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metallisomething

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Everything posted by metallisomething

  1. metallisomething
    the posts rattle inside the bushings? holy, thats not good but does anyone know the difference between the two bridges at the top of the page? the difference in proce if so great, there HAS to be something
  2. metallisomething
    derek, thanks for the info i still think the Dozuki will do. you can tilt the saw slightly to cut away tiny amounts of wood on either side of the slot to widen it. i know it has to be perfectly accurate, but the fretwire itself is probably not conisitant enough to be called perfect. not to mention that the tangs on the wire dig in and push against the wood. people make fretboards all the time with just a saw and a sanding block as a "fence" to slot the board. i was thinking about buying the stewmac mitrebox. how exactly does it work so the slot is perfect? where can i find this 0.019 fretwire? would not the truss rod and neck keep the fretboard straight regardless?
  3. metallisomething
    how exactly did you do that on a jointer?
  4. metallisomething
    Jivin, thats genius i havent drawn your idea out or anything but the basic theory is so simple, and crazy, that it just might work. that way you can easily have the neck "stick up" where the fingerboard attaches. you just stop "shaving" or planing when you get to the point where the fingerboard starts. Rock and roll
  5. metallisomething
    Im looking a STEWMAC for tune o matic bridges and i notice they have one thats $17.11http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...s_Bushings.html and the Tone Pros that are $64.00 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...r_Hardware.html my question is, whats the difference? both are identical in terms of dimensions and specs. are the Tone pros really worth the extra money? and one more thing, the saddles are slotted, is each saddle slotted for each string or are the all the same, the reason being I'm left handed and will be flipping it around. besides that and the location of the saddle adjustments, are there any other problems with flipping the bridge around?
  6. metallisomething
    thanks, man. i wasent planning on using a table saw for the fret slotting. i have a Dozuki saw that should do the trick, the kerf is a little less (about 0.018") than the fretwire but i can make it work, probably by passing through the slot more than once with the saw, making sure to keep in the center. however, i am planning on making a mitre box for the saw to be used in conjunction with the scale templates, if anyone has done this i would like to know how you built the box and how it went thanks
  7. metallisomething
    has anyone ever used the Dual fret scale templates from STEWMAC? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...15.html#details they look like a good idea, and you get two different scales with each order, so the price isnt bad. you also get the little spring loaded pin so you can hook it up to a fence and just follow the notches. seems like this takes the guess work out of measuring the distance of the frets, if anyone has any opinions on these id like to hear 'em
  8. metallisomething
    its nice and easy to say just route out the neck pockets to the correct angle for bolt-ons. but what if youre making a neck through with a TOM that needs an angle? How do you create the angle on one piece of wood? The jackson Randy rhoads models with TOMs are neckthroughs, so it is possible...
  9. metallisomething
    theres two sides to every story, but i dont think people will get the wrong impression from a rose inlay. Guitars can indeed be a work of art, and a rose is a very artistic symbol, persay. which leads me to my next question, how are you making this rose? what material and tools would you use to make it? roses are very geometrically complex, it seems to me, anyway. the barbed wire really adds a touch of masculinity, if youre at all worried. my inlay idea is for a ocean horizon line with the sun setting and maybe a palm tree here or there.
  10. metallisomething
    When you are drawing the plans for your guitar, how do you line everything up perfectly on paper? You can start with a center line but then how do you accurately measure and draw your nut and bridge using the center line as reference? for the taper of the fretboard, do you just choose a width at the nut, 12th fret, etc and join the lines? how do you make a template for the shaping of the back of the neck? thanks there are things that are known, there are things that are unknown, in between there are...
  11. metallisomething
    Tune O Matic bridges are angled(not parallel to the tailpiece, if you have a tailpiece) slightly......why? and how do you determine the angle? I left handed so the angle will have to be backwards, but any advice on this is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  12. metallisomething
    does anyone know of or have read any instructional material on doing inlay work. im looking at Larry Robinson's "the art of inlay" as my best bet because of the unbelievable work he does. But if anyone can recommend anything different it would be much obliged. i have a jewlers saw and blades and some pearl, so, im mostly set
  13. metallisomething
    ok ok fair enough i didnt think of that in that case could you just take the height of the bridge and subtract the desired fretboard height?
  14. metallisomething
    I suggest starting at the beginning ask yourself these questions and do them if the answer is no do you have a shape idea? do you have a actual size drawing? bolt on? set neck? neck through? more help can be added with the answering of those questions
  15. metallisomething
    for determining the neck angle couldn't you just make a imaginary triangle with the bridge, strings, and guitar body: the height of the bridge (all the way down, middle, all the way up, your choice) is one side of the triangle, the length of the strings is the hypotenuse, and an imaginary line perpendicular to the bridge that goes to the end of the strings is the third side now you have a right triangle. you can use a trig function to find the angle, you dont even need the "imaginary" line x = neck angle cosine x = bridge height / string length i think this would work
  16. metallisomething
    yeah mike, being canadian and left handed is the best, i would know, im both. im building a left handed rhoads V (from scratch *gulp*) where did you guys get those wizard neck templates? thats one thing im not sure how to do, shape the neck, ill do it to my preference (a thin D shape) but how do you make it consistant throughout the entire neck?
  17. metallisomething
    thanks paulneeds, where have you seen plans for a V? more specifically a rhoads V. i dont want to make a recessed bridge, ill angle the neck. im not capping it i want the wood im using in the construction to show. i figure the best way to determine the angle is take the height of the bridge, measure the scale (25.5") till its on the same level as the bridge, this makes a triangle where i can determine the angle of the strings and make the neck accordingly, anyway, the bridges are adjustable so if its not exactly perfect the bridge can be adjusted accordingly.
  18. metallisomething
    I'm starting to build a guitar, modeled after the jackson Randy rhoads flying V. i have no model to use as a template which is fine because im left handed anyway. i was planning no using a tune-o-matic style fixed bridge but realized that i need an angled neck to do so. first of all, how do you determine what the angle has to be, second how do you angle the neck on a neck through that passes through the entire body? (will tune-o-matics lower enough to eliminate the need for a neck angle?)
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