fishgiven

Laughing out loud and wishing I had thought of the last comment. I'd like to see the end result, should be cool!

Good job Dave. I am a regular at the OFC and your repair was done straight on! I think the most difficult part is to match the bowl paint texture. For future reference Ovation/Hamer has an outstanding Customer Service. Here is my POC: John Budny Customer Service Manager Ovation Instruments 37 Greenwoods Rd New Hartford, CT 06057 860-379-7575 Ext 120 800-552-4681 fax 860-738-3495 The Center hole models don't have the access hole in the back that the "Elite" or multihole units do. Access can be an issue but nothing compared to trying to put electronics into a Tacoma Papoose! Early bowls were fiberglass, then Lyrachord and now the Lyrachord GS. Repairs are similar and incorporate a fibre/binder with an epoxy. I have used the bumper repair/patch kits sold in Auto Parts stores. I see you had some OFC help here too. People helping each other, love it! Mike W aka MWoody on the OFC

Have you considered a Pure Tung Oil or True Oil finish. Very organic and will provide a mat finish.

Here is a project of mine I've posted on Ebay. The BIN is priced a little high since I'm trying to get a feel for what a modified guitar can get. Personnaly its a pleasure to play and it puts out some interesting sound combinations. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Has anyone done something similar?

No skunk, cut the paddle (not enough) and the grain of the Koa is not so straight, especially to the bass side. The faux grain of the body slants in the opposing direction. Overall its centered but this shot seems more "off".

I got as far as stringing it up last night, setting relief and the bridge. Tonight I retuned. No big issues but I need to let it stabalize and then spend some time setting it up. Great tutorial on set up btw. I need to be patient, especially before I attempt filing the nut. I'd hate to screw it up. The nut is probaly just fine. I like the woodsy tones i my instruments. I just need to learn how to play them!

Too true. I didn't want "another Fender" like everyone else and I should gone a bit bolder with the shape. Anyway, my purpose here was to thank Brian and the Forum for doing some great networking and allowing frustrated Woodworkers like me to have an outlet and a place to get supplies without the fear of being taken. Thanks!

As I tread lightly in uncharted waters... I wanted to see what putting a Part-o-Caster would be like. The Neck is from Brian in this Forum's Sale area. Enjoy!

It is a Schaller designed to replace the earlier Bridges on th eO solids. Basically a "Gibson" style with a little bit of a fanny. I like to use those for a cleaner look. Totally adjustable for us obsessive compulsives!

On Fleabay I have one of the cleanest guitars I have ever had the pleasure to refresh. It's an Ovation Viper with a Maple body, neck and fretboard. Some of my updates are the Koa veneer PG and TRC. This is a clean fast player! Do you know anybody that is tired of playing what everybody is playing? fishgiven's Viper on Ebay Make an offer!

It is in and I ran parrellel to go with my personal habits of play. I run the piezo out to a Fender acoustasonic DSP and the Twin Blade through a Digitech RP 300. Now I just need to learn how to play guitar! Actually, it adds a nice set of options to the mix. I can get a fairly acoustic sound with the LR Baggs.

"I prefer not to solder to the back of pots. I solder a bare wire to a washer which goes over the pot shaft and gets clamped between pot and pickguard. This wire then loops back to the ground lug on the pot, and all other grounds attach to it. It saves having to heat up a pot case sufficiently to melt solder. John" I have a small drawer full of spare/new rings and washers for Pots. I will try something like that on the next Project! Thank you Al Gore for inventing plagarism and the Internet! You shoulda won!

The candidates to date are the LR Baggs TOM with the Control X and a TV Jones Classic in the Bridge position. Then I just need to learn how to play...

Having just asked about use of the Tunamatic Piezo bridge I found this topic and it has me jazzed! I would take a separate approach to this by using the piezo out and working on the modeling or processing externally. A separation of alternate strings for a stereo output would work well too.

Have any of you had any experience with the "T Bridge"? Specifically Stewmac LR Baggs T Bridge I am consider trying a solid Mahogany body guitar with just this style or a possible mix.