Kevan

CA (which stands for cyanoacrylate) is what we call "super glue". It comes in many forms (liquid, gel, semi-solid), and even in colors (I've seen black, clear, white and red). It was originally designed for the troops in Vietnam, to help quickly seal up the brutal cuts caused by the jungle grass. Try some out on your finger some time. Notice how brittle it will become. It's a great glue, with incredible holding properties, but much like epoxy, it can be brittle. Given, you don't have much flex going on with frets. So, if you can find a slower-setting CA, it might not get as brittle as the 'original' and will help you with your seat times. CA is not toxic to skin. It doesn't 'burn' or 'sting' when applied. This means there's a lack of solvents in it. So, it's safe to use on wood (which usually has it's own protective oil, much like human skin). CA shouldn't stain your wood and can be removed with a little bit of soap and water (via q-tip, or sponge) and some elbow grease. Another good idea is to tape the fretboard to protect it during the inlay/fretting processes. Remember: tape is your friend! :-) Personally, I would set the fret, lay down the CA, then finish seating, as quickly as possible. If you can, find an applicator with a long, thin nozzle tip that can get into tight places easily. I'll get LGM to post his suggestions in here. He's done a ton more re-fretting than I have. And his inlays...well...if you've missed them....I can't help ya there. LOL

The UV is absolutely f-ing stunning. That's what the UV10th should have been. Wow. I'm tempted to send my UV neck up to LGM now....damn that looks good.

"shoot me an EMAIL." It's EMAIL and AIM only for me. PM's get checked about once a month.

Dave- shoot me an email when you get a chance. I've got an idea. (yes- that means everyone needs to back up 200 ft. LOL)

The RG-EGYPT story is kind of a long one. Shoot me an email and I'll tell it there. No pics or playing this afternoon; I got talked into beers with the neighbor and some friends. I'll get them up here VERY soon.

Derek- Not as of yet. The largest black string they make as of today is a 50. (There's a chart of what's available right now on the first page of this thread). I just played a few notes on the RG-ARCH with the black strings. Heh heh...it takes a second to get used to seeing black there instead of silver (these are gonna be awesome on a maple fretboard!), but....they feel good, and have the same great tone my Tite-Fit's have. I played for about an hour straight and noticed NO wearing of the coating. A question I'll ask the DR guys the next time I speak with them: Will the coating wear off onto the fretboard? More playtime tomorrow afternoon...and pics as promised. :-)

They're not doing the 7-string sets in black, yet. They might. But...here's a couple of ideas.... Low B-regular E-BLACK A-regular D-BLACK G-regular B-BLACK E-regular ...or....The Stripe!: LowB-regular E-regular A-BLACK D-BLACK G-BLACK B-regular E-regular

I just found this in the pack of Black strings: "IMPORTANT! The enclosed EXTRA strings represent a major step forward in protection and longevity as well as colorizing. The life of these strings will be more than twice as long as an uncoated string. Some players report the EXTRA strings last 3, 4, or even 5 times longer. However, in the area where your pick strikes the string, the color may wear through within 2-4 hours of constant playing. This will not effect the tone or the life of the string, only the appearance. Some players do not wear through the color at all. The good new is that though this might happen in your case, the life and tone of these EXTRA strings will not be effected." [NOTE: "new" should be "news". I left the typo in. Also, it should be "affect/ed" instead of "effect/ed". :-)] I'll keep you all updated as to the pick area wearing. I'm no Rusty Cooley, so it should be fine for a few weeks/months. The black strings are now stretching on my RG-ARCH. It's got an ebony fretboard, so the black-on-black looks sweet! Very goth. LOL Camera batteries are charging.... :-)

These links should help: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/diagrams.html#oem (Excuse the slow site; it takes TIME to load up that big ol' Jacks*n background pic. LOL) http://www.guitarelectronics.com/wiring/co...colorcodes.html (Not complete, but....a good place to start) Also, check for the "Terminal Cross Reference" chart on the lower right side of the diagrams.

