verhoevenc

It is true, you HAVE posted pics of them in the past. HOWEVER there's nothing current... I just went through all the posts (and they're LONG threads!) and found that the pictures have disappeared . Chris

Can't wait to see the two steer ones done. I'm a MASSIVE fan of those! IMO really captured the essense that IS telecaster, rootin' tootin' cowboy feelin' twang. Chris

Well I'm stoked that he lives in Miami! I might have to pop in one day and say hi! Chris

If you've got a drill press I can think of a way that's even easier than that (for PRS style ones only though, cause they have the like "rounded" sink hole). Take a BIG bit with a diameter greater than than of your knob (you can find bits with "rounded" bottoms) and drill down as deep as you want it set in the body. You'll end up with like a little "cup" in the top. Find the center of that cup and drill you hole. Tada, done. Chris

I've got it!! It's genious, however, in order to do this you'll have to like headless guitars, and those rear mounted tuning bridges. What you could do is after the zero fret make the strings go down holes through the neck. Ie: to string it you'd stick the string up through th neck, and then the tuners would be behind the bridge like on a steinberger or that one BC Rich Bich model. OR you could use a normal bridge and normal EVERYTHING, but have the strings go down through the neck after the zero fret again. But with this idea you still have a headstock but with the tuners mounted upside-down where after the strings do through the neck you thread them on the UNDERSIDE of the headstock, and the gears are on the top of the headstock. Could be cool? And since the strings go THROUGH the neck they'll be mounted strongly and therefore no chance of wood breaking, etc. Chris PS: Maybe cause neck instability at the headstock joint... will probably NEED a nice big volute!

exactly, so use an ebony fingerboard and use a graphtechnut. Tada, black with black, and since it'll be flush, you'll barely notice it. Chris

'eh, it's not TOO bad down here. Like Rony said, main problem is just the power. Chris

what I would do, is still have a nut, but just set it SO low that the top of it is flush with the fretboard. So the strings still hit the zero fret, THEN go back over the nut onto the tilted back headstock. Chris

For those of us with only palm 1/4 sheet sanders and no RO sander, what do you have to say about using the hand sanding abralon pads?? Or are the "sheets" the right size for my 1/4 sheet type sander and would that work just fine? I guess what I'm trying to ask is "is there a specific reason you're using a RO sander over other types?" Chris

Hahaha, I'm on here ALL the time screaming the awesomeness of one of my favourite builders: Kritz they do a zero fret on all their guitars, and I think basses too. They still have a nut also, but the zero fret is used to ensure that open strings have the same tonal characteristics as freted notes. Either way, go read their research and development section (R&D) on their site: www.kritz.com Chris

Take a look at this auction I found on ebay for a guitar made from a toilet seat! Worth A Look Chris

Yeah, i ended up just sanding the stuff off the other day with my palm sander and doing it by hand for the small corners, etc. I put my first layer of Devcon epoxy for filler today. I say first cause it'll probably take more than one time AND because putting on the epoxy has shown me the places where there is still poly (quite handy IMO). It's darkw here I got it all off, and then lighter where there is still poly on the wood. I'll let ya'll know how this turns out. Chris (Gunna do it with some reranch black for the back and sides, and then ordered some DEFT lacquer in a can for the gloss)

DAMN! I LOVE that nice dark neck! Really makes it look expensively sophisticated! Noice! Chris

Hahahaha, that's just duct tape holding it is, cause i didn't have screws, but couldn't remove it yet cause I didn't have a soldering gun. Chris

Ok... is there some reason everyone is avoiding replying in my threads as if they were ebola?? Chris

Ok... is there some reason everyone is avoiding replying in my threads as if they were ebola?? Chris

I'm revisiting my old guitar (see what I'm talking about in This Thread) and it has a polyurithane finish that I brushed on way back when. However, I'm going to be re-doing it with a black back and sides, and then clear over it all (this time all the paint will be nitro in rattle cans). My question is do I need to get rid of ALL this past poly then grain fill (cause it neverw as in the first place, gunna use Devcon epoxy) and then shoot my nitro, OR should I just rough up the poly, grain fill it, and then shoot the nitro over the poly? Thanks, Chris PS: The poly finish is almost a year old, so it's fully cured obviously (if that makes any difference)

OK, so I never really actually finished the first guitar I ever tried to build. SO I've decided to re-visit it. I'm in the process of TOTALLY reshaping the neck (cause it was OVER an inch thick in ALL places, and starting at the 12th fret just sloped up to meet the body at 2" thick! Lets just say it was a horrible neck...), striping the hand-brushed polyurithane colortone finish and replacing it with a black nitro back and sides, and a clear over it all. Also, the TOM tailpiece never lined up right, so the strings would get knocked off if you tried to play. Therefore, I'm building my own stop piece out on ebony that'll cover the TOM tailpiece's recess hole and hold the strings correctly. The pics show how un-even the finish was (wasn't even grain filled!) and how the neck is coming along, etc. Will update as things get done. Chris PS: Word to the wize, ALWAYS make sure you're 100% happy with a neck before gluing it cause this is proving VERY difficult to reshape the neck with it attached!

I do admit the extravagant one sounds much nicer lol, but I guess that's the point. However, for someone that doesn't like pointy guitars and would never build one, this looks nice. I'm particularly fond of the upper horn and how it kinda "bends up" at the point to point up, which you don't see often. Chris PS: Where you go to university? I'm a UMiami brat.

Or give it to me to make good use of lol Chris

Hey, I'm looking to get a bunch of burrs and router bits for my brand new dremel I got (LOVE the thing!) and I was looking around Widget Supply's Dremel section and saw that you can get "normal" bits, "compare to dremel" bits, and then actual bits from Dremel. Now this wouldn't perturb me... but there are some MAJOR price fluctuations between the groups. Like for the SAME 1/8" router bit it goes $1.97 , $3.97 , and $5.97. Now obviously I'd rather pay $2 instead of $6 per bit... but should I be afraid of these bits for any reason? Is there a REASON they're so cheap? Anyone used these guys? One last thing, when it comes to burrs, what do ya'll recommend? There's SO many types! All the types are listed Here (scroll down a bit). Thanks Guys, Chris

Hey, I lived in HK for awhile, went to HKIS where you at?

How many cans you go through on that? Looks good and shiny! No literally, how many? lol Chris

YES!!! More dragonflys!!! by far my favourites! Love it Mr. Myka Chris

No one has an opinion on this....? Chris