments would be helpful.