Here are the model numbers to help in your searches: Electric (Black Coated) - EX-BK-9 (9, 11, 16, 24, 32, 42) - EX-BK-9/46 (9, 11, 16, 26, 36, 46) - EX-BK-10 (10, 13, 17, 26, 36, 46) - EX-BK-11 (11, 14, 18, 28, 38, 50) Acoustic Phosphor Bronze (Clear Coated) - EXR-10 (10, 14, 22, 30, 38, 48) - EXR-11 (11, 15, 22, 30, 40, 50) - EXR-12 (12, 16, 24, 32, 42, 54) - EXR-13 (13, 17, 26, 34, 45, 56) Bass (Black Coated) - BK-MR-45 (45, 65, 85, 105) - BK-MR5-45 (45, 65, 85, 105, 125) "Bootzilla" Stainless Steel (Clear Coated) These are the strings Bootsy Collins uses for that funky funk stuff he does. - BZ-45 (45, 65, 85, 105) - BZ-50 (50, 70, 90, 110) - BZ5-45 (45, 65, 85, 105, 125) - BZ5-45/130 (45, 65, 85, 105, 130) I found most of them at JustStrings.com. I've not used that site before, so I have no clue as to their service or prices. CLICK HERE for a direct link to the DR Strings ordering page on their site. I'm not sure if anyone else has them available online.

I just got off the phone with the folks at DR. Nice guys. The 7-string sets in black are an official "maybe". If they do sets of 12s, then we're in luck because the big one will be a 52 or 56. We just have to be patient on that one. The colored, or "rainbow", sets are on the way. Check back with the site in a month or so. They're still workin' on putting them all together. And some more good news: They are looking at doing one-color sets. Again, this an official "maybe", but think about a blue and/or a red, and maybe another color. For now, it's black for 6-strings. :-) Pics and tone results....maybe tonight!

The folks I've met from DR are super cool. I'm sure if the right order was placed (hint: LOTS), they'd get ya whatever you needed. Here's a couple of numbers for you guys: 800-782-1901 800-809-8295 (fax) Give 'em a buzz. The worst they can say is, "*click*". :-) Color Ideas: - Red White Blue mix for LGM's JEM911 (or all one of those colors) - All Green for a Green Meanie Replica - All Yellow for that "vintage" look, even on the strings. - All Black for that Gibs*n LP "Black Beauty". - All Purple for anything you play Prince on. :-P

Some of you know that I'm a DR guy when it comes to strings (Good enough for Jeff Healey's awesome-playing blind azz; good enough for my hacking). Well, DR brought out some new strings at Summer NAMM, and I think it adds a nice finishing touch to the guitar. 1. Coated Black Strings. A semi-matte/semi-gloss black set of strings. Yes- all 6 of them. There's a few size sets available (9 up to 50), but no full 7-string sets as of yet. I'm gonna keep hounding them on that. 2. Multi-colored strings. These were originally designed to help teachers- "3rd fret, blue string"- but I figured they'd be great with holoflash and/or swirl finishes. I'm trying to remember the colors: red, blue, green, black, purple and....yellow? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. On a white Str*t, they looked pretty cool. Both sets are acoustically transparent. If you *can* hear it, tell EJ I said "Hi." :-) It also extends the life of the string- keeps gunk, stuff, boogers, nail funk, and all that gnarly sweat away from the strings. They won't last forever, but it certainly will help them last longer, esp. in harsher/high humidity climates and locations. I put it in this topic 'cause I think it adds a truly original finishing touch to the guitar. I picked up my first 2 sets of black ones today at GC $9.99 each. Anyway, i'll update as to sound and string life vs. regular DR Tite Fit 9's. I'll get some pics up as soon as the batteries recharge in the camera. www.drstrings.com

I got to play with a SpeedLoader about a year ago. It's pretty neat, but....you run into a lot of Steinberger-isms: - Kooky lookin' headstocks. If you do have tuners, they're just dead weight. If you have a blank headstock with no holes, it looks....unfinished IMO. Check out the BC Rich Warlock (I think it was the Warlock..the quilted red one). There's just something.....missing. - Parts? Pfft...just dump the contents of your wallet on the floor. Kick it over to them. -Routing. No way, buster. I'm not routing my guitar for that. Drop it in, or drop it off. Sorry. - STRINGS!!! Now, the guys at FR told me that they're workin' on deals with all the major manufacturers of strings so they'd available "everywhere", but......so did Steinberger. It comes down to a Spinal Tap Managment question: Can I find SpeedLoader strings in the middle of the night in Austin? It's great to be able to change strings in the middle of a solo, but....only if you have the strings. :-)

A little inspiration: http://www.popcanamp.com From the review of a buddy of mine in the Denver/Boulder area, these little guys sound pretty good. Might have to pick me up a 6-pack. :-)

I took one of the 9V Marsh*ll 'Micro Stacks' and re-housed it, upon the advice of an extremely well-respected luthier. He said, "Put it in one of those nice wood cigar boxes that the smoke shops throw away every day. Good tone if you can get some wood around it!" After adding a 2nd speaker, and getting it into the cigar box, the thing sounds.......well, better than before. :-) Maybe I need to quilt it.....

