metallisomething
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Everything posted by metallisomething
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looks cool. What kind of wood is the body supposed to be?
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I installed EMG 81 and 85's in my custom build....however my tastes have evolved a little. I've been going back to my first guitar, a Yamaha Pacifica. I like the way it plays and sounds. I'm thinking of replacing the neck pickup and possibly the middle(both singles). It has a 5 way switch, and to my knowledge theres one position where it combines the neck and middle pickups together (there is no him in this position) is this correct? anyway, I just want a warm tone for playing mostly clean rythym and lead, with lots of sustain. I've never tried anything else besides what I have, so I need some advice (I'm left handed, I can't exactly pick up a guitar in a store and make a good choice). Also, I really know little about 'sustainer kits' though I have been reading the sustainer thread. any advice is appreciated!
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Nice work. Is it already in the guitar? if so, what did you use to carve out the wood?
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"I could go on and bore you all with a lengthy explanation why a long flat tool is the way to go, but I dont remember anyone saying it was the only tool to use in the process. radius block and compound radius fret boards, Think about it" - Woodenspoke I agree with you about the compound radius, I forgot to specify....I dont know what I would do to make a compound radiused fretboard. What do you do?
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So does that mean you use a router to cut the neck and use a template for that as well? What kind of router bits do you guys use? My router has a guide, but its a part of the router's base, not the bit, so I have to make my templates bigger or smaller depending on the bit I'm using and whether the template is an inside or outside cut.
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I think Godin uses a brass plate as well, in some models. I did it in my Flying V project....I'll try to get some pictures up. Do you think it would help the sustain if the brass plate is actually screwed into the body?
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Noise With My Lp - Grounding Issue?
metallisomething replied to roahboah's topic in Electronics Chat
I use EMG-81's and 85's and get a brutal buzz. It dies down a little but when i hold something, like a pot or pickup...But the instructions clearly tell you not to ground them. Even when the volume on the pickups is down i can hear buzzing. It's driving me crazy and I don't know enough about it to figure it out. Its a guitar I built...two volume and one tone. -
Man, thats so cool. How do you get the routs so clean!? How do you get everything so clean!!!????? I mean, I haven't had a lot of practice, and my first guitar was a neckthrough with oak (aka steel) sides, but, my stuff comes out rough. How do you cut the cavity covers so exact? What do you use to cut the neck so it follows the right taper, and matches the fretboard? how everything!?
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Does anyone here finish the face of the fretboard with anything? on my build I didn't, I just treat it with fretboard oil. Also, do finish the sides....I haven't yet and you can almost feel where the laquer ends and the fretboard begins...its rather annoying. Also, What do you guys finish the back of the necks with?
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I use one of the radiused sanding blocks from stewart mcdonald. If you level the fretboard and install the frets properly, it seems unlikely that the frets will be that bad. I dont get it though, everyone says they use precision flat tools for leveling frets....but arent most electric and acoustic guitar fretboards radiused? It seems using something flat to take material off a round surface would leave too much potential for it to not end up even.
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I finished building my first guitar a while ago and I keep noticing the 1st 3 strings (e, b and g) going out of tune frequently. The other 3 are usually always fine. Its a neckthrough with a double action truss rod. I have dixon 6 in line tuners aswell and a TOM bridge. Any ideas? Thanks
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you want to make it look old? try playing it for 40 years.
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Back to the headstock. I personally think that it should be a 6 in line headstock. Something a bit longer and pointy with a dragon's tail motif in mind. Nothing too outrageous, just something that makes you forget its the headstock of a guitar.
