silvertonessuckbutigotone

yeah audacity is a lot more straight forward.

1. Jackson 2. yeah 3. Silvertone SG, Squier Bullet 4. Silvertone from ebay, Squier from Brooke Mays Music Group 5. My Silvertone 6. Yeah 7. Marshall 100DFX, Gorilla TubeCruncher 65 8. Marshall-100, Gorilla-65 9. 2 years 10. I'd say about 6

hmmm, I dunno why warmoth says this: http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/options_bodywoods.cfm

the silvertone I have is a crappy new SG style that I put EMGs in and repainted.

I've not personally used them but from what I hear they aren't bad.

I have the marshall mg100dfx and it works fine.

a solid state amp will still drive a cabinet with a higher impedence but it won't sound as good, thats why I said as low as possible without getting below the amps impedence.

if I'm not mistaken you want the lowest possible. That said, you can't have an impednece lower than the amp your using it with. If you wanted 4 ohms, you could take 2 8 ohm speakers and wire them in parrallel. You want o match or have more impedence in your cabinet than the amp. that is only for solid state amps. for tube amps you NEED the same impedence. if your tube amp is 4 ohms, you need four ohms, if its 8 you need 8, etc. for more info on speaker cabinets go here and read up. http://www.duncanamps.com/technical/speaker_cab.html

if I'm not mistaken isnt it hard if not impossible to stain hard maple?

you could, but most likely you'd have to refret and sand all the finish off of it that s on it now to stain it. What wood is it? Do you know what kind of finish is on the wood?

so the maple is carved on both sides but on the bottom its inverted? I'm thinking no. But if the carves match up PERFECTLY maybe, but I'm still thinking no. It would take a lot of work if you had a chamber too. Does it have braces on the bottom? I wouldn't reccommend it.

wow, I finally sort of got something figured out lol. with the help of 13 replys. Thanks for all your guys' posts it really helped me understand why I'm grounding the bridge and stuff. Thanks again.

First you need to know how far away the 24th fret is from where the neck will actually be sitting in the pocket. just measure that and if you have an overhang you add it, and if you don't you subtract it from the distance between the bridge and 24th fret(25.5-19.125=6.375 converted to cm=16.2cm/162 mm). so if you have an overhang it would be like this: 162+A is how far from the bridge the end of the neck pocket would be, you'd also have to calculate the curve, if you have no overhang it would be: 162-B is how far from the bridge the end of the neck pocket would be, you'd also have to calculate the curve, this is all assuming you have a bolt on neck, set necks sometimes have a neck extension rather than a fingerboard extension.

So by grounding the sheilding in a guitar control cavity, what you are doing is having it accept any interference, but send it to the ground? Why is conductive sheilding still used even when it's not being grounded? And the reason we ground a bridge is so that if it picks up any intereference it wont send it to the pickups or the control cavity? So instead of cancelling intereference it accepts it and gets it out of where we don't want it? And thats why when grounding is bad the hum goes away when you touch the strings, it's like a substitute for grounding. And in schematics of footswitches etc. the symbol for ground in the in/out jacks are in reality just connected to eachother? I think I'm beginning to put the peices together. Or maybe I'm dead wrong and really slow... ...why couldn't I just have sticked with PLAYING a guitar and not playing WITH it? lol.

i'm a bit slow

most people 'round here would recommend a rasp, a file and some sandpaper.

thats about the ratio that I was thinking but when maiden posted his comment and what confused me was the "EVEN if just by a bit" so i thought he meant that a lot over the speakers rating was preferable/acceptable. Thanks for clearing it up LK.

I don't know anything about the walls except that they look like standard walls, I don't know any specifics becuase I've only been there a couple times.

isn't it possible to blow speakers if the wattage level is TOO much higher than what they can handle?

you did overlook it check post #12 of this thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...ndpost&p=172090

like I tried to explain, I'm not needing it to sound proof, all I need is to make the room balanced, I don't mind if I hear people from outside or people hear me from outside, because I'll most likely be recording when few to no people are home. My ONLY goal is to make it sound good, not soundproof. And the room is already almost soundproof because it has a concrete floor and that abosrbs a lot of sound, but that concrete also creates a very bright annoying echoey sound, so with foam on the wall and carpet on the floor it will balance it out for the clearest and most pleasing sound possible.

try www.photobucket.com

350 F or 350 C? remember this dude is from germany.

the only thing i dont like about audacity, is the vst plugins appear different and it sucks like that.

as far as i understand you need a cabinet with the same/higher impedence as the amp? i think thats what it was.