dpm99

DarkAvenger - Is that sort of the same as this? http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/PMT-VTREB/V-Treb-Variable-Treble-Bleed-Circuit-For-Guitar-Bass.html I installed one of those on a guitar, and like it very much. Incidentally, they have a lot of creative electronological stuff on that site.

This isn't new, but it might as well be. Consider a high-pass filter. A typical tone knob is a low-pass filter, and for whatever reason, it's become standard to have one on a guitar. But you almost never see a high-pass filter. I'll grant that it's not as dramatic an effect, but I believe it can be quite useful. Disclaimer: I've never actually done one. I'm more and more about simple electronic controls.

It's great how votes are being split so much here. I had to stare at these for a couple of days before I could make up my mind, but finally resolved to vote for Hooglebug's Sakura Hanami. I had to go to the old standard way of thinking. It's the one I'd most want to own and play.

Do it. Martin used Stratabond successfully. If this is your guitar, build it exactly the way you want it. Lots of guitars have been built without truss rods.

Yeah...honestly I've always liked the Gibsons I've played. The necks feel good, and my first electric guitar was almost a Gibson LP Jr Special (which, in retrospect, I wish I would have bought). Instead, I got an American Deluxe Tele, which is nice, but I'm sure I'll sell someday. Like the Gibsons, I feel like a large portion of the price is printed across the headstock.

Not me.i currently own an SG standard and an Explorer and I love them both.IMO better workmanship and materials than most other production guitars of that price range...aside from Edwards and Ibanez' Japanese models Really? I don't own one, but I've heard such awful things about their build quality lately. And I guess I was thinking more about the Les Pauls, but still... http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/gibson-sg-standard-electric-guitar $1199 OR http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/parker-guitars-df522fr-maxx-fly-with-floyd-rose-electric-guitar $1199 OR http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/schecter-guitar-research-dan-donegan-ultra-signature-electric-guitar $1049 OR (and this would be my choice) http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/godin-xtsa-flame-electric-guitar $998

Anybody want to call BS?

That's what I'm talking about! I thought the resonator cone was sort of an odd choice, but that's a guitar I wouldn't kick out of bed for eating crackers!

Just a suggestion. I thought from the name that the forum would be dedicated to handmade accessories, like straps and picks and stuff. It looks like just another guitar building site. Something to think about.

Hey, we've seen stranger things.

Just remembered you're in Australia! Dang. I'm working on compound radius blocks/cauls and need a guinea pig. Shipping to Australia would probably be insane though. They're big and fairly heavy.

Be careful with plywood. You get what you pay for. Some plywoods actually use hardwood throughout, and others use hardwood veneers over softwoods. You see the latter in the big box stores.

Hey, what are you using to achieve a compound radius? I saw that on the GotM thread and wondered. I didn't see it described in this thread, but maybe I missed something.

I wonder if you could just overlay an animal skin. That would be legit.

I taper the neck on the bandsaw first, then use the fretboard itself as a template. I'm only using the bit to contour the back. I marked the entry and exit point with a pencil and then tried not to get too close. It wouldn't be hard to set up stop blocks. I just didn't. That's what I did too. The point is to get the basic shape with the router bit so the contour is similar all the way down the neck, like you'd get from a CNC. Then you refine it with your other tools. Small bites. In the future, I'll take even smaller bites, to further avoid tearout.

I thought about taking some pictures, but decided there was nothing revolutionary enough to deserve a photo. There's nothing to it though. The bit has a bearing, so you just use it like you would a template bit, using the fingerboard as a template. Clamp the neck to your workbench, face down, and set up your router rails. Does that make sense?

I'd heard of other respected builders doing it and thought I'd give it a try. I'm wondering how quickly I could do a strat neck like this if I had a template on hand. Anyway, I understand the concern. However, I don't need special tools to screw up necks. I've ruined them with everything from spokeshaves to sandpaper. So this is just a new experience. What can I say? It worked this time.

I realize it's sort of odd to review a router bit, but this is a little different, and I want to talk about the results of the technique as well. This is what we're talking about: And it's available here: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-C1191-1-22r-Roundover-Shank/dp/B0000DCZ3R/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2V8B49RGSAU2W&colid=2X6XWUI2ZPMSL The idea is to get a rough shape to your neck for the sake of consistency and saving time. Regarding the bit itself, I was surprise at it's quality for the price. These 1" radius bits can easily cost $100 or more, so for $31.95, I think it's a bargain. It comes very sharp, and there's a lot of material to the bit. It also has a replaceable bearing. The only thing I don't like about the bit is that it's not carbide tipped. I guess you get what you pay for. It performed well. I had a very small bit of tearout in one spot, and I was working with a Bubinga neck. I find I get a LOT of tearout with Bubinga, and it's best worked with sanding and grinding tools rather than cutting and carving tools. So I was pleased with the fact that I only had one little bobble, and in fairness, I was taking off a little too much at a time anyway. Regarding the technique, I think the most important thing to note is how much time it saved me. A couple simple passes on each side and I had a guitar neck. Twenty minutes or so with course sandpaper, and I was done, except for a few details at the volute and the heel. I like a really thick neck, about a full inch thick, so this seemed like a good solution. And it works as you'd expect. If I ever wear the bit out, it's likely I'll replace it with something similar, or an upgrade. Router rails and a mess of clamps are required to do this correctly. If anyone has questions, I'd be glad to help/clarify.

I'm the same way with 11's. It's the perfect amount of tension for me, and anything else messes me up.

It's an Ebay auction, right? I think you're just supposed to go there and bid sometime in the next week. It's currently at $62.77.

Personally, I'd use dynamite! Ok, seriously, there are a number of ways to go about this. Something I've always wanted to try is a fiberglass neck with carbon fiber cloth on the outside layer. On the inside, you can do anything you like. Shoot, you can put a galvanized pipe in there if you want. The trick is to do it and keep it light at the same time. If I were doing it I'd use multiple carbon fiber or steel reinforcements. Try here: http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=44 I'd put them in an appropriate hardwood, and I'd then reinforce the outside of the neck in carbon fiber sheeting, with the good West Systems epoxy resin. Then again, that would be an expensive neck. You could always go with something like this, and save yourself a lot of work: http://mosesgraphite.com/products/electric-guitar-bass-necks/

Ok, well... You probably have no intention of entering this in GotM, but for what it's worth, it would almost certainly have my vote. I can't imagine we'll see anything more significant or memorable anytime soon. Good work.

Chris/John, With all respect to the both of you, you're sort of hijacking a really cool thread. I, for one, will be likely to direct others here in the future for reference to the guitar made out of a 2X4. Maybe there's a better place for this discussion?

Well, that and the fact that it's made out of a 2X4.

This is why I never criticize anyone's work. I own the fact that I suck.