Scott's correct.... The VLX-91 swtich, aka the OTAX switch, is 10x the switch that the 555 has in it. The OTAX switch offers something like 44 different possible wiring combinations/selections- more than the MegaSwitch! It's going to be more expensive because it's built better than the 'regular' 5-way that Ibanez uses in some of their guitars. I love the loop-thru connection availability. Provides a super-solid connection between wire and switch contact. I HIGHLY recommend using the VLX-91/OTAX switch.

Two quick tangents, then back to the normal thread..... Direct quotes from "that VH guitar garage" site: "We are closing up VH-Guitarstore so that we can focus on production of Trillian Guitars and another famous name to be announced later. Our last day will be September 6th." I couldn't have asked for a better b-day present! :-) Have a little run-in with EVH's lawyers, did we? "{Link to Project Guitar.com}Basically a site for the home do- it -yer-selfer. Be very careful about the tutorials, especially the painting ones. For some reason, they publish tutorials from anyone regardless if they are correct. Basically everyone over there is just a home hobbyist without any real knowledge." Well, except for those who build and/or modify guitars for a living. Doug- why would you leave up a link to a site you hate? Do you like libel suits *that* much? I don't get it....

Here it is. The definitive wiring for the 1st Gen. Ibanez Double-Edge guitars, including links. I've also included a section on "what does what now" regarding the controls. I'll ask Brian to post this entire thing on the regular site as a downloadable DOC file for those looking to do either the KJG Wiring Mod, or just work on/install a 1st Gen. Double Edge system. I'll get a PDF available for everyone shortly. ***NOTE: THE "KJG WIRING MOD" IS AN EASY PROJECT, BUT A COMPLETE DOUBLE EDGE SYSTEM INSTALLATION IS FOR ADVANCED FOLKS ONLY.*** NO- I AM NOT KIDDING! You can do some major damage to the D.E. system if you don't know what you're doing. If you have ANY questions about the KJG Wiring Mod or any of the D.E. System, please feel free to email me. I'll gladly answer your questions. Prefix: This is a direct copy-paste from my old posts on another site. Please excuse the mess. I promise it'll look good for the DOC and PDF files. :-) COMPLETE WIRING DIAGRAM LINK: http://www.jemfest.com/misc/kevan/dewiring-full1.jpg ORIGINAL POSTS: Saturday, October 14, 2000 - 12:58 am ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I've been working with Ibanez and L.R.Baggs to come up with an alternate way to wire up the Double Edge trem systems found on the J-Custom and Prestige guitars (i.e. the RG-7-CST, RG-6-CST, S-6-CST, and others). As an owner of an RG-7-CST, I found myself limited by only being able to have EITHER magnetic or piezo going at any one time. This is courtesy of the two-way toggle switch. After several discussions with both companies, I've come up with a simple setup for running both magnetic AND piezo at the same time. This might sound a little complicated so if you do need help, feel free to email or IM me. DISCLAIMER: While both Ibanez and L.R. Baggs have been extremely helpful with this project, neither has tested nor approved of this modification. If you do decide to do it, you will probably void your warranty and could really screw up the wiring of your guitar. If you have any doubts, please have an authorized tech check it out for you. You will need a three-way mini-toggle switch (available from StewMac; Part #1223 (chrome) or #1224 (black)). The switch must be DPDT (double pole, double throw) and be configured for an "ON-ON-ON" setup. Remove the old switch, and wire up the new 3-way. Diagram is ©2000, 2001 Kevan J. Geier. Use without permission gives me permission to sue your ass. NOTE: The "keyway" is the little notch cut down the shaft of the switch...through the threads. If you look for it, you'll see it. Now, don't worry about the red wires; they both do the same thing, so just get them soldered to the right points on the switch. Also note that Black Wire "A" is ground, and that Black Wire "B" is from your 5-way switch. There's only one orange wire. The number "7211" was the number on mine; your switch might have a different number. Use the keyway as your reference. NOTE: Your wire colors may vary. Consult the diagram for cross-reference. As the picture says, the output jack wiring will remain the same. This means "don't touch them". NOTE: This wiring is for MONO mode only. The "button" for selecting mono or stereo should be in the "up" position. The magnetic volume will control the magnetic p/u's, and the lower control will adjust the volume on the piezo pickups. The tone control only takes care of the magnetic p/u's. This also means that you will have to run two separate (mono) cables from Outputs Jacks A and B. -Output Jack A will be your mag. p/u's. -Output Jack B will be your piezo's. -Plug Output Jack A into an amp, and Output Jack B into a separate amp. -Adjust volumes as desired on each amp. Enjoy the results. I sure do. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tue Jun 19, 2001 11:56 pm Post subject: Double Edge Owners- READ THIS! I thought it might be helpful to post this again, as I found that, when I was looking for info, the diagram link was broken. Maybe the font & image link can be fixed in the original post (people may not scroll)? I'm not a mod, so I can't do this. For now, here's a repost. Maybe this should go into the archives, as it is a great mod, and 99% of people will come here to find it. After experimenting with my RG-7-CST some, I've come up with MORE options if you go with the KJG Wiring Modification. Here's the "wiring breakdown" with regard to button position: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- BUTTON UP: •3-way Toggle Controls: Pos. 1- Mag. only with 5-way ("Extra" knob used for tone control). Pos. 2(center)- Both Mag. and Piezo combined. (5-way still functions & tone for Mag. is still the "Extra" knob) Pos. 3- Piezo only. (No 5-way; no tone) •Volume: Mag. volume only. (works independently) •Tone: Piezo volume only. (works independently) •"Extra" Knob: Tone for Mag. only. •Output A: Mag. •Output B: Piezo. Cable Suggestion: (2) mono cables, or a Y-cable into a stereo cable (then a splitter at the other end). This will give you two completely independent signals. A single stereo cable will NOT work without a Y-adapter/splitter from the guitar. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- BUTTON DOWN: •3-way Toggle Controls: Pos 1- Mag. with 5-way; normal tone control position. Pos 2(center)- Mag. with 5-way & Piezo. (Tone knob is used for "panning" between Mag. and Piezo. "Extra" knob used for tone control of Mag.) Pos 3- Piezo only. (No 5-way. No tone) •Volume: Mag. volume for Pos. 1 & 2; Piezo volume when in Pos. 3. •Tone: "pan" between Mag. & Piezo- Pos. 2 only. •"Extra" Knob: Tone for Pos. 1. •Output A: Mag. & Piezo (via one cable; always separate signals for Mag. and Piezo) •Output B: Not used. Cable Suggestion: (1) mono cable. This offers only one signal. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- -Thanks to Todd Crawford for his help with this project and alternate testing.

