Mickguard

What about this idea: instead of making a 12-string guitar, is it possible to just double up the top 2 strings? That would give some of the jangle n' chime of a 12-string, without the tuning hassles and the issues with neck strength...(one could always use lighter strings for the top end). Seems like it would be easy enough to add an extra notch to a TOM saddle for example. Adding an extra notch for the nut wouldn't be too tough either. The only difficult part might be fitting extra tuners to the headstock-- but not impossible... Hmm... I just happen to have an extra guitar lying around here...

Couldn't he scallop the fretboard?

Anyways... I have a way around the finish issues on this guitar...since the worst of the problem are on the sides of the guitar, I'm going to add some pinstriping over the sides --my wife's an architect/city planner, she came home with a huge pack of ruboff lettering and pinstriping... I'm thinking of using a large font to spell out 'Bocaster' on the top side ...the lettering will end up covering most of the cracks. I might add a second Bocaster on the bottom side, but that might get a bit busy... I'm going to keep the lines that 'reveal' the truth of this guitar --that I'd cut up an existing guitar to make it...

Yep, I definitely learned a lesson here. I'm going to have to look around for some proper sealer...the stuff I bought didn't do the job...does Stewmac ship this overseas? I can live with the problems on this guitar __the front of the guitar looks pretty good, the cracks and other issues are on the side and back. And you can only see them from way up close... I'm going to move ahead with my clear coat --I want to start playing this guitar! I already have the next bocaster lined up --I'm going to try to get it 'right' the next time. And then I can refinish this one when the time comes. I'm tempted to add arm and hip grooves, that might look cool. Next question: is there a way to prevent the alder from cracking like this?

I like the back of the neck, the way you brought the color up...looks cool

Happy New Year one n' all...my kids wake up early...must have heard me stumble into bed... Anyway, I did my color coats yesterday. It came out really well...not a single drip or spit or smear, no orange peel either. I'm really pleased, considering I've never tried this before. (I'm using automotive rattle cans) I have a couple of issues. They're pretty minor to me, but I'd like your advice: In order to make the Bocaster, I cut and reglued parts of the guitar. I used a sanding sealer, then a couple of coats of primer. But you can still see--faintly-- the glue lines on the back of the guitar. Also, I let the guitar sit around for a while with its wood bare before I got around to doing the finish. As a result, it's developed a bunch of tiny cracks (it's alder, that's supposed to be normal). I was able to fill most of them ....but they're still slightyly visible. My question: is it worth doing another color coat before I move on to the clear coats? Will that cover up the marks a bit more, or do I risk ruining what is an otherwise nice looking surface? I'll put up photos soon, maybe later today... I understand what went wrong though--I used a grain filler, but I should have used the sealer that I saw in the auto shop next to the primer...it would have done a better job of it...that'll be for the next guitar...

Hey Kench, For most parts, I find ebay Germany is a good place to buy (I'm in France)...prices are usually very reasonable, and shipping isn't expensive. Dunno about luthier's supplies, but there are people selling tonewoods, etc.

What I like about this forum is that people are willing to display their projects --warts and all! If nothing else, it has helped me avoid a number of major mistakes with my own project ....(gonna do the color coat today!)

You might have used a rasp and sandpaper to clean up the routs afterward...but they'll be hidden anyway, nice for a guitar to have it secrets!

Did you look in auto supply stores? I'm pretty sure I saw a rattle can sealer/filler when buying my paints--there were two versions, one thicker, one thinner. I used a 'brush on' sealer though --actually I wiped it on using paper towels. I did two coats, sanding between coats and again before the primer. Works just fine.

How about Hi-Tone --get that rockabilly vibe in there... I really like your surf guitar too --where'd you get the Bigsby for that? (You should have one on the fatboy too, of course). I like the lipsticks too. Other question: since you're pretty handy with design, how about coming up with your OWN design for your next guitar?

Excellent point. I forgot to mention that! The string may be binding up in the nut slot. Loosen the string and make sure the slot is clean. Some people use pencil lead as a lubricant in the string slots but I use a Graphtech nut so I don't need to. Did anyone mention that he should change the strings? Chances are, if it's a used guitar, the strings haven't been changed in a long time. I like Graph Tech nuts (and saddles and string trees) too --but I have a nut here that was cut for me that STILL manages to bind on the G string...in other words, I won't be taking my guitars to that tech anymore...

Not necessarily true....seems like most luthery suppliers here get their stuff from the US anyway, so you already pay their markup on customs, etc. And delivery within Europe is sometimes more expensive than from the US. Since Turkey isn't part of the EU (yet) you're going to have to pay customs no matter where the supplies come from...

I don't know what a fanned fret guitar is, but if you start with unnotched saddles, you should be able to notch them any way you like --including adjusting the string spacing...right?

Usually there are screws. You unscrew them and lift the plate off. It often helps to take the strings off first. If the pickups and controls are mounted into the pickguard, they'll come off too...there'll probably be a ground connected to the bridge...leave that connected... If the knobs have screws, unscrew them and take them off. If they don't, pull them off (you might end up breaking them anyway on an old guitar. The pots have a nut that can be undone to remove them....etc. etc. When unconnecting the pickup wires --I usually cut the wires themselves, about an inch or so from the pots. That way it's easier to reconnect the wires (you don't have to solder directly onto the pot and risk damaging it). I also label the wires so I know which pickup goes where. It's not as delicate a process as you think. Just use ordinary care, that's all.

