bassman

I already have a dust collector, Delta 1hp, 550 cfm. hooked up to my tools. I have seen the one you have- but am not sure if I would be satisfied with its performance- my shop is 26'x17' and the ceiling slopes from 10 ft high down the center to 8 foot along the longer walls. About 4000 cubic feet, I would like the air to be recirculated about every five minutes. I need to find a fan that moves about 1000 cfm, which of course will be reduced when hooked up to a good filter. on a similar note (the topic of shop comforts) I have been installing rigid foam insulation in my shop- the r factor is only 3.9- but coupled with the dead air space I am creating between the reflective side of the foam and the metal sheating outside it will be about r-7. Hopefully this will be enough to keep it comfortable in the winters and summers (Richmond, Virginia). Do you folks think my 19,700 BTU kero heater will be enough to provide warmth in the winter? I am not too familar with heating, cooling, insulayion and such. peace, Ryan

I would like to apologize here for consistently having many typos and grammatically incorrect posts. The cursor on my PC has a mind of its own and will shift both its vertical and horizontal positions while I am typing. This is obviously very frustrating and leads to sloppy posting habits. Peace, RYan

Last night I built a crude version of an ambient air cleaner. It is basically a wooden box in which a box fan pulls air through an electrostatic air filter (MERV 8). It seems to work pretty good- the cost of a box fan is less than $10 and the filter cost is $10-15 (and can be used up to five years, with very regular rinsing of course). I am not sure how it compare to a commercially available unit- although I know that I could build five of them in five hours and still have spent less than on a single small 450cf per min- delta unit available at Lowes. Of course I would like to obtain a much stinger fan than the box unit I am now using. Has anyone experiented with such a thing? Peace, Ryan

i cant help you much...... although, today I spotted a 12" delta bandsaw at lowes for $199... this could be great for those that have trouble with 9" but do not want to pay 350+ for a 14". Peace, Ryan

bid.... I had my eye on that piece, did you end up winning that auction? There is a tiny chance i might be interested in getting a piece of that from you if you won- PEace, Ryan

here is the first instrument that I built... from scratch- orginal design My Webpage hidden from above neck thru- 7 piece bubinga and purple heart top- big leaf quilted maple body wings core- mahogany back of body- bubinga fretboard- rosewood hand turned knobs- amboyna burl pickups- seymour duncan basslines- active JJ- with extra wide spcaing between the two of them eq- actvive 3 band seymour duncan with slap contour switch (however, this is not a slappers bass) scale- 34.5" headless ABM hardware finish- no stains- only a special blend of boiled linseed oil, tung oil and polyeurathane Lex, your bass is pretty sweet looking, PEace, Ryan

piezo pickups are cool but ehy can also be a bit of a pain... you can run them together with your mag pickups- getting an even volum between them and your mag pickups may be a bit of challenge- all of the piezos i have worked with have required a active preamp- i am sure that all piezo's reuire this- the signal created by the crystals is very weak and definitely needs to be beefed up.... one other thing that you may find is that the string to string volume on a piezo bridge will be out of balance, piezo's are depenant upon string pressure over the saddle and string tensions are frequently not the same- even if they are the same simply moving a peizo string saddle can have quite an effect on the level of that string and the sound quality... it is a good idea to use a piezo bridge that allow for the adjustment of the individual string volumes. despite all of these issues that can create some cool sounds in the end and could certainly be worth he hassle peace and good luck, Ryan

sut keep on chugging- things are looking pretty good- the most important advice I can give to you is the be patient and prepared... getting accurate results with a router takes some know how- sometimes the good old hand tools (chisels, gouges, rasps) are great for either cleaning up "misfortunes" or avoiding them in the first place just think to yourself "if my first is this good, I cant even imagine how sweet my 5th or 50th guitar will be!" peace and good luck with yur first build, Ryan

you coould fairly easily make a wooden bridge for your bass (although it ould not be very adjustable), yes even for an electric. there are basses out there with a tremolo bar- I beleive that Paul Stanley's piccollo basses made by Carl Thompson have whammy bars-\Peace, Ryan

not to be vain- but even if you dont like my design the top is without a doubt, killer. no stains there- only boiled linseed oil,tung oil and poly My Webpage

skibum, It was my first guitar, period. Thanks for the compliments... I agree I would like the strap buttons to be more discrete, however, did you notice that I have two strap buttons on the bridge side? Having two buttons on that side does away with the need for a stand, and protects the wood, while keeping it perfectly balanced while leaning against my rig. While recessed buttons are cool they would not give me the cool advantage of going standless. The buttons that are on there now are slightly oversized so Ihave not had any problems with dropping. Despite their advantages both recessed and strap locks almost always require the use of a certain strap, if you do not have that strap then you are screwed. I have not been fond of any certain strap with this bass, the 2.99 black nylon ones work great, for it is so light (only in weight not on sound) and well balanced (it will stay in a nearly vertical position hands free- should one desire such a position) that playing it for a 3 or 4 hour gig is not a problem. peace, Ryan

