hy_dro66

Is there a reason you don't want to put it on the neck heel? Because that is the best way and it's real simple to do.

Some say that putting a flatter radius in the x-braces than in the top puts spring in the top so it has potential energy stored allowing it to snap into action quickly(the radius actually gets sanded into guitar sides/kerfing and the bottom of the braces). I'm not sure if that is entirely true but it makes a lot of sense to me. It's seems that it would make a guitar have more attack and less sustain. If that theory is true than the top would get going without much initial energy which would provide a quick, punchy attack, and slow down quicker due to the tension that's already there. I'm not a physics major by any means, I just know that the one I built sounds outstanding and that's how I built it. I was trying to see if anyone else does it differently or uses different radius measurements.

Actually, since you have a floyd it might not be the best. They don't make a locking one.

Buzz feiten system requires some very precise measurements and cutting off part of the fretboard at the nut. I suggest the Earvana Nut. I installed one yesterday and it is very easy compared to Buzz system and requires no moding of the guitar. It looks different but works great! Here's a link. Earvana Nut

The best wire is insulted braided wire. It doesn't have to be shielded to work but some people shield everything to kill hum.

It's okay to be out of control boggs. You'll make great guitars because of it. Have fun with that 12 string. The wood looks great.

This post is modified using less words and less statements that can be construed as bitter or defensive. Young folks, Keep building guitars and don't let anything discourage you from doing what you love. I haven't been here long enough to know dave so I jumped at his comment without knowing what he meant. I love what happens in this forum and I think you all are a very helpful and easy group to throw ideas at.

If you have a sheilded wire coming from the pickup, then you use the inside wire as the signal and the shield as the ground. That simple.

I'm not sure how many of you here build acoustics on a regular basis. I am not quite at the building acoustics continuosly stage yet(I do only electrics currently, although I've built one acoustic that I'm very pleased with) but I was wondering what radiius you all put in your tops and backs? Also do you do a different radiius in your braces to pre-load the top? When I start I'm planning on using 15ft for the back and 30 for the front with the X- bracing at 50ft.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks dude. I haven't tried them but I guess I will just to hear what they sound like.

That's the best way to learn really. Plus the guys that hang in through the hours of sanding and cleaning will really appreciate carving a neck when they get to do it. They will also understand how much your time is worth. I love the "Grand Master Pubar Luthier" title.

Honestly, they would work fine. Plus they would last a long time(if they are really diamond coated) That seems a little cheap for a real diamond coat.

If you choose to go with ash and ebony you'll be able to find pickups that will suite that wood combination. There are so many options now that it's hard not to find what your looking for.

If you look at a floyd you can easily see that each saddle is held down with a hex head bolt. When one is loosened it allows the saddle to shorten or lengthen the string. If you move the saddle all the way back until it hits the bolt then you will have the most string compensation. If you need more then you can drill a hole further back and tap it so the travel is shifted further from the nut. You'll see if you look closely.

My advice is to mow a few lawns to make enough cash to get a decent neck wood.

I use mostly emg's and I have a wireless unit I use at most gigs so I'm not planning on getting shocked anytime soon. I was just curious.

First I'd say trim most of the excess off the with the table saw you have... Just kidding. Basically, if you use a rasp, files and sandpaper you have to have a good eye and steady hand to keep the sides of the guitar 90 degrees to the top and back while also keeping the shape you want. If you're planning on rounding the body over a lot than that won't be a big deal. Just a thought. I always make a template about 3/4" thick first. I make that one as perfect as humanly possible, first by tracing the shape, then cutting out the shape and last I use sand paper and a flat block to get it sweet. I trace the template onto a body blank and cut it out on the band saw. Then I sand it down until it's close to the line the whole way around. Next I mount the template to the body with double stick tape and flush route the body blank to match the template. At this point you can sand it perfect with a flat block and some 150 grit. It takes a lot of time intially to get the template real nice but it's worth it in the long run because you can make guitar bodies the same shape, very consistently.

Thanks TR.

You put your fingerboard on after you carve the neck?

Well if you're going to duncans might as well save up a few more weeks and buy emg's. They are clarity meets big balls meets warmth. Love em, hate the price. You'll pay at least a 100 a pickup. Go with the 85's. If you decide to go with Seymours you'll be sounding great as well. And Kent Armstrong pickups aren't bad pickups they're just affordable. Most people couldn't tell the difference between two pickups if it bit 'em in the...

This is off topic, but how many people actually use 13 sounds from a guitar. Not to mention a bunch of them will be very similar. It sucks that they are trying to patent it. I'm sure there are many in this forum that have come up with cooler ideas.

does the resitor/cap thing work the same as a fuse or different?

Definately use ebony for the fingerboard if you want your inlay to look great. If you do rosewood all your mistakes will stick out like a sore thumb. With ebony you can glue the inlay in and fill all the cracks with epoxy(mixed with ebony dust to make it pitch black). When it drys just sand it down. Lemon oil the board and nobody will be able to tell it's not perfect except people who know about inalying. It looks very profession when it's finished.

Are you taliking about the small bug with the antenna(no pack and cord)? Also to answer the first question... I heard that wiring a certain value resistor and capacitor in parallel with the ground can eliminate getting shocked by poorly grounded arenas or whereever you gig. I don't know for sure.