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Metalhead28

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Everything posted by Metalhead28

  1. Metalhead28
    I used to use AutoCAD extensively, I use a different software now but I still have A-CAD, so I may be able to help you here and there if you can't figure something out. Best thing to do would be to complete a few tutorials. There will be some in the manual or I'm sure you can find some online.
  2. Metalhead28
    You know....I've got some mahogany that big enough to do that with.......hmmmmmm
  3. Metalhead28
    I've got no tips for you, but I'm extremely jealous. I'd love to get my hands on that neck and hardware so I could build a new body and have the custom headless guitar that I've been jonesing for....someday. Good luck with the rebuild.
  4. Metalhead28
    I don't feel too conceited in saying that my favorite shape is my own guitar, after all - if it wasn't my favorite shape - I wouldn't have built it that way,
  5. Metalhead28
    I have to second Jaycee's suggestion. That book is where I started.
  6. Metalhead28
    I'm not particularly fond of Tele's, but this wood combo really looks cool.
  7. Metalhead28
    My opinion is that removing the pickup might be marginally better than removing the neck - but both are a royal pain compared to pulling off a trussrod cover on the headstock. And considering moving the pickup away from the neck, are you going to be moving it out of the optimum spot just for truss rod access? I certainly wouldn't do that.
  8. Metalhead28
    I agree, horrible website. And the guy acts like a bonehead in his videos, that alone makes the whole enterprise look pretty stupid and avoidable to me. But my biggest issue - why would one try to demonstrate the "mindblowing sustain" characteristics with that extremely high gain tone? Listen to that, any old piece of crap guitar with any old piece of crap frets would sustain just as well. And wrestling the whammy bar? Gee, I wonder if that makes the notes last any longer...? He even pointed at the guitar with that silly smirk while he was letting an open string ring out. Does he have a Jet Nut too?
  9. Metalhead28
    Yes, that guitar is Zebrawood / Maple / Walnut
  10. Metalhead28
    Thanks guys. I knew I would feel better if a few people agreed with my assessment.
  11. Metalhead28
    I want to make a set neck version of a neck-thru that I built, but I don't want to create any sort of extension on the body in the way of a heel. I'm eyeballing the existing guitar and I think there is enough material there for a plenty strong neck joint. It'll be the full width of the neck and extend to the far edge of the pickup cavity. I'd just like to get some more opinions on this.
  12. Metalhead28
    Gorgeous guitar! You really do incredible work, man.
  13. Metalhead28
    I would first of take note of the amount of up bow, and also what string gauges are on it. Then I would remove the strings and record where it is in terms of bow, then remove the frets and record where it is, just so you have as clear an idea as possible of what you need to accomplish. Thicker fret tangs will force it into more backbow, but it's sort of trial and error to make sure you've picked the right size to go with.
  14. Metalhead28
    Really cool design. I'd put one pickup in it so that I could keep the alien face.
  15. Metalhead28
    I've never felt that way, but everyone is different. I've had some pretty low action on 12" boards too, but I don't think they feel as good. I guess it all depends on your hands.
  16. Metalhead28
    I look at it like this - A 10"-16" compound radius board may have a noticable advantage over a straight 10" radius board, but not so much over a straight 16" board. Speaking in terms of low action and fretting out. I like a 16" radius, and I don't find a compound radius board really any more confortable to play, so I'll not fool with one.
  17. Metalhead28
    If they're stubborn, you can loosen them with a little heat from a soldering iron.
  18. Metalhead28
    I just use a flat file and it doesn't really catch the wood at all. I also file them flush before I start bevelling, I don't think you could do a consistent bevel otherwise. Other people may do it differently. I seal up my exposed fret slots with superglue and ebony dust. I don't know how well the color will match with titebond, it may work fine. I prefer superglue because it's clear and will harden really fast. After all the slots are filled I hit the sides of the board with a sanding block and go through a few grits to smooth down all the little bumps. With ebony, they slots are totally undetectable.
  19. Metalhead28
    A quarter's thickness is about where I set my action actually. That goes for my USA Jackson too, it may have been a hair lower from the factory - but that was a long damn time ago...lol. That's around 0.065" by the way. You should be able to get at least that low without any buzz, provided you have no high (or low) frets. If you're certain of that, you may just be a few truss rod tweaks away from the sweet spot.
  20. Metalhead28
    If you have a machinist's rule or something adequate, ignore the buzz and just set the string height to where you would like it to be and try to get a measurement. I'm curious as to what sort of action you're shooting for.
  21. Metalhead28
    With the way I set my neck relief, the action does not get higher in the middle of the neck. If you start looking at the string height at the first fret and work your way up the neck, it just ramps up a little earlier. It still gets higher as you go, but it doesn't get very noticably higher between the 12th and 24th frets. You may want to play around with how much neck relief you use. I don't typically try and measure it, I just sight down the neck and look for a very subtle arc. I'll fret at the 1st and 14th frets and eyeball the string height, it should be very slight. I don't know if this helps.
  22. Metalhead28
    I just use a machinist's rule. Of course it's not going to give me a dead accurate number, but I don't need one. I just use it to get an idea of where I'm at, and then go by feel. With a bit of neck relief, and the bridge height close to where you want it, is it buzzing all over the neck?
  23. Metalhead28
    I didn't mean to sound insulting or anything, but it just sounded like a standard set up problem rather than anything mysterious. I know that I like action of about .06 at the 12th fret. Some people like it much lower but in my experience you can't do it without getting a little bit of buzz even if your frets are perfect. You might get 0.040 on the treble side. When you raise the action a bit to get away from the total fret out you were describing, does the buzz still happen everywhere? And you also mentioned that even with neck relief it was fretting out....did you try adjusting the neck relief with the action raised a bit? I'm just trying to help get to the bottom of things.
  24. Metalhead28
    I thought it looked a bit oversized too, but those new pics change my mind. Great looking bass!
  25. Metalhead28
    Well, it has to be raised high enough that the strings get progressively farther from the frets (not parallel to the board as you describe), and at that point, unless your frets are not level, they should not fret out higher up the neck. What would you consider a good action at the 12th fret?
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