CudBucket

Thanks Maiden. I was planning on sanding back to at least 320 today and then putting on another wash coat. I got very, very little raised grain with the first coat of black. I'm using water based dye for the black wash and so that would count as the second attempt to raise the grain. I just want to get as much black in there as possible.

Thank God that's not true.

Routing's all done and the control and bridge holes are all centre punched. You're right tho', I wouldn't stain it if everything hadn't been worked out and checked. (edited 'cause on re-reading it sounded a little off ) ← Oh, sorry, I couldn't tell that from the pic. I love the color. What kind of stain are you using? Dave

jay, well I'd have no problem with that if it was moved there. I was thinking that when the guitar is done, I should probably re-arrange the photos into more cohesive groups. Godin, I was planning on sanding the board to a higher grit but when I did the 400 it started to shine and got so smooth I didn't think it was necessary. It's super, super hard too and was a challenge to sand or cut. I'll show you guys some pics of the beveled frets tonight. I'm waiting on a file to dress the ends but the bevel is done.

Yesterday, I block sanded the body to 150 (after having raised the grain the night before). In fact, I had to iron out 2 or 3 dings I created by handling the body 100,000 times since I started it. Then, gave it two wet coats of water-based black dye as a wash. Naturally, I wiped it on. Today it looks kind of blotchy and gray. Tonight, I'll sand it back to 220 and inspect the body for any imperfections before applying the color dye. Should I sand to 320 or is 220 ok? Thanks. Dave

Looks great. Although I'd be afraid to stain before the body is completely routed and drilled for bridge, controls, etc.

I don't know that I'd agree. Sure. Click the "search" link and type "scallop" in the "Search By Keywords" text box. Then click the "Perform The Search" button. But I'm a little confused. Your site offers custom work. Why would you need to ask for help on scalloping after you've offered such services?

If you're looking to find info on scalloping, great. Come to this site, register and use the SEARCH function. You first post was a blatant annoucement of your "custom replica" that was going on up on ebay. That's totally different. Why would you be looking for "information" on scalloping if the guitar is alreay done? Plus, you didn't host simple pics to "show" us your "work". You gave us a link to your web site where your "services" include mods and "custom guitars". As far as I'm concerned, it's a lame spam attempt. Lastly, your subsequent posts are a lame attempt at back-pedaling. I believe all you wanted to do was draw attention to your auction and maybe to drum up "business" for your "services". That's my piece and I've said it. I won't bring it up again. As for your scalloping, it needs alot of work. In my opinion, you shouldn't be charging people money for that. You'll find plenty of information to help you improve on this site. If that's truely your intention, then welcome to the board. Dave

For the record, I didn't insult him. I simply called him to task for the cheap spam.

Haha! Yeah that's right. That's what I did!

Why didn't I PM him? Why would I owe him that courtesy? I think he came here pimping this crap guitar and I wanted every one here to know how I felt. I owe alot to this forum. That's why I support it. Just trying to keep the neighborhood clean. Peace.

I'm sorry but the more I read your post the wierder it feels to me. You took an old mexican strat, did a mediocre at best, scallop on it, scratched it up and then send anyone who wants to see it to your website where you advertise "modifications" and "custom guitars"? Then you spam this site with the announcement that this guitar will go up on Ebay to the highest bidder. But you really only wanted to educate us as to the process? You've gotta be kidding me. Plus, this is your first post and your screen name is your website address? Dude, you've come to the wrong place. If you have any real interest in learning how to work on or build guitars then pipe down and read as much as you can. You've got alot of nerve charging people for that type of work. To me, this is no different that Dino who came here trying to get folks to buy books that'll teach you how to spray paint. Take off man.

Who did the scalloping? It's a little uneven.

A 1/2" bit is too big as the radius is sitll 1/4" and those ears have a smaller radius at their peak. You need a 1/4" bit. The problem with that is, I doubt you'll find one with a bearing on it. So what you need to do is make a template that is actually oversized so that you can use a 1/4" bit with say a 1/2" or larger bushing. So, your template must be oversized by half the difference in size between the bushing you use and the 1/4" straight bit. It's a template that's a minor pain in the ass to make, but you'll only have to do once. Dave

Why can't you just file the ears by hand? You'll have more control that way.

I just think from the top, the foam will look shoddy. Unless you're going to use a pickguard.

Looks like the neck doesn't fit because he hasn't rounded the end yet. That's all.

Yeah, you can warn people for this a million time......but I guess you have to experience it yourself to know what to watch for. And with solid finish no one will ever know. I like your fretboard nail trick. Same trick could be used with other type glue joints.......hmmmm! Interesting....I had never thought of that. Great neat trick. Thanks. ← Hey! That was my trick!! I use it on bodies too.

Uh no. They provide a counter-force to the load imposed by string tension. So therefore, if anything, they challenge the strength of a neck. You clearly don't know what you're talking about here. Think about it, truss rods are in fact, barely even attached to the neck. It's very much an independent structure in the neck. It's therefore quite impossible for the rod to "add strength" to it. Again, you have this backwards. Apparently, it really isn't that simple to you. The strings don't bend the truss rod. They bend the wood. The truss rod stops that from happening. But that doesn't mean it makes the neck stronger. It wouldn't stop the neck from breaking off in accident. And again, the truss doesn't counter the bowing of the wood per se. It counters the forces creating that bow in the wood. If I were you I'd spend more time reading and observing than spewing.

Hmmm. I don't know that's true. Take two pieces of wood and glue them together. The next day, put it in a vice and hit it with a hammer or apply some force to the glue line until it breaks. Did it break on the seam or elsewhere in the wood? Don't bother, I'll tell you. It'll likely break in the wood and not on the glue seam. Why? If jointed properly and the glue allowed to cure, the joint will ALWAYS be stronger than the wood.

Oh sorry. I didn't see that. Duff, I'd fill that with wood not foam.

I was just wondering the same thing. Plus, in general, the routing doesn't look straight. How did you route through? Well, I guess I know how but why?

I used a Hot Rod in my project and I just used silicon at the ends to hold it in.

Sexybeast, ha ha! We're all copying someone brother. Good luck with yours. Dave

Thanks! You're gonna make me get a swelled head! The neck's almost done. Hope to bevel it tomorrow with the beveler I made today. Updated the "Slotting The Fretboard" page again. http://www.downinfrontht.com