oh... since you are using a premade neck... order it first so that ou can use the actual dimensions of that neck to plan your guitar- and more specifically the neck pocket- on a related note... HAVE ALL OF YOUR HARDWARE WHILE PLANNING AND BEFORE BILDING...I stress this because it may save you from dissaster- plan based upon what you have not upon some specs of what the nut or bridge or neck should be. Ryan

yes it is and no because I dont know the exat dimensions of your neck you build the neck and use the neck as a the judge of the neck pocket dimensions. you really need to get a good book _ Hiscocks build your own guitar- this and several other books will help you get started. you must have some sortr of idea of what you are getting into beofre yoy build a guiatr. Peace, RYan

thanks dugz ink yeah people really notice that detail- I see why more people dont do it thought- it is a real pain to get everything just right when you dont hide the joint with a floating fboard- peace, Ryan

hopefully the link is fixed now.... check it out the bass is a headless 5 string bass designed and built from scratch 7 piece purleheart, bubinga neck thru (hidden from top) northwestern big leaf quilt maple top mohagany body wings core bubinga back of wings 24 and 4/5 fretboard rosewood 34.5" scale hand turned amboyna burl knobs seymour duncan "basslines" JJ active pickups- extra wide spacing between the two seymour duncan active three band eq with slap contour (which I never use) and semi parametric capabilities boiled linseed/tung oil/poly finish very light and balanced with very flexible tone pallette ABM headless hardware Peace, Ryan

i guess my firs tpost of this did not take...... this is the first bass I built- I have since built 20- but thsoe were of someone esles design and were done for my job$ I know the design needs some "tightening" up of the lines but what do you all think? it was made and designed from scratch- but of course i did not make or design the killer hardware and pickups/eq My Webpage peace, Ryan

I built some basses out in charlottesville va for dammann basses- we never had a shortage of mahogany- now they dry all their own wood- but all ou have to do is look in around in your area- you will not look like an idiot evne if you do not know exactly what you need or are looking for- they should be able to hepl you out now matter what your level of knowledge.\\ peace, Ryan

By all means if you think it will be worth it then go for it... I would never want to stop anyone from experimenting with such a thing... I jus wanted to make sure that you ahve fully considered the outcome of such an arduous undertaking- IMO I would build a new instrument from scratch before I would do expand the width of a fretboard like you have in mind. If you decide to do it, please keep us informed I am very curious to see how it comes out. And yes a 1/8 makes quite a difference in the feel of string spacing. Good luck to you, let us know if you have any difficulties along the way. PEace, Ryan

I know what you mean as welll.... however, I maintain that it would be very uncomfortable... but keep in mind what I said ealier...... and if it is such a small amount then why bother with it? I hinestly do not think it will be worth the effort. PEace and good lucuk, Ryan

check these out... http://www.dammannbasses.com/ what do you think? of the highly contoured scroll horn? peace, RYan

www and bluespresence........ that thing sure does make you wish you could come up with something that sweet and orginal huh? I been considering building one just like it for quite some time... however I would use a cocobolo fingerboard and a burled amboyna top- and neckthru mirds eye maple neck... I already have all of the wood If I decide to tackle that funky design i WILL lwt you all know- the hidden headless tuners (they appear to be the ABM system- which I have used before) may be a bit tricky- I wish I knew more about the pickup system on that badboy- I imagine that it is a simple undersaddle tranducer- but I may be wrong... any ideas on it? Peace, Ryan

Dugz Ink, Consider using fold out horn attachments that have a pivot point on the back of the body and a stopping point as well. That could be a very nich touch... to only hve to use one at a time... that would given aninteresting visual PEace and good look, Ryan

this is one of the sweetest and cleanest looking basses I have ever seen check out his other work while you are there http://www.pagelli.com/e/2instrum/bass_git_fr.html the Pagelli golden bass is the best Peace Ryan

I would not recommend doing such a thing... the feeling of riding your hand against such an odd shape might be very distracting... you will porbably find that it is very much a pain in the arse.......... however if you have time and money to spare, and the instrument that you wish to guinea pig on is not worth much money or sentimentl value then go for it PEace,\Ryan

yes... your first inclination (as in what you said) is usually the way to go.... cut the slots and then radius the board... then make the slots deeper and parallel to the curvature of the board so that a uniform depth is acheived... those slots depths are sortr of standard, most wire you get from them should fit in there fine- always check before ordering though... there are different widths (tang widths) available out there... make sure that your frets will not be overly tight or too loose, peace, ryan