First off, this is what I'm installing on my Bocasters: Graph Tech String Trees I like 'em cause they're cheap and slippery. I also usually use Graph Tech nuts and saddles. (No, I don't work for the company!) As for placement-- if you look at the various Fender guitars over the years, they move the string trees around a lot --that is, closer or farther from the tuners. But they always seem to rest in a straight line between the nut slot and the tuner. Which makes sense. ...

I'm planning on putting a Bigsby B5 clone on the tele clone that'll be converted into my next Bocaster (the Thinline). The existing bridge is set up for top mounted strings. I'm looking for a way to feed the strings from the bigsby through the existing holes. The idea I've come up with so far: I've got a kitchen spatula here with a teflon-like plastic blade. I'm thinking I can cut a strip out of that then drill holes to match the string guides on the back of the tele plate. I'll then add three holes for the saddle screws and these will hold the plastic strip in place. This way the strings will rise up off the Bigsby's roller and pass through the plastic--without touching the metal of the bridge plate. The strings can rub against the plastic instead. (And I'm no dive bomber, at the most, I only want the bigsby for the 'shimmer') An alternative would be to do the same thing, except I could drill holes lower down on the tele plate --that way I could increase the string angle to be more like a string-through tele So can anyone tell me why it won't work? (Later that same day...) I went ahead and cut out (very crudely) the piece of teflon/plastic and drilled the holes...can't see any reason why it won't work. I made the string guides in the plastic a bit smaller than the guides in the bridge, so the strings shouldn't rub against the metal at all.... Tomorrow I plan on drilling the holes to attach the bigsby to the guitar? I'll see about posting a photo.

You can also think about picking up an Asian clone --the full guitar for less...I have two tele clones here, the necks are great --all you have to do is clean up the frets a bit. Then you can sell off the rest of the parts, you'll end up getting most of your money back.

That is not enough protection for spraying the K36 or any other isocyanate based paint. In other words BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the heads up. You're right, you can't be too careful with this stuff. Anyway, I'm not using K36, though, that's the other guy ;-D ...I'm using normal rattle cans...and even though I'm using a respirator (with filters rated for this usage), I'm not taking any chances...I spend very little time in there with the paints (in other words, I'm doing fast thin coats then running away...). I'm also heavily covered in clothing, gloves, even eye protection. I'm not about to sacrifice my health for a guitar...

Sorry, just got to say it...this forum rocks! I'm groping my way through my first project, and thanks to everyone here I might not make a complete mess of it. Just answered a bunch of questions using the search feature. Hope I'll one day be able to help as many people as have already helped me (don't say that one too fast). Okay, enough gushing.

Hey Algee....see my avatar! I have a vintage white here --well, it's close to that. It's equivalent to Chrysler's 'White', kind of a cream color. Except I'm using a black pickguard (well you've seen the dress rehearsal photo). And the fretboard's rosewood. Maiden: thanks for the tips! The clear coat can says to to get the new coats on within half an hour...(it's acrylic, if that helps). I'm probably doing it all wrong though-- I'm doing the headstock right now, and yesterday I did the equivalent of three or four 'powder' coats .... So today I'm going to do a couple of medium-wet coats on top of that. I wanted the first coats to dry first in order to fix down the logo. I'm finding that with the powder coats, I'm not having an drip or spit issues....yet! I'm also working with things horizontal so far (that's going to be harder with the body of course)

Hey jeff, Thanks for the heads up...clears up a lot of my questions! Or almost-- will EVERY primer act as a sealer? All I have right now is automotive primer (same brand as the color and clear coats I'll be using). (I'm going to start a new thread with this question) Obviously I'm not going to invest in a lot of expensive gear-- I'm only finishing two guitars! I did however buy a good respirator mask with filters and I'm really glad I did. Cost me 30 euros. I have a large old garage to work in. It's not dust free by any means, so what I've done is rig up a 'booth' of sorts ...Basically a couple of ladders boxed in and wrapped with a large sheet of plastic ...seems to work okay...so far with the tests I've done and the spraying I've done to my headstocks, they come out pretty clean. I'm not going to rival a professional job, of course...I'm going for a two-meter 'foolability' level... (in other words, someone looking from a couple yards away will think it's a commercial guitar)...

Hi, Just curious...by why not have a new pickguard cut for you (or cut it yourself?). By the time you get done buying the paints and the sandpaper and all, you'll have spent just as much... I think the red pickguard on the black guitar is a great idea, by the way...you going to paint the pickups too? mickey

Hi, I'm just getting started finishing a guitar for the first time. I'm using auto spray (primer, color coat, clear) in rattle cans. I'm wondering what you mean by 'builds fast' ? Could you describe the process you're using? I'm a bit confused about how to proceed, I've read through the Reranch site, and the StewMac trade secrets and others, but I'm still trying to figure things out... So far I've done a couple of coats of sealer. I'll sand the second one tomorrow, then I want to do the primer. Then I sand the primer, right? What grit do you use for that? And what grit do you use for the color coat? Thanks for any tips! Mickey

Nice touch putting her name on the headstock...I think this is going to be one happy (gloomy?) kid...