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When you sand a piece of wood you'll notice that the tiny particles of saw dust are embbeded in the grain of the wood. you can see the grain filled in with the light colored dust. How do you get the dust out of the grain before you stain (or paint) the wood? I am refering to the body of my guitar which I have sanded to 2000 grit sandpaper Thanks
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Almost all the fret ends (just ends) on the guitar I'm building are loose. I tried the paste wax/super glue press down method with no success. I'd rather hang myself than re-fret the entire thing, so, I need advice. The life of my guitar, and possibly me depend on it! Thanks
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Stuck On Design! Argh...
metallisomething replied to rokeros's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Kind of explorer inspired...maybe completely inappropriate for this design but I thought I'd give it a shot -
How much bigger (diameter) do the bridge post holes have to be compared to the posts themselves? Im using a Gotoh TOM and the post is roughly 0.436" in diameter. Also, do you just hammer it in (carefully)? thanks Rock & Roll
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Master Tone Vs Master Volume
metallisomething replied to metallisomething's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Thanks those are both valid arguments for both. I think I'm going with two volumes because as it is i rarely touch the tone on my current guitar. I could still change my mind, but we'll see Does anyone know what Eddie Van Halen does to get that sound when he flicks the toggle switch back and forth? Rock & Roll -
I am currently building a left handed rhoads style V. you might know the thread in the in progress section of the forum. I am at the stage where I am going to wire the thing. I have a Zakk Wylde EMG set. I decided on three control pots. I cannot decide if my layout should be master volume, and 2 tones, or Master tone and two volumes (one for each pickup) Jackson makes models with either so thats no help. My question is: What have you found are the advantages/disadvantages to each type of setup? Which do YOU prefer and why? I also want to make that toggle switching sound that Van Halen uses a lot (you really got me) Thanks your advice is appreciated Rock & Roll
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I know the neck needs relief, and the up bow on mine is slight, but how do I level the frets with the 'relief' or slight up bow that my neck has? Placing a straigh edge accross the board wont work. Do I just blue the frets with a marker and file until the blue is just gone on all the frets? Thanks Rock and Roll
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Im not talking about back bow from the frets, Im talking about up bow. After I installed the frets and carved the neck the neck and fretboard moved a little. I mean, with wood and everything you can't expect it to stay completely straight. Wood is organic and changes all the time. The amount of bow is very very slight, but its enough that holding a straight edge on the frets will not be accurate. Thanks again Rock and Roll
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On a neckthrough guitar, after it has been fretted and the neck has been carved the neck will undoubtedly bow. Do you adjust the truss rod to make it straight again before you level the frets? I dont see how you can level the frets on a bowed neck. Thanks Rock and Roll
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The pickup cavities are not wider, they just span a greater distance along the length of the guitar so they can be moved up and down the face of the body. I worked it out so that the pickup rings will still cover the open space and it shouldn't be noticable.
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The neck through part is Flatsawn rock maple. I bought a (roughly) 4"wide x 2" thick x 42" long for around $16 Canadian. I was surprised at the low cost because I bought it at an exotic wood store that carries very expensive woods. I will definately be writing about the Oak sound. I'll admit, I'm skepticle about the sound but it was available to me free so w'll see. I am using EMG pickups. 81 bridge, 85 neck. The holes in the template are bigger because the guide for my router cuts 3/16" smaller than the edge it rests against. therefore every template must be 3/16" bigger than the desired size. Also, I made the pickup cavities bigger so I can move the pickups back and forth a small amount to experience different tones. the bridge pickup will be able to be placed at the 43rd fret harmonic, and 1/8" closer to the bridge.
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Some more progress for the left handed V This would be the template i made for shaping the body aswell as routing the pickups and the control cavity Oak very hard and chips easy, so there were a lot of chunks falling off when i chisled it down. The little island in the middle is for the battery, I made that one section deeper than the rest of the cavity. This is of course slotting the fretboard. Getting ready to install the truss rod and attatch the fretboard. To align the fretboard properly I placed little pins in the neck sticking up about 1/16" and filed to a very sharp point. I then lined up the fretboard without glue and pressed the pins into the fretboard. Then when the glue is spread I just lined up the pins with the holes in the fretboard. This way the fretboard doesnt slide around when glued.