samoht
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Everything posted by samoht
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i give you 200$ for your randy rhoads copy (GOTM march 2004) but only if you agree to pay half of the shipping costs.
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i've scalloped a ibanez rg507 once.. i think it had wizard neck or something. it turned out pretty good. don't scallop too deep though!! there isn't really a need for deep scallops because of the jumbo frets.
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thank you very much. that's about all the information i need. it seems to be a little longer than the one i have, but that's not a problem. the other dimensions should be spot on.
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hmm.. i need all the outside dimensions of the collet. the lenght, the diameter of the thinnest part and the thickest part etc.. i know i will have trouble trying to translate measurements in inches to an understandable form, but i guess i have no choice. it seems that there's no accurate measurements of the collet at the official dremel site. i know what collet i need for my router bit, but i don't know if it will fit in the dremel copy i have.. my friend has a black & decker which has much smaller collet than mine, so...
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anyone? 28 users online and not one has both a dremel and a caliper
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what happened to my post? someone deleted it? please!!! dimensions for the dremel collet? i don't wanna order one without knowing it will fit into my crappy copy.
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what? steer head? drak. photos please! i really admire your work! i'd like to see more.
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i'm not sure what you mean by that.. can you post a picture of it maybe?
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[quote name='Simo' date='Jun 28 2004, 06:17 PM']I'm from a small town called Burntwood in Staffordshire, England [/quote] aren't you finnish?
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this is a joke right? i really didn't understand half of your post.. (me english not so very good)
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are you absolutely sure it's the one in the middle?
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well i widened the four slots and sawed them a few mm deeper.. just tried it on a piece of wood and the bit seems to stay in it's place much better now. i did notice a small change in the depth in a part where i had used too much force, it was like 0,5mm (before it was more like 3-4mm). i'm still gonna order a original dremel collet and try that. now i know why this dremel copy was 19,90€ thanks for the advice dudes. it seems that the problem wasn't the too narrow slots. the slots simply were too short. i saw a photo of an original dremel collet and the slots were like 5mm longer.
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the cheapest i could find it's KINZO! i'm gonna try some other collets and see if they'd work.
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thanks! the collet on my cheap dremel copy is made from brass. i did tighten it properly when i routed the slots and i just got the damn thing yesterday, so the collet isn't worn at all.. i'm gonna file the slots a little wider and see if it would grab the bit tighter. also the bit i'm using wasn't made for this dremel copy though it should be the same size.
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what's the name of the part that holds the bits? there's a hole trough it and the other end is thicker with tapered end and has four slots that allow the end to tighten the bit when the other part is screwed on it.. i was thinking of carefully filing the four slots a little bigger so they could move more inwards when tightened.. would this make any sence? please forgive me my bad english and inform me if you don't understand what i'm trying to say
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well.. i finally made a perfect attachment for my dremel copy for routing the binding channel. i tested it on scrap for some time until i was comfortable trying to route the real body. i started routing and everything seemed ok until the router bit came loose and made about 3mm deeper slot on the side of the body!! that's actually not so big of a deal. i can repair it easily, but does anyone know what i could do to keep the router bit tightly in it's place? i wouldn't wanna do the same thing again
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i've saved some mahogany and maple dust and use them to fill dents and small holes with epoxy. it really is a good alternative. ofcourse it doesn't matter what wood is used, but i like to match the color.
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i'd fill it with a piece of wood if i were you.
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to me building from scratch means doing all the woodwork myself from planks and buying the hardware (which i'd also make myself if possible) from somewhere.
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it's usually the string in that kind of situations. you should also check that the bridge and nut look ok. does the string rest on the edge of the nut right where the fingerboard ends and how deep? i can't think of anything else that might cause such problems. again.. it's probably the string. if you haven't changed strings for a long time, you should change them all. you'll be surprised with the sound! just ignore the error message next time. it works. btw.. seagulls are fantastic acoustic guitars! some are so good you can't even play because you're so amazed by the sound
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i was thinking of using the iron for straightening some very curly veneer before i attempt gluing it.. i'm pretty confident it might work with a little moisture, ironing against a flat board. what do you think? drak?
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thanks.. i really appreciate all the advice i get from you guys. i used a very thin layer of normal wood glue now and it worked perfectly! i had to make it from two pieces though because i ruined the big piece yesterday.. well.. live and learn
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hi. have you tried changing the string?
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i usually don't use that kind of language, but i didn't even notice i did this time..
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oh sorry