Skr4ped

Unfortunately I'm going to college at the end of the year, so I can't spend any of my money

If you're talking about the stuff on the side, it's a bit of tung oil I missed. I have no idea how I missed it, and I didn't notice it until I took the picture.

Hmm, that's actually one thing I hadn't noticed. I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see if it's just the camera angle, or if the pickup is off. I had the board radius'd and slotted by LMI when I ordered it, but I did everything else.

This thing took me 6 months of not-so-steady work, and good amount of cash for high school student. But the lessons I learned were worth ten times that There are definitely some things I will do differently next time, and things that I feel like an idiot for doing this time (though I won't point them out unless someone notices, haha), but all in all I think it turned out pretty good. She plays nice, looks nice, and sounds nice, and I had a lot of fun doing it. SPECS Body Mahogany Back Flame Maple Top StewMac GoldenAge humbuckers 2 Vol / 2 Tone / 3-way Switch Schaller Strap Locks Neck Maple Neck Ebony Fretboard Jumbo Fretwire 13° Head Angle Side Dots Only Graphite Nut The neck itself is on roughly a 3° angle. Bolt-on construction, with black mounting ferrules and screws. Hardware as all gold. Finish is nitro lacquer. More Photos Any other questions just let me know.

Yea, I should have mentioned it's plastic binding. I'll try that, thanks.

I'm working on a LP project right now, with a bound neck and headstock. I got the headstock bound, and it looked decent for my first binding job, and I move on to routing the channel for the neck binding. Well, when I got the end of the fretboard, I slipped. I took a chunk of binding out of the headstock. It would be very difficult to remove this particular piece, and replace it without a visible gap, because it tapers of towards the fretboard at one end, and is overlapped by another piece of binding at the other. Does anyone know of a way to fill this gap? I've though about using epoxy and some dust from my remaining binding, but I was wondering if there was a better way.

Does anyone here use a hand plane (non-electric) to plane their body blanks? I've heard some people say they get more accurate results with a hand plane than with an electric planer. How big od a plane do you use? 9.5" bench plane?

Why not do a stain on the top, and then just do a solid black finish on the back and sides? No one's really going to see the back, and it would save you a lot of work.

I use a surform, and a round rasp. I rough sand with a drum sander in my drill press, and then sand it smooth.

Is that a boat prop on your drill press?

actually i searched that thread before i posted this topic...that thread is the reason in the first place that i was thinking of lighter tuners for the neck heavy lp copy i just bought.i also ran a google search and a yahoo search on open back sperzel guitar tuners,but for some reason i get nothing but trash there is no link in that thread to the tuners he uses,although he does name them.i just can't find a place to buy them and i also want other ideas as to what might be an even lighter tuner.so ,even though your point about searching is something that everyone should try first,it is not really applicable in this particular case.understand? Actually the link is in there. 8th post. http://www.tkinstruments.com/ understand?

Check out the thread about Soloway guitars here. There's a link in there somewhere to the open back Sperzels Jim uses. And you all rag on the new guys for not using the search button

That's weird. You'd think the area around the joint would be dark if it was dirt.

Judging from the pics it looks like you wiped off the excess glue, and when it dried the glue shrunk and went below the surface.

I totally agree. Go with the white bobbins.

Nut Width: 1-11/16" Heel Width: 2-3/16"

This link might help you: http://www.woodfinder.com/index.php

Yea, I saw the link in your LED tutorial. I actually posted this before I posted in your thread, when Lovekraft suggested it. That's one of the two places I've been looking at. Thanks again I haven't ordered anything yet, I'm still in the planning stages of my next build.

I don't have any experience with TurboCAD (I use AutoCAD), but I know it's free. Go here to download it.

this will cut a body So will this

Thanks, that helped a lot. But now I have another question, what is the difference between endglow (here) and regular unjacketed fiber (here)? My concerns with the endglow fiber are 1. it's only .75mm (I'd like 1.5mm), 2. it's jacketed, so I'd have to strip it, and 3. it would take about a lot more room (vertically) than the unjacketed fiber, which I could lay flat. Although I guess 3 doesn't matter, since I'd need to strip it. I guess the .75mm size is my only big issue

I've been looking everywhere to find some bare fiber optic cable to do some side-dot inlays on my next project. Digikey.com has cable, but the only cable with a decent description is a non-stock item, and you have to buy like 63 meters of it. There are no decent electronics stores around here (RadioShack is the only electronics store, and they don't carry bare fiber optic cable.) If anyone has seen or bought the stuff, let me know.

I have an old ('50s maybe?) 12" Craftsman bandsaw. It definitely makes life easier. You don't have to worry about the blade spinning/tilting like on a jigsaw. Just don't try making an oak explorer with a dull blade

It's a 12 inch bandsaw. We actually got it working, just needed a good cleaning and a new belt. It works MUCH better now

The motor on my bandsaw died today. It's off an OLD Craftsman bandsaw (old enough so the whole thing is cast iron). The motor isn't stock, but it's a single phase 1/2HP 1725RPM motor. Me and my dad pulled it apart today and we're pretty sure it's the start capacitor. Instead of replacing the $150 motor we'd like to change the capacitor first. The only problem is we're not sure what to buy. The motor looks similar to this one.