jer7440

I don't think Myka is using the bar sander to set the frets, he's just using it to level. As far as accuracy of those sanders I would bet they are within +/-.002". Those sanders are made of extruded aluminum, in other words they melt the aluminum and push it through a form. Kinda like Playdough. I would thing the only variable would come from the cooling of the aluminum, but I think that is a pretty consistent deal.

Link doesnt seem to be working on the board. Not sure why.

Sorry, all I have is my labor to trade.

I've never built any electronic gear but I will take a stab at this. Each column is a list of the parts required for this project. It looks like there are 16 caps, 20 resistors, 1 semiconductor and 3 switches. Each part is labled with a component typed (c = capacitor, r = resistor etc.), and a number that should correlate with the schematic. If you find C1 on the schematic, that should be the location of a 15n capacitor. I would say you need to go through the list and count up how many of each component you need ie. 2 15n caps and 4 47n caps etc.

Need any CNC work done?

Hey I just wondered what software you are using to get your artwork to cad to cam? I'm building a guitar on the cnc at my work, so I find your work very interesting.

Bigd, do you have a pic of the collet?

Cudbucket, I was just checking out the finishing stages on your site. I have the same compressor. It's great to see that it will work for guitars!

Why don't you shoot me a PM with your email and what file type you would prefer.

Try this cme tools 1/2" endmill 2" length of cut, centercutting

Hey, Derek and anyone else, Like XLR8 I have been using a 4 fluted endmill in my LP project in my cnc. Seems to be working well. The cutters I am using are carbide and they are center cutting, so you can plunge. I found this place online that sells the cutters I am using. Their prices can't be beat. cme-tools

First I found a DXF outline of a LP. I cleaned up the datat so it was all arcs and lines, instead of a bunch of little line segments. Next I used some basic info I knew about the LP top to get started. I knew the top should be about 3/4" thick at the thickest point. I knew that the shallowest point of the carve went down to 1/4 of an inch at the edge. I knew that the neck angle was about 4 deg starting at the end of the fretboard. I knew that there was another angle that tapered from the bridge to the end of the fretboard. The first surface I created was the 4 deg surface where the neck joins the body. On the LP the fretboard is glued to the body so this surface needs to be correct. From there I created the angled surface from the bridge to the edge of the fretboard (some times calle the pickup plane). After all that was done I started creating 3d curves that went from my major thickness of 3/4" down to my minor thickness of 1/4". These curves became the borders for my surface patches. If you were to look at my cad work for the top, you would see that the top is made up of 12 individual surface patches. This was all time consuming to say the least. I did all my work in a cad/cam program called mastercam. I've been reading alot lately about people using a program called Rhino 3d to design guitars. I downloaded a trial of Rhino but I really haven't had time to figure it out. I don't have a problem sharing my surface file. I was actually thinking of donating it to the download section of the forum. Does any one know how I would do this?

Looking great Donald. I really like your headstock shape.

I have thought about it, but I don't have access the necessary equipment to do it. I'm pretty happy with the surface I came up with. It's a little more curvy than the regular LP.

Man, I'll say it again, I love that swirl. Can't wait to see your tutorial. After I finish my LP I hope to build a shred machine as well and to swirl would be perfect.

How so? We can't force you to remain a hobbyist. There is nothing that I am doing that will either hold you back or stop you from excelling. It all comes down to how much you put into it and how much you really want it. It's all up to you. ← I think that was meant as a compliment. The fact that you are so dedicated to your craft that you would destroy something that you found to be subpar (but many would find to be great) rather than have it get out into the world. This dedication is a sign of your being a true craftsman.

Nice work Maiden. Love the color as well

I think it looks great. I wouldnt change a thing.

That looks great. Nice work. What will your finish be?

Thats interesting everything I have read online and in magazines says you should lap the sole perfectly flat.

yeah Maiden, I'm going to mill some chambers into the mahogony and the pickup openings will run into the chambers. Kind of like what Perry did on the vine. I'm also planning on carving the top before I glue it down. That way I can make sure my pickups go in the way they should before i'm committed.

Well, last update for this weekend. I roughed out the contour for the maple top. I left the perimeter .100" big all the way around. Hopefully when I cut the carve this buffer will confine any possible edge tearout. top contour After I cut the perimeter I drilled 3 holes that will locate the maple top the mahogany body. i also did some preliminary work on the pickup openings. I hoped to have pickup openings similar to Ormsbys vine guitar. The cutouts you see should give me the appropriate mounting surface once the top is carved. I can't cut all the way through yet as the pickup holes wouls surely tear out during carving. Here is what I have. Here are a couple of extra pics of the body and the top body and top 1 body and top 2

I picked up a stanley plane at a yard sale 2 days ago. A little research on the net show me that it was built between 1962 and 1967. The sole on this plane is so far from flat I can't believe it. I had read that the older stanely stuff was good, apparently I didn't find old enough! I'm going to have some serious hours into getting that sucker flat.

Next operation is to cut the outside perimeter of the body. Here is a pic of the mill making chips. I was taking about .200" depth of cut, so it took about seven passes to get to this. body contour 1 Then using a chisel I removed the scrap. (have to pry that tape loose) body contour 2 And finally here is the result. body contour 3 Next up is that lovely piece of maple in that last pic