Hey Everyone! While away in "Kev Land" working on a cool little product for guitarists, I came across a few kickazz tools that I think project folks could benefit from. Ok, here we go: Mag Mat from Craftsman: http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/pr...pid=00947086000 Ever have that one tiny screw roll off the table, then down an A/C duct? Oh....me neither. LOL If the link is broken try: www.craftsman.com and use Part Number: 47086. Automatic wire stripper: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tNumber=360-627 I owned one much like it for 10+ years, then broke it working on some Romex. I finally found these guys and bought two of 'em. They're great! If the link is broken, try: www.partsexpress.com and use Part Number: 360-627. Enjoy!

Usually figured woods are the only ones that get graded. It's funny to think that the woods we like the most (see also most Tom Anderson tops) come from the most f-ed up lookin' trees. These trees have tons of knots and twists and turns. Anything but straight growth. :-) My theory is: The closer the tree was to the chemical waste dump, the better the figure. LOL Typical body woods, like basswood and alder, *can* be graded, but are generally cut in such large quantities that it'd be crazy to grade them all. If you can find a wood supply store that does grade alder and such, go for it. A "ply top" usually means that the body is two (or more) pieces of wood. One piece is (x) thickness and the next is (y) thickness, glued on top. Glued pieces of wood are much stronger than wood alone, but they *can* (not always) detract from the tone you're trying to achieve. Remember: Figured woods only go from 1A to 5A. There's no such thing as a "10A". If someone tries to tell you the wood is a 10A or a 20A , tell them to stop smokin' out of P.R.Smith's bong as you walk to a reputable wood supply store.

Aside from Darren being a very good friend of mine, there's one other big reason why I'd get a swirl from him instead of the other guy: A few years ago, 1999 I believe, there was a submarine for sale on FleaBay. This was not a little rinky-dink, 2 person, Sharper Image-type thing. This was the real deal: 200'+ old-school Russian submarine. During a conversation I had with Darren that week, he said, "Oh man! I've got to get this sub! I WANT TO SWIRL IT!". Any guy who can swirl a sub, can swirl anything of mine. :-) P.S.- Yes- he's swirlled boobs before...back when he was younger. LOL

