verhoevenc

OK, this is gunna sound weird at first. But does anyone have an old or broken pickup that they wouldn't mind parting ways with, or was just gunna throw away because they don't want/need it anymore? Here's why, I wanna try and made figured wood bobbin tops (not just veneered tops). Here's the thread on it so far: Wood Bobbin Thread So yeah, if you've got an old/broken pickup you know you won't need/want ever again... could I have it so I have something i KNOW I can't screw up on before I try it on a brand new pickup... (Preferablly humbuckers, and without covers... however, at this point in time I'm open for ANY donations, cause like they say, beggars can't be chosers, and I can probably learn just as much from any type of pickup in the end). Oh yeah, I'll pay the like $4 shipping it'll probably take to get it to Florida. Thanks in Advance, Chris Post here or PM me if you've got one, and I'll get you S&H and my address.

Yeah... I just did some extra research myself and found that the bobbin isn't just a flat plastic piece on TOP... it's one on top, one on bottom, and a collumn that all the wire is wrapped around.... NOT what I thought. I thought it was JUST the top plastic piece. But yeah, I want my wood a little thicker than just venner... so my next idea is taking out the pole pieces and without taking ANYTHING else off (ie: wire and everything cause I DON"T wanna rewire it) sand the top part of the bobbin down until it's really thin... maybe make it HALF the thickness, then add the wood equivalent on top of the same length I sanded down, and then replace the pole pieces. Chris

My question is this: If I got a humbucker pickup like this: How difficult would it be to remove the plastic pieces where the magnets stick through, use them as a template and make some wood ones, and then attach the wood ones. I know it CAN be done, cause duncan offers it... but only with other COLORS: Chris

I was looking at Rickenbacker 360s on eBay and was thinking to myself... the 12 string version is going for about the same exact price as the 6 string version. Which lead me to think, wouldn't it just be WELL worth you money (ie: the more bang for the buck theory) to get the 12 string, cause therefore you've got a 12 string, and if you want, just take off the harmony strings and make it a normal 6 string, cause in the rickenbacker 360's case, the 12s look EXACTLY like the 6s (cause it's not like the headstock is any bigger cause they designed it GENIOUSLY)!? Or am I misunderstanding the 12 string (I don't have one so it's very possible I am)? Would it not play/feel like a 6 even if you took off the harmony strings? Chris

Personally I'm a big fan of those F-holes you got goin' there. I would have never evebn thought of inverting the bottom end's loop to face inward so that they both point the same direc tion. Sort of off putting... but in a good way. Makes you think almost??? Chris

OK, someone mentioned these almost industrial looking (IMO) guitars not too long ago (www.rksguitars.com) and I think they're kinda cool. However I'd never pay the $3000 they're asking for them though. But regardless, they sound kinda nice in the soundfiles they put up, and I was wondering, has anyone actually played one? Chris

It appears thereis ome confusing on filler needs, and I must say, I'm quite curious myself. Someone with the knowhow wanna give a low down on what needs filler and what doesn't? Ash, Alder, Rosewood, Mahogany, Maple, some exotics...? Chris PS: Maybe also list WHAT you would use for filler on each of these?

Nothing more going on with this guitar? I keep coming back to see if there's any new news and there never is I love the body shape, like a siren it calls me back every time. Chris

Yeah, like he said, mine was done free hand lol Hey, it was a first guitar.... a learning experiance.

or play it a bunch Chris

I have it recessed pretty far down for a number of reasons: 1) I figured the further down I routed it, the less you'd see the bottom of it because it'd get darker as you go down cause the TOM would block light, then IE: The nicer it would look (as you can see when I removed the brdge, the routed bottom isn't beautiful). 2) Since I made a neck thru with no angle, the fretboard was only as high off the body as however thick stewmac fretboards are (can't remember, but it's alot less than the hieght of a TOM). Therefore I figured I needed it pretty deep. 3) Lastly I figure if it's too low, you can always raise it with the posts (within reason) but if it's too high at it's lowest post setting... you'd have to rereoute which if discovered AFTER finishing, that'd SUCK. Conclusion: Too deep is better than too shallow. I just measured, and mine is about 5/16" deep. But keep in my the tune-o-matic doesn't sit NEAR that deep into the cavity. PS: Half an inch is a little overboard though...

Hmmm.... bewy interesting.... That takes my thought process to a whole new level, cause I have a Ric 4003 bass that has a finished fretboard that kinda gives it a cool effect.... Chris

Yup, scarf away, my last neck through had a scarf and it works fine. Or you can do the laminate idea, cause then you could take the 3 thin, but wide piece and glue them together, thus giving you your needed thickness for a direct cutted downward degreed headstock, without the pain of finding a SINGLE piece of wood that big (which will cost you even bigger). Chris

Yeah, I did it on my first and ONLY guitar I've ever made (and it's still not finished lol). I have to refinish it (teacher forced me to brush finish it...) and fix one or two things. [Yeah yeah, I know what you guys are thinking, "OMG! He actaully builds things and doesn't just ask questions 24/7???] Taken from a large angle so you can see down into the recess Here it is with the TOM removed I even recessed the tailpiece. Chris PS: I did it for the reason garhanman brought up, didn't want a neck angle.

What about if you've got a rosewood fretboard?? I'm under the impression it's NOT a good idea to spray finish over the wood on that, HOWEVER, if you mask it off.... spray.... when you take off the tape won't there be a noticable level difference from the finish on the sprayed neck to where there's all of a sudden no finish on the fretboard? Or do you just not spray the TOP of the fretboard, so that the finish comes up all the way to the edge, adn therefore you don't notice the level difference cause it's at a corner...? Chris

No No, I've seen that tutorial. I just lost that it was called that. And yeah, I ordered a piece of wood that was wrong, HOWEVER I went ahead and drew up all my plans to accomodate this piece of wood (ie: I still designed my guitar around it) and now I'm looking back as I'm about to start building a little sadly. (Is what happened) Chris

Is this what is ment by "drop top"? Where the top does not cover the whole face of the guitar? How it kinda 'drops' into the back/body wood instead of making a real "edge" and being a full covering top? Like this: (Ordered one of these bad boys, AND a solid from them, should get them in Nov, I'm stoked! ) Chris

Drop top? Not quite familiar with this... I'll do some research. Chris

Yeah, I think I've reached the sad conclusion... flat top semi this time... carve next time So thinking forward, ya'll know where to get a nice thick top (spruce... maple...?) cause all the pre-bookmatched tops Gilmer has are 3/16" Chris

Damnit... what a waste of a $50 spruce top... Maybe I'll just go with a flat top THIS time round... And then go for the carve next time. Chris

OK, here's an idea. I fork out another $50 to get another 3/16" of spruce... but i strain this one BEFORE glueing it to the other spruce. So then, it's not 3/8", so I can carve 1/4" total, HOWEVER when the carve carves down PAST the unstrained top it all of a sudden turns ____ (insesrt color of strain of second spruce top undernieth). OR do some other sort of wood (darker than spruce) in the same manner. Thoughts? Chris PS: Cause yeah I'm a fan of big carves too...

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of... but I DON'T want a flat top on this... Would I be able to carve it thinner than 1/8" safely since it's not a full hollow, only a semi? Chris

OK, here's the delima... I wanted a carved top semi-hollow and got spruce and lacewood for the guitar. HOWEVER without even thinking about it, I got a spruce top that's only 3/16" thick (cause that's all that I saw on Gilmer wood, so in my lapse of thought process I didn't second guess how big that actually was). Either way, I was watching the Bennedetto video series that I bought and he says don't carve thinner than 1/8". So here's my question, that leaves me with a total carve depth of a mere 1/16". Is it even worth it/will it be that noticable? OR? Since mine's not a full hollowbody, and since there's SOLID wood undernieth the bridge, can I carve thinner than that (but I don't wanna bump the guitar and it break right through to the hollow cavity). Advice? Chris

Yeah, I'm gunna trust him... I mean, I've seen his work. But for a newbie to inlay that has NO idea what he's doing yet and is just getting started that can be QUITE a fear worthy reply!

now you see my paranoia and concern?!