Bri- Clear Casting Resin is NOT fun to work with. I did a few projects many moons ago, and though they came out well, I'm not rushing back to the store to get more. :-) 1. VENTILATION! Get as many fans as you can to remove that caustic smelly stuff. Even doing it outside is rough. 2. Measure your resin and catalyst BEFORE you lay it into your mold. It's not rocket science, but get as close as you can. 3. Get more fans. At least 2 more. 4. Wear gloves...and clothes that can sit outside (by the fans) for a couple of days. Don't plan on wearing the clothes to a nice dinner ever again. :-P 5. Fans still on? LOL It's not too expensive, from what I can remember- about $20/gal, plus catalyst (a couple of bucks. It can be cool, esp. if you want to do something that's truly unique. If you're just looking for thick clear plates, I'd suggest the link above. If you want to put a bunch of scorpions or "taranchulas" in it, give it a shot. If you've got any other questions, feel free to email/IM me. Good luck!

Hi everyone. I'd like to formally announce that I'm retiring from Jemsite.com and it's Forum. Myself, the information in my head, and my contacts will no longer be available as a resource at Jemsite.com. Don't ask the reasons why. Evidence is all over that site. Figure it out on your own. Those who would like to contact me may do so via email (kevan@jemfest.com) or on IM (rg egypt). Thanks to those who made the last 7 years fun as hell. I hope to see you at Jemfest! Goodbye. Kevan www.jemfest.com

All of them are factory except for those listed below. Working from this pic, starting at the doubleneck and working clockwise: JEM77-FPDN- (1 of 1) Scored from a Chesbro employee who didn't want to finish his project. All I need are 6 used lefty tuners and this thing is done. 12-string hardtail up top, and 6-string with LoPro trem on the bottom. J-Custom RG-USA-1. (1 of 1) This guitar has a sister (RG-USA-2) where the flag is 'angled' the opposite direction. It has an EXTREMELY thick satin finish. It's kind of like an egg shell. In the neck pocket and on the neck heel are the 'notes' from the luthier about finish, hardware, pickup config. etc.....in Japanese. :-) Belshe Custom Telecaster. (1 of 1) This was built by a luthier friend of mine in Texas. The parts come from all over the country (Alaska, California, Vermont, etc). The EMG's with that tasty swamp ash body, then put thru my Bassman amp get you some really nice "Texas Tone". Note the Novak fretboard. J-Custom RG-PAINT-3 (1 of 21). This has the same 'egg shell' finish as the RG-USA-1. It's hand-signed and numbered by the artist. Up close the paint job is very cool. This one came from Hong Kong for Christmas 2002. Setup so nicely, it's become one of my new main players. J-Custom RG-ART (1 of less than 24). I love this guitar as much as I love my toes. If it was a 7-string, I might not ever leave the house. :-) TUNE fretless bass. (1 of ???). I picked this up at a local music store just looking to mess around with some low end on occassion. It turned out it was one of a few that TUNE made to show Ibanez how cool their basses were. TUNE went away, and Ibanez came out with the Soundgear line. :-) This guitar has active pickups, an angled jack, and the lack of frets makes it a lot of fun to play. J-Custom RG-7-CST. (1 of 15). This is the first guitar with the KJG Wiring Modification (see the Tutorials section here for more info on that). It's my #2 player. 7-strings, mahogany body, nice flamey top, ebony board and the piezos. A few of us CST owners feel that this could be the finest all-around guitar Ibanez has ever built. UV777-PBK. (1 of LOTS). This one is pretty much stock. It's a great player with INSANELY low action. I countersunk the straplocks into the horn and back end of the guitar. Looks, and plays, pretty slick. :-) J-Custom RG-ARCH. (1 of less than 24). An RG-shape with an arch top? Oh man....it's SO comfy to play. The gold leaf inlay is a little "foo-foo" for me, but this one can be played effortlessly for hours on end. It's got a sweet sounding mahogany body. J-Custom RG-GEAR. (1 of less than 24). This is a mahogany body with 'gear' walnut inlays. The inlays are cut with a laser, so they fit in there PERFECTLY. I can't find a drop of filler anywhere, even on the logo inlayed on the headstock. To top it off, the top and headstock are cut (also with the laser), perpendicular to the strings, with a sharp convoluted shape. The body leaves little grooves in your forearm after playing it for a while. :-) J-Custom RG-EGYPT. (1 of 1). I looked for this one for 5 years and finally found it in, of all places, Bluff City, TN. :-) The figures are hand-carved and hand-painted on the top and it looks like the headstock heiros are laser cut. The heiroglyphics and figures depicted are legit. As you can imagine, I haven't played this one a lot; it still has the factory strings on it! :-P When I do finally change the strings, it'll probably get a lot more play time. I hope